“Go West, life is peaceful there” – Pet Shop Boys.

In December 2024, Marek Bladowski and I had a wild dream to backpack to the western most point of Saharan Africa. What even is that? Is there even a point where such a place exists and publicises itself? We dream up the wild things. Life ain’t a bowl of cherries, even though footballically, mine often is…life was never supposed to be mundane, banal or boring. This was an adventure befitting even the ardent double decadic backpacker. No syndrome of boredom was ever found on Don’t Stop Living.

“When I met you at university Jonny, I just knew you’d never be part of anything boring” – Sandy Dhaliwal.

“I think I’m too boring to date you Jonny” – Noemi Linzenbold*.

* wrong. I fell madly in love with her.

Boring and boredom won’t come into it here as we checked how to whackpack Spanish Sahara, Western Sahara, Morocco and Mauritania all on the one peninsula. After research however, it was clear that Senegal has the most Western point of mainland Africa. In fact in Senegal, it is the western most point of Afro-Eurasia! Yes, the most western point of three continents that touch – Asia, Europe and Africa! And that is in Dakar, the capital city. I’ve been to Senegal five times and stupidly not once have I done the western tip.

Sadly and oddly I unbackpacked that western tip by mistake in 2016. That was on a no backpack challenge, a lost luggage challenge. I stayed just a few kilometres from that point in 2016 when I slept at the excellent Maison Abaka at Plage N’gor, Dakar, Senegal. I dined out at the excellent Black and White Bar on N’Gor beach and yet I was so close to the western tip and didn’t even know it was there. Oops!

However, Senegal is not Saharan Africa and to have Marek’s 2024 birthday in the Sahara was a nuts idea. Getting here was a wild one so so typical of my barmy life. We flew Poland to Milan and did the square where Benito Mussolini was hung out to dry. Pizza and craft beers later, then we flew to Tunis where I got sentimental and returned to Brasserie Des Avenues Deux at the El Hana Hotel. That’s because 9.5 years earlier, I had beered here Panny Yu and Ayoub to celebrate my 100th country. Nuts loyal. I’m fool circles on the brain.

“The sink is full of fishes, she’s got dirty dishes on the brain” – Noel Gallagher.

After repeatpacking Tunisia Away, we had a direct flight to Nouakchott in Mauritania – the flight was delayed which was actually epic as Marek and I could drink extra red wine at Tunis Carthage International Airport to celebrate his birthday. Mauritania, the Islamic Republic is a dry state.

Although the departure time was 21:30, we’d finally leave around 1 a.m. the following day.

The flight included a decent meal and we finished the red wine on the flight as well as nabbing a gin and tonic which I bought at the sirport, knowing we’d be alcohol free for the next 5 days.

We were now in Mauritania! And then after researching, I realised that Cap Blanc, this little less ventured peninsula has a glorious title – here at Cappy B is the western most tip of Saharan Africa. Boom.

“A boom boom boom a let me hear you say way o!” – The Outhere Brothers.

This was a no brainer. As the sun rose over Mauritanian Sahara, we simply had to go here. You’ll never know how many doors can open on your personal life’s corridor. I was willing to ensure this one would be opened. It wasnt going to go astray or amiss like Senegal had done. Focus on the goal.

“Don’t take your eyes from the prize” – Dodgy.

Although Cap Blanc is not the westernmost point of Africa as Senegal nabbed that, due to the Earth’s tilt it is at least twice a year the last place in Africa where the sun sets! The name of the place is a peninsula known as Cap Blanc. White Cape. I’m in. We’re in.

“Tonight I’m gonna live for today so come along for the ride” – Robbie Williams.

Where Is Cap Blanc?

The short answer is western Africa. The real answer is a political enigma dished up to perfection by the Spanish, the French, the Moroccans, the Arabs and seriously the natives, the locals. Cap Blanc is their peninsula, not yours or mine. So yes, the short answer is western Africa. Atlases don’t lie.

“People don’t change that much” – Scott Callen.

History hasn’t been kind to Africa.

Colonisation, slavery, infrastructure issues, fake promises all lent their desperate souls to this, the world’s wildest continent outside Antarctica.

You see, Cap Blanc is a French name but this ain’t France. It would mean White Cape or White Point in English. There’s a lot of history to take in here.

What Is Spanish Sahara? 🇪🇸

Good question, and I did a bit of digging and separated it into sections here…

Unravelling the History of the Spanish Sahara: A Journey Through Time

The Spanish Sahara, now known as Western Sahara, is a region steeped in history, complex politics, and a long struggle for identity. Officially named the Spanish Possessions in the Sahara from 1884 to 1958, and later rebranded as the Province of the Sahara until 1976, this territory represented one of Spain’s final remnants of its once-expansive empire, which had stretched from the Americas to Asia. It makes some kind of Geographical sense given that the Canary Isles are still Spanish and off the coast nearby – in fact I backpacked Fuerteventura and Gran Canaria on my first ever trip to Mauritania in 2022. Plus you can backpack the EU in Morocco by visiting Ceuta and Melila, both part of Spain in Africa.

From Colony to Province

Spain’s presence in the Sahara began in 1884, marking its claim over the territory that would later become Western Sahara. Initially grouped with other Spanish-controlled regions like Cape Juby and Ifni, these areas were merged in 1946 to form the colony of Spanish West Africa. However, geopolitical tensions, particularly the Ifni War (1957-1958), led to a reversal of this union. Cape Juby was handed over to Morocco as part of a peace agreement, while Spanish Sahara and Ifni became separate provinces under Spanish governance.

The Road to Decolonization

The winds of change began sweeping through the region in the mid-20th century. Spain faced mounting pressure on multiple fronts, especially in the later years of Franco, who died in 1975. Internationally, the United Nations strongly advocated for decolonization, echoing global calls for self-determination. At the same time, the native Sahrawi population, led by the Polisario Front, intensified their fight for independence. Adding to the complexity were territorial claims from Morocco and Mauritania. Morocco, having gained independence in 1956, argued that the Spanish Sahara was historically part of its pre-colonial territory. Mauritania, too, staked a claim, citing its own historical ties to the region.

Spain’s Exit and a New Chapter

Ultimately, Spain relinquished control in 1976, no surprises it was after Franco’s death – bowing to international demands, Moroccan ambitions, and local resistance. The withdrawal marked the end of Spain’s colonial presence but left the region embroiled in territorial disputes that persist to this day. It’s a geographical enigma even in 2025.

A Legacy of Complexity

The story of the Spanish Sahara is far from simple. It is a narrative of colonialism, resistance, and unresolved claims that continue to shape the region’s identity. As Western Sahara remains a contested territory, its history serves as a poignant reminder of the enduring impacts of imperialism and the ongoing quest for self-determination. Stay tuned as we delve deeper into the stories of resilience and the players shaping the modern face of this remarkable region.

What Is Western Sahara? 🇪🇭

Tiris al-Gharbiyya or ‘Western Tiris’ was the name for the area of Western Sahara under Mauritanian control between 1975 and 1979. After that, Morocco claim it but it is still debated. Before that, Spain claimed it and governed it. It’s all a bit wild. When I backpacked Western Sahara in 2017, I crossed the border from Morocco and stayed at Hotel Jodesa in El Aiaun the capital city. I personally count Western Sahara as a real country.

Western Sahara is a vast and contested land of approximately 272,000 square kilometers (105,000 square miles). Despite its size, it is one of the most sparsely populated territories in the world, with vast desert plains making up much of its landscape. Home to an estimated 618,600 people, nearly 40% reside in Laayoune/El-Aaiún, the region’s largest city, controlled by Morocco.

A Land Divided

Today, Western Sahara remains deeply divided. Around 70% of the territory, including key cities and natural resources, is occupied and administered by Morocco. The remaining 30% is under the control of the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR), backed by Algeria, which governs its portion of the territory from exile. This division reflects a broader struggle over sovereignty, with the SADR claiming rightful ownership and the United Nations recognizing the Sahrawi people’s right to self-determination.

Colonial Roots and the Path to Dispute

Western Sahara’s colonial history began with Spain, which controlled the area as Spanish Sahara until 1975. The United Nations first flagged the territory for decolonization in 1963, following demands from Morocco. Over the next decade, pressure mounted, with UN resolutions urging Spain to hold a referendum on self-determination. In 1976, Spain relinquished administrative control to a joint administration involving Morocco and Mauritania. This arrangement quickly unraveled as the Sahrawi nationalist movement, the Polisario Front, resisted, proclaiming itself the legitimate representative of the Sahrawi people and establishing the SADR. After years of conflict, Mauritania withdrew in 1979, leaving Morocco with de facto control over most of the territory. The mural below shows this – I took that photo in El-Aiaun, Western Sahara.

The Ongoing Struggle for Independence

The UN has consistently recognized the Polisario Front as the legitimate representative of the Sahrawi people and has upheld their right to self-determination. Yet, Western Sahara remains a colonial remnant, often referred to as “Africa’s last colony.” A UN-brokered ceasefire in 1991 brought an end to active conflict but left the issue unresolved. Morocco administers most of the territory with support from allies like France and the United States, while the SADR retains control of the sparsely populated eastern areas. Efforts to resolve the dispute have included attempts to gather international recognition. To date, the SADR has been formally recognized by 46 UN member states, has joined the African Union, and continues to lobby for broader support.

A Region in Stalemate

The fate of Western Sahara remains uncertain. Countries like Russia adopt a neutral stance, urging peaceful resolutions. Meanwhile, Morocco and the Polisario Front continue their diplomatic battle for legitimacy, particularly in the developing world.

As international pressure ebbs and flows, Western Sahara stands as a stark reminder of unfinished colonial histories and the enduring fight for self-determination. Whether through diplomacy or a referendum, the question remains: will Western Sahara ever achieve full independence?

What Is Morocco? 🇲🇦

You’ll probably know this one. It’s either the Western Sahara bit plus the main Morocco bit, or it’s just the northern bit. Most of the population of Morocco live in the north – those cities are massive – Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh and Agadir.

Now that political enigmation is out of the way, let’s focus on the tourism here – here goes a long one…

Getting To Cap Blanc ⚪️👇

Cap Blanc is the peninsula to the west of the city of Nouadhibou in Mauritania. So for this adventure, we based ourselves in Nouadhibou. It was my second time in Nouadhibou. I first came here in July 2022, flying into Mauritania after my Canary Islands debut at Fuerteventura and Gran Canaria, where I felt where I all began.

On that trip, I arrived into Nouadhibou by the world’s longest train, the famous iron ore train through the Sahara Desert 🏜 which started in the desert village of Choum. On that trip I backpacked it alone.

This time, in December 2024, I was backpacking in Mauritania with Marek Bladowski. We had plans to get a double entry Mauritania Visa and cross in and out of Western Sahara. However, on arrival at Nouakchott International Airport, they totally refused our requests for multiple entry visas. Instead we got a single entry Mauritania Visa on Arrival! It was a shock as we had originally planned to do the deep Sahara desert again at Chinguetti.

We based ourselves in Nouadhibou anyway and stayed in a quiet chill out backpacker’s retreat called Villa Maguela. While there, we met a mix of Mauritanians, Ghanaians, Italians, Germans, Australians, French and Greek. We backpacked the sights of Nouadhibou with Kai, from Germany, who also joined us for coffee in the city’s Spanish Restaurant (and I skipped lunch there in protest!).

Kai also joined us for the Cap Blanc adventure. I should mention that locally it is known by Mauritanians as Ras Nouadhibou.

Short History Of Cap Blanc / Ras Nouadhibou

Ras Nouadhibou (Arabic: رأس نواذيبو) is a 60-kilometre (37 mi) peninsula or headland divided by the border between Mauritania and Western Sahara on the African coast of the Atlantic Ocean. It is internationally known as Cabo Blanco in Spanish or Cap Blanc in French (both meaning “White Headland/ White Point”). The story of Western Sahara’s borders traces back to the late 19th century, when Spain first staked its claim. In 1885, Spain marked its territory between 20° 51′ N, near Cap Blanc, and 26° 8′ N, near Cape Bojador. By 1887, this protectorate was being administered from the Canary Islands, solidifying Spanish influence in the region.

France soon followed, laying claim to parts of Western Sahara as colonial ambitions converged. In 1900, a joint convention between France and Spain formally established the boundary, dividing the territory into Spanish Sahara and French West Africa. This agreement set the stage for the modern border that now separates Western Sahara from Mauritania. Tiris al-Gharbiyya or ‘Western Tiris’ was the name for the area of Western Sahara under Mauritanian control between 1975 and 1979 and the flag looked like this.

Today, this historic boundary remains, but the dynamics have shifted. The western side of the border is policed by Mauritania, as neither Morocco nor the Polisario Front currently occupies the area. This arrangement underscores the region’s complex colonial legacy and the continuing disputes over control and sovereignty. Western Sahara’s borders tell a story of colonial ambition, negotiation, and the enduring impact of decisions made over a century ago. These lines in the sand remain central to the region’s ongoing struggle for stability and identity.

The Entrance To Cap Blanc

Once you get to the entrance gate, two things will happen. Firstly you’ll have to pay the entry charge. It’s a national park. It’s called Reserve Satellite Du Cap Blanc.

You sadly don’t get an actual ticket.

Secondly, they’ll check your passport and the guards will take a photo of them on their phones. Passport checks in Mauritania are nuts. We had 10 stops and checks on a 7 hour minibus from Nouakchott to Nouadhibou and at 8 of those, they checked our passports. You get used to that at Mauritania Away.

The passport check here is done for an additional reason though. You’re at the border. This peninsula has two countries on it (arguably three). And since you’re unofficially walking across the sand border from Mauritania to Western Sahara, they check you. It’s also because we were entering from the Mauritania side. If you enter from the Mauritania side, you must go back to the Mauritania side. Same on the other side. If you enter from the Morocco side, then you go back through the Morocco side. Any other way, you’ll be illegal. You can see the border point on the road we drove down. At a few different points, we even veered over the border in the car through the sandy roads.

The Lighthouse At Cap Blanc

The most prominent building you’ll notice on arrival at Cap Blanc is the Lighthouse. You can’t miss it.

The Lighthouse was built in 1910 and oddly isn’t right at the tip. As it was built by Mauritania, they control this side, yet just a few metres on the other side of the lighthouse and you are suddenly at Morocco Away. Or Western Sahara. Gosh this gets confusing!

The Invisible Border At Cap Blanc

Google maps shows you a clear border here at Cap Blanc. It’s a land border and it’s a sand border. There is no fence, no barrier and no signs.

The Lighthouse was built by Mauritania so that’s a clear signal that it’s their side of the border. A few metres west of it and you’re suddenly in either Spanish Sahara, Western Sahara 🇪🇭 or Morocco 🇲🇦. It’s a political enigma of course. There is no actual Morocco or Mauritania flag here – I guess they came to an agreement not to do that, since there is no actual border post to officially cross here…well except this hint…

You decide where you are. I was at ease with all 3, but as I’d backpacked Western Sahara before, I recognise it as separate.

What Is There To Do At Cap Blanc?

Firstly admire the gorgeous views of the Atlantic Ocean. Watch the many boats coming and going, some local fishing boats, others cargo vessels.

Secondly check out the Lighthouse and you can go to the top if you wish. I didn’t need to. Then you can cross the border in your mind and compare the buildings on both sides.

There’s a ruined ghost town village here called La Guera. Nobody lives here. It’s on the Western Sahara side. There are beaches on both sides of the border, bereft of people. I didn’t swim or lie on the beach.

There is also a seal colony for endangered seal 🦭 species. There’s an information centre about that, more east and on the Mauritania side but we didn’t go in. There are also lots of information boards.

Make sure you don’t venture too far across the border as it’s technically illegal. The fact you paid money and did the passport check still doesn’t justify crossing full on into Morocco and making a run for it. There is not even a place to get a passport exit stamp for Mauritania or a passport entry stamp for Western Sahara or Morocco. We wouldn’t have done that anyway if it was an option, since we were heading back to Mauritania and would therefore have needed another entry visa! Fly the Northern Ireland flag then go back to the other side!

Organising Cap Blanc

Find a driver in town (Nouadhibou) to do it – he will drive you there, wait for you and then bring you back. We were in the Spanish Restaurant bar and we asked the staff if they knew a guide who could take us. A Spanish lady came over and she quickly found us a local driver called Omar. He’s in some of the videos. Tourism hasn’t taken off big time in Mauritania even though they think it has – and while I tried to help the locals and local tour companies, I found – they don’t really like bloggers, nor want us to help nor want to help us. Hard facts Mauritania – swallow your bitter pill. This post is mostly for other tourists just to show you how to get to Cap Blanc, this fascinating peninsula with two  countries on it that also happens to be the western most tip of Saharan Africa.

And with that, at 4,000 plus words for a very simple bit of backpacking, I’ll end this post!

Here are some videos from our trip to Cap Blanc: