Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At The Famous La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

“Slight return” – The Bluetones.

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At The Famous La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

In December 2024, I found myself back in Benin! Benin is a wild one, with Cotonou being the country’s biggest city, the beast yet not even the capital. 2024 saw my second trip to Benin, this time for Christmas. On both trips, I based myself in Cotonou, on both trips I travelled with a Polish comrade. In 2018, I was here backpacking with Malina. Here in 2024, 6 years later I was here backpacking with Marek.

Malina and I on zemi-johns (shared motorbikes)!

Malina and I on zemi-johns (shared motorbikes) in Benin in 2018

Marek and I having beers in The Livingstone, Benin (2024)

Although I did visit Porto Novo, the capital city back in 2018. On the first trip, I double land-bordered the brace of Benin and Togo, including backpacking the sights of Lome and heading to Togoville. This time, it was more calm, it was simply Christmas in Benin. We flew in from Lome, Togo of all places though, just to add that sentiment into the mix.

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At The Famous La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

On my first trip here to Cotonou in Benin, we stayed in the city’s Haie Vive district, somewhat of a pumping party zone at night with a string of bars. I certainly enjoyed my time in Haie Vive in 2018, and here in 2024 we made a pleasant return there with lunch in the famous The Livingstone Bar, again. It appeared in my original Best Bars in Benin Thirsty Thursdays post.

The Livingstone, Haie Vive, Cotonou (2018)

Le Livingstone, Haie Vive, Cotonou (2018)

It was a complete De ja vu – we drank beer and ate pizza again. Both times, we even sat at the same table even, how wild! This was actually a coincidence, I didn’t check the photos or the table in 2024. Only after my trip, did I really the madness of that! Look at the pillar behind our tables in both photos – the same one!

The Livingstone, Haie Vive, Cotonou (2018)

The Livingstone, Haie Vive, Cotonou (2018)

The Livingstone, Haie Vive, Cotonou (2018)

However, some things changed. On this return, I decided to sleep at La Guesthouse Etoile, I simply had to. It’s a stalwart in Benin’s backpacking repertoire and sits nicely near the red star roundabout – Etoile Rouge. It is a well known backpacker’s hub, one of the famous spots to  rest yer head in, and really the best place to stay in the city of Cotonou, outside of the Haie Vive district. It translates as The Star Guesthouse.

Etoile Rouge – Red Star Roundabout near Guesthouse Etoile

Our hosts Cedric and Masson welcomed us on a calm Cotonou Christmas Eve Eve, by that I mean the 23rd December!

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

We had a twin room, with a fan, good WiFi and a shower room.

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Of course to keep those dreaded mosquitoes at bay, we both had insect nets over our beds. An essential element when backpacking Africa.

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Breakfast was included and served at 7.30 a.m. both days for Marek and I.

Breakfast At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Breakfast At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Breakfast At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

There is a cosy quiet garden for blogging, writing, drinking, chatting and eating in. We met 3 ladies from Belgium here and 2 French guys. This is what the courtyard and garden area looks like.

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Beer, drinks and food are all available here in La Guesthouse Etoile, although we also enjoyed a few of the bars and cafes in the city, including one just a few doors up.

A local Benin beer

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

We also had an excellent “Wigilia” here, Christmas Eve Supper which was prepared for Marek. The Belgian ladies had gone so we enjoyed it with Masson our host.

“Wigilia” here, Christmas Eve Supper at La Guesthouse Etoile with Masson

“Wigilia” here, Christmas Eve Supper at La Guesthouse Etoile with Masson

“Wigilia” here, Christmas Eve Supper at La Guesthouse Etoile with Masson

“Wigilia” here, Christmas Eve Supper at La Guesthouse Etoile with Masson

“Wigilia” here, a Christmas Eve drink at the bar down the street

 

La Guesthouse Etoile is located near the Red Star Roundabout (Place De L’Etoile Rouge), one of the sights to check out and a good place to get your bearings when backpacking in Cotonou.

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Backpacking in Benin🇧🇯: Sleeping At La Guesthouse Etoile, Cotonou

Here are a few more photos from my return to Benin in 2024. It’s actually a really nice country, so I wouldn’t rule out a third visit. I certainly didn’t close the door on Benin.

Backpacking in Benin: The Woman King statue, built with help from North Korea

Our street in Benin

Back in the Atlantic Ocean in Benin

At the lake by Calavi Kpota where boats leave for Ganvie

Cheap backpackers – our milk and sandwiches for the onward journey

Traffic in Cotonou

The Voodoo Market in Cotonou

The Main Market in Cotonou

The Main Market in Cotonou

Here are the details for booking a stay at La Guesthouse Etoile in Cotonou, Benin:

Address: 

bp 2141, Cotonou, Benin
Page · Hotel resort
Place de l’étoile rouge Pharmacie Alafia, Cotonou, Benin
+229 67 34 64 77


Here are some videos of my stay at La Guesthouse Etoile in Cotonou, Benin:

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