Backpacking In Nevis⛱️: My Day Trip To Oualie (“Land Of Beautiful Waters”)🏝️🍹🐝

“Four in the area, Lineker!” – John Motson 1986.

When backpacking🎒in Saint Kitts 🇰🇳 And Nevis, it would be harsh to visit one island, and not the other. Sadly in my earlier backpacking days I was guilty of such idiocy…and I often skippacked the smaller islands when two in a country existed…I guess the veteran backpacker in me is aware that time is shorter now, and the world won’t wait.

“I can’t sleep, cos the world won’t wait” – Noel Gallagher.

I backpacked Trinidad; but not Tobago.
I backpacked Antigua; but not Barbuda.
I backpacked Saint Vincent but not The Grenadines.
I backpacked Singapore four times; but never Sentosa.

I didn’t want to skip Nevis (originally called Oualie – “Land Of Beautiful Waters”), but I also didn’t feel the need to spend a night here either, so I decided to daytrip Nevis from my base at Basseterre in Saint Kitts. It’s an easy ferry crossing not dissimilar to Guernsey to Herm or Guernsey to Sark back in my Channel Islands backpacking days…

The boat here is easy to organise – you can do it on the day, just before the boat leaves. I checked there were no massive events or festivals one (except the World Cup!) and knew this wouldn’t be oversubscribed. The Saint Kitts and Nevis visa covers both islands and neither the passport nor the visa are checked on the way to Charlestown, Nevis. Here was my journey and day out.

Saint Kitts To Nevis – Basseterre to Charlestown

Essentially here, both Saint Kitts and Nevis are the same country but separate islands. I headed to the ferry terminal in Basseterre at 9.00 a.m. The next boat was at 10.00 a.m. so I booked a ticket one way for 30 East Caribbean Dollars. I grabbed some Lucozade and was excited at seahopping the Caribbean again.

Rather than book a return, I decided just to book a one way ticket. You never know in life. Maybe I’d end up kipping on a beach at Nevis away. I planned to get the last boat back to Basseterre.

The boat had no outside deck and was a fast journey of about 35 minutes. Splashing waves and nice views, everything a seaboy like me loves in fairness – brilliant journey.

Arrival On Nevis

Arrival on the island of Nevis was smooth, simple and standard. It reminded me slightly of Sark and Herm all over again, 17 years later and I couldn’t fathom why – maybe because it was a short pleasant crossing and a textbook clockwork. My boat arrived into Charlestown, the capital of Nevis with a WELCOME TO NEVIS sign. There didn’t appear to be any other tourists on my boat, just locals. The journey is often like that on this ball, I got used to it as a fake crane pretended to reel in some cargo from the harbourside.

I only had a day here on the island of Nevis, and would do everything on foot backpacking. I didn’t want or need to venture far – no taxis, no faffing around for me nowadaya. Besides the World Cup was kicking off at 2 p.m. so I’d want to be in a bar by Pinney’s Beach for that – that day was The Democratic Republic Of The Congo against England. I arrived on Nevis around 10.34 a.m. and the arrival harbour bar was open and sold the local Nevis Beer…

Things I Did On Nevis…

Instead of an old boring “Top X Sights When Backpacking Nevis”, I am just going to tell you what I did on Nevis. That’s all…this is my travel blog remember, no generic excrement from fake tourists.

1.I Tried The Nevis Peak Brewery Beer at Pas Bar

My first stop was for the local beer actually. You never know when a chance of something is gone. I had an ambition to try the only local beer brewed here and when I spied that Pas Bar had it, I was straight in. It is made by Nevis Peak Brewery, is a sunrise premium lager and was 8 East Caribbean Dollars, which is £2.18 in Northern Irish pounds.

As I sipped this in the morning sun (not even 11 a.m.) I realised a freak with Gary Lineker. I had bruised and cut my arm the night before (a short story involving a beer stool and a mosquito whilst watching the Mexico match) and it was slightly painful so that morning instead of getting the 9 a.m. ferry, I went to the chemist in Basseterre for…

• insect spray (oops I had forgotten it the night before)
• bandages (to cover up)
• Lucozade (energy boost and my favourite fizzy drink)

When I covered the cut/bruise with the bandage I reminded myself of “4 in the area Lineker!”, it was the commentator’s quote from the 1986 World Cup when England, who had scored no goals in their first two matches and were on the brink of elimination played Gary Lineker with an injured arm in a bandage…Of course he scored a hat-trick in the final group match with Poland (a 3 zip win) and the rest was history…

4 in the area Lineker! Gary Lineker sports a bandaged arm in 1986. 40 years later so did I…and by chance there was an England World Cup match that day on in the bar. I couldn’t believe I had watched the hat-trick 30 years earlier.

The beer chilled me out, I updated my travel diary and plotted my route on Nevis up to Pinney’s Beach for the football and then back to Charlestown.

2.I Had Coffee In The Famous Cafe Des Artes

I heard about a famous cafe called The Cafe Des Artes run by a Guyanese family so I headed here for a coffee next. It’s near the harbour and the Museum of Nevis History.

The Cafe Des Artes had also had Wi-Fi and a pretty garden. Surprisingly though, the coffee was 12 ECD, so 150% of the price of the local beer at the previous bar! At that point, I knew when I got to the football pub after my backpacking, I’d be back on the cold stuff…

Oh and The Cafe Des Artes also reminded me of that girl again, it was coming up to our anniversary…and they had 5 DEADLY terms by a woman hanging up above me.

“Love remains the drug that’s the high; not the pill” – Seal.

3.I Learnt About Alexander Hamilton, Slavery And Immigration

The two main museums are next to each other in the park by the cannons at the harbour. The entrance ticket includes entry to both buildings. Slavery in Nevis was a brutal thing of course. Here you learn that it was USA Statesman Alexander Hamilton (1757 – 1804) who sought to abolish slavery here and was himself born out of wedlock in the very building you backpack through. His statue stands outside. Get deep into his life here – you could spend hours in here.

4.I Toured The National History Museum And Hamilton House

History doesn’t wane when independence arrives on such shores. In 1983, Saint Kitts and Nevis became a truly independent country, seceded from “The UK” but remained as a Commonwealth State. Anguilla which was once part of it remained tied to The UK. Long before all that, Christopher Columbus was here in 1493. He gave it the name SAINT CHRISTOPHER, so actually he named the country. The island of Saint Kitts was originally called Liamuiga, whilst Nevis was originally called Oualie (land of beautiful waters).

Another interesting fact here is that famous British Sailor Horatio Nelson once married a local girl here on Nevis. Her name was Fanny Nisbet and in fact, Nelson lost at the battle of Trafalgar and drew me all the way back to “Traffy’s Q” as I used to call it – Trafalgar Square where Nelson’s Column is the lasting tribute to that man.

There is a souvenir shop in Hamilton House, the smaller building of the two. I posed calmly by his statue with my Northern Ireland flag.

5.I Backpacked Along The Coast

For me, it was a hot day. For the locals, maybe the cloudy sky made it cooler than the normal for them. Either way, I decided to backpack along the coast from Charlestown to Pinney’s Beach. A taxi driver did stop me and was surprised I preferred to backpack. I took his card though, as he was a decent lad just trying to make business out of a tour. His card is below in case anyone needs a taxi or a guide.

6.I Backpacked Pinney’s Beach

When the locals started telling me about “PENIS beach” I thought it might be one to avoid, like a gay nudist beach or something. Then I realised it was their ACCENT. They were pronouncing the word “Pinney’s Beach” like “Penis Beach”. I was convinced this beach would be decent then…and it sure was. Golden sands on the island of beautiful waters was correct.

Not a soul in sight, so instead of backpacking along the roads, I made the rest of my trip along the beach. On the photo below if might look like I backpacked a long way, but I didn’t – Nevis is small. I only backpacked north for 3 kilometres then kick-off time was coming in the World Cup match.

7.I Drank At Turtle Time By Pinneys Beach

Pinney’s beach was quiet and hot. I met two English girls there who were swimming then sunbathing and they directed me to the nearest bar – the ones in front of that were closed and downtrodden. I ended up in a bar called Turtle Time…

Weirdly my phone photos from here all disappeared for the next 4 hours except a few (ridiculous given that I used to travel with a digital camera until 2022). I remember my phone resetting and syncing. It is a pity as I had fun here watching the football then trying a special cocktail in Sunshine’s but oh well. I was really there just only my memory as proof!

8.I Watched England Come Back To Beat The Democratic Republic Of The Congo 🇨🇩

When I got to the bar district by Pinney’s Beach, I saw that all of them were showing the football – England v Democratic Republic Of The Congo. There was a crowd around the bar at Turtle Time so I headed in and ordered up a beer then a Bloody Mary.

I got talking to the guys in here – a mix of Brentford, Everton, Luton Town and Chelsea fans. I was wearing an AFC Bournemouth shirt but as I explained to them all I don’t support England, nor care too much. I clearly got talking too much as I don’t have any photos of Turtle Time bar at all – so strange as I know I took some, so probably my phone was on the blink as I thought I at least photographed the menu, the bar and indeed the football crowd. Nope.

England came back from 1-0 down to win 2-1 with two impressive Harry Kane goals. England were VERY lucky to win that and everyone in the bar was actually supporting England, even the staff which confused me! After that, I decided on the famous bar opposite – Sunshine’s…

9.I Tried The Famous Killer Bee Cocktail At Sunshine’s

I was recommended a Famous Killer Bee Cocktail At Sunshine’s Bar so I popped in before backpacking it back to Charlestown. It’s a spicy cocktail but what is it all about? Well I can tell you but I cannot show you – photos all gone and even the video I made of it. I took these photos earlier before going inside…

The Killer Bee is famous locally, outside of the Caribbean and even Saint Kitts and Nevis, I doubt many of you know about it. Still I wanted to try it. It is a legendary, highly potent signature rum punch served ONLY (apparently) at Sunshine’s Beach Bar on Pinney’s Beach. Created in the mid-1990s, it blends local golden and white rum, passion fruit juice, fresh lime, honey, and a top-secret “magic potion” of spices like nutmeg and black pepper, famously mixed out of sight beneath the bar.

To check out the Killer Bee go to Sunshine’s Bar. They have information on their Facebook Page. As for the taste, it was definitely spicy and unusual but just felt like a refreshing hot rum punch to me. I was ready for my boat trip home anyway by this point.

Further north, Oualie Beach serves as a reminder of the island’s original name but after the England v TDROT Congo match and the Killer Bee Sting Cocktail, I backpacked back to the boat terminal to make sure I didn’t miss the last boat home (I needn’t have worried – even my boat wouldn’t be the last one and it was delayed, but you can never be sure).

Sadly, as well as losing photos, I also didn’t get my passport stamped here!! Does it feel like I wasn’t even here?! Apparently though, you can get your passport stamped – that is for people arriving to Nevis on boats who make this their entrance point to the country Saint Kitts And Nevis here, rather than on the bigger island of Saint Kitts. Please also note that Nevis also has an international airport so you can also fly in directly and get your entrance visa and passport stamp here, whohc would be a cool quirk.

And with all that, my delayed boat and it was goodbye Nevis.

Here are some videos of my day trip to Nevis: