So after getting my Letter of Invitation, my Uzbekistan Visa and negotiating my way out of Tajikistan and through the ridiculously strict and thorough Uzbek border control points (give us a break lads), I made my way to Samarkand City. Worse for wear, feeling love for only Bishkek, Khorog and Tashkent, somehow my opinion changed a bit on arrival here.
Despite the dusty charmed of the town of Denau, I got on my way to dreamy Samarkand City, charm of Central Asia. On this leg of my journey, I was really tired and wanted a good base – the previous two weeks of travel had been crazy! I found a great option here in Samarkand with Jahongir Bed and Breakfast and checked in for a couple of nights. Here is what I loved about my stay here.
The winter sun sparkled into the morning courtyard, taking with it the remainder of the snow. It’s a relaxed and tranquil courtyard here. In summer it is a hive of activity however I was delighted that on my two nights here, I was the only tourist. I actually loved the peace and freedom of it.
Hold on a minute? I have working WiFi in my bedroom? Yes – here I did. Albeit sometimes limited, at least I could get online and reply to e-mails during my 3 week wilderness stint in villages so remote Gengis Khan and Alexander the Great gave them a by-ball.
The only thing was I was busy out doing tours and planning my route to Afghanistan and Termiz that I was so busy to even get my e-mails answered.
Cooked up and served with a smile and to perfection each morning I got a decent breakfast here. Fruit as a standard, a choice of tea or coffee. Apricot pancakes, bread, cheese, meat and a changing main dish – sometimes it was egg, sometimes like a porridge.
Out of all the budget B and Bs and Hotels in Samarkand City, this one is the closest to the Registan Madressa hat-trick so get it booked. You can tour the city easily on foot from here. It’s also very close to the Amir Temur Mausoleum.
The Jahnogir Bed and Breakfast is run by Odil and Zafar, a local Uzbek family. They are great people to chat to, they’ll give you a map of the city and tell you the best sights to check out. All in all this was a lovely place for two nights in Samarkand, I also did some touring in Samarkand with Marco Polo Tours which I’ll write more about.
Here are the contact details for Jahongir Bed and Breakfast:
Chirokchi 4, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Tel/Fax: +998 66 235 78 99 (mobile) +998 91 555 08 08
E-mail: [email protected]
Here are some videos of my time in the Jahongir Guest House in Samarkand City: