“You need a little time to rest your mind; you know you should so I guess you might as well” – Noel Gallagher.
Backpacking in England: 6 Quirky and Quick Music Related Sights to See in London
Well I’ve done my time living in London back in the day, and I must have visited the city about 50 times in my life, but I’m definitely not done with backpacking through it. Everytime I visit the English capital city, I check out new parts that I hadn’t been to before. This week it’s musical sights, rock related stuff. There are just so many of these in London that I only visited a few of them so far but here goes. I meant to write this post years ago but I re-did Oasis this week and the Iron Maiden pub for the first time.
“In sleepy London town, there ain’t no place for the street fighting man” – Keith Richards.
Backpacking in England: 6 Quirky and Quick Music Related Sights to See in London
On my trips through London, I have so far been to these places, all famous in some way.
1.Berwick Street, Soho
Why famous? Front cover of Oasis album (What’s The Story) Morning Glory?
“I’ll put on my shoes while they’re walking slowly down the hall of fame” – Noel Gallagher.
Backpacking in England: 6 Quirky and Quick Music Related Sights to See in London
As an Oasis geek, I loved the thought of visiting Berwick Street in Soho. This long street houses some of the best record shops in London, even in an era of digital downloads. This is where Oasis chose (at the last minute) to be the venue of the front cover for their second studio album, (What’s The Story) Morning Glory? Head to Berwick Street in Soho and backpack it for yourself.
(What’s The Story) Morning Glory? Well?I’ll put on my shoes while I’m walking slowly down the hall of fame…
For a bonus tip pop into the Green Man – cheapest pint in central London and a place where Oasis once drank.
All your dreams are made when you’re chained to the mirror and the razor blade…
2.Abbey Road Studios, Saint John’s Wood
Why famous? Many bands have recorded their hit albums here from The Beatles to Oasis to Morrissey.
“Joan was quizzical, studied metaphysical science in the home” – The Beatles.
Abbey Road Studios
I already covered my trip to Abbey Road studios in North London. My Abbey Road how to visit post shows you how to get there. You can get through the entrance and up to the reception but not into the studios unless you get invited, book it or are friends of a band, or indeed in a band.
Selfie at Abbey Road Studios
3.The Abbey Road Pelican Crossing, Saint John’s Wood
Why famous? The Beatles Abbey Road album cover.
Quite simply you can pretend to be The Beatles here and cross the Pelican crossing at Abbey Road. It is right outside Abbey Road Studios! The Red Hot Chili Peppers also copied this for their album in 1988, but they went nude instead.
Original Album Cover from the Beatles – copyright EMI.
“I said something wrong; now I long for yesterday” – Paul McCartney.
Backpacking in England: Crossing the Pelican at the Famous Abbey Road in St. John’s Wood, LondonOriginal Album Cover from Red Hot Chili Peppers
4.Frestonia, Latimer Road
Why famous? The Clash recorded Combat Rock here.
“The Shareef don’t like it, rock the Casbah, rock the Cashbah” – The Clash.
Modern Day Frestonia – the People’s Hall still exists – The Clash recorded Rock the Cashbah here
As well as checking out the place where The Clash recorded their famous album that spawned songs such as “Rock The Cashbah” and “Should I Remain In This Location or Move to An Alternative Location?” , you can count this as a visit to a separate country. In the 1970s, this area was closed off by the Squatters and classed as Frestonia. Frestonia issued their own stamps and passports and had a border with England. These days, Freston Road is a mere sign of those hippy hippy days.
Frestonia Passport Visa Stamp Traveller courtesy of http://www.frestonia.org/
The Clash album Combat Rock was recorded in The People’s Hall, pictured below.
Backpacking in the Former Republic of Frestonia: Latimer Road, London, England
5.Cart and Horses, Stratford
Why famous? It is the birthplace of Iron Maiden.
Cart and Horses, Stratford – birthplace of Iron Maiden
This is where it all began for Iron Maiden. The Cart and Horses Pub in Stratford. When I finally made it here in January 2020, I also visited the West Ham United football stadium nearby (and saw my team AFC Bournemouth lose 4-0). The pub was shut in 2019 to early 2020 for refurbishment but the plaques to Iron Maiden still remains.
Cart and Horses, Stratford – birthplace of Iron MaidenCart and Horses, Stratford – birthplace of Iron MaidenCart and Horses, Stratford – birthplace of Iron Maiden
6.St. Martin’s College, Camden
Why famous? The subject in the Pulp hit Common People, “studied sculpture at St. Martin’s college”.
“Are you sure you want to live like common people, wanna sleep with common people?” – Jarvis Cocker.
Pulp’s 1995 number two single (their highest ever position) owed its story to a Greek girl who Jarvis Cocker met when he attended St. Martin’s College in London. I have visited Camden a few times, but my first visit to St. Martin’s College was in 2015 when we went whackpacking in hippy Camden Town.
At St. Martin’s College finally – 20 years after the Pulp hit
There are of course many more quick and quirkey sights related to rock music in London, and I have backpacked a few more but that will do for today.
“In Camden Town, I’ll meet you by the underground” – Suggs.
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
I grew up in Northern Ireland and am a football geek. My Dad played football, I played football, my friends played football and my brothers played football. That quadruple also watch football week in, week out. A few years back I cracked the 501 not out for attendance at football matches. It is the biggest sport in Northern Ireland, run mightily close by the likes of rugby, golf and gaelic football. Despite that love for football, I never once made a point of visiting the village of Milford in County Armagh. It was here, in 1891 that the penalty kick (often termed pelanty when I was growing up) was invented.
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
This should have really been one of the first ever places I visited as a tourist. I mean I grew up in Bangor, a mere hour and a bit away from Milford in good traffic. So finally in December 2019, I made the trip to little known Milford. I headed here with two of my Polish friends and fellow football fans, Rafał and Kamil. It was a surprise trip for them, and a first trip here for me. Many people even reading this will NOT be aware that it was in my home country of Northern Ireland that the penalty kick was invented. It wasn’t around at the start, in fact it was invented in 1891, a full 24 years after the world’s first ever football club Sheffield FC came into existence (on 24 October 1857).
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
You see, football has along history from back in the 1850s to its current glitzy modern version. Football existed long before aeroplanes, video cameras, communism, photography, even before Northern Ireland existed as a country (we started in 1921).
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
During that crazy journey of football we have witnessed many and various changes in the game – both on the field rules, how the game is played, how supporters act, what stadiums are like, off the field rules etc… Some of these changes were influenced by technology, others were not. Here are just some changes in football down the years…
– Teams introduced numbers on the back of shirts
– Goalkeeper must wear a different colour of shirt
– The six yard line
– Corner flags
– Yellow cards
– Red cards
– Substitutions
– Offside rule
– A World Cup was introduced in 1930
– All seater stadiums
– Floodlights
– Undersoil heating
– The back pass rule
– Extra time
– Promotion and relegation
– Play-offs
– Fourth official
– Goalline technology
– VAR
Football in 2020 – watching West Ham United v. AFC Bournemouth (01.01.2020) a far cry from the 1850s…
However, one particular rule, invented by Armaghman, Ulsterman and Milforder William McCrum tops them all.
The penalty kick.
On the pitch at Glentoran FC – my team
To put things into context…
– Lionel Messi has scored 70 of his career goals from the penalty spot
– West Germany won the 1990 World Cup 1-0 thanks to a Andreas Brehme penalty kick
– Brazil beat Italy in the 1994 World Cup on penalties
– Cheatzerland cheated Northern Ireland out of a place in the 2018 World Cup due till a fake pelanty
– West Ham’s Mark Noble holds the Premier League record of 26 converted penalties
So the significance of this simple invention cannot and should not be understated. This man, William McCrum has influenced so much more in life than he could ever have known. He wasn’t even alive when Uruguay kicked off the 1930 World Cup, nor when West Germany beat France in 1982 in what was the first ever World Cup penalty shoot out.
Who was William McCrum?
William McCrum was born in the village of Milford in County Armagh, Northern Ireland (at the time, Ireland) in February 1865. He was the son of local millionaire linen manufacturer Robert McCrum but he didn’t have much interest in or focus on the family business. He loved all sports, especially football even though he wasn’t very good!!! He also played rugby, chess and cricket. He attended Armagh Royal Academy in Northern Ireland.
William McCrum – only the dude who invented penalties
William McCrum was a goalkeeper for Milford Everton FC McCrum played for them for years, with the first season being noted as a season in the top flight in Northern Ireland (then Ireland). As goalkeeper for his local club, Milford Everton FC, he conceded 61 goals in 14 games during the first ever season of the Irish Football League in 1890-1891!! Here is the team portrait, only 11 players back then – no substitutes!
Milford FC, 1890
When and how was the penalty kick added to football?
The penalty kick (pelanty) was officially added to the association football rule book on 2 June 1891, but when William first suggestion the idea it was laughed at! The English, Scottish, Welsh and Irish Football Associations are the oldest four in the world and three of them rejected the idea, citing that it is a professional gentleman’s sport so it is inconceiveable that a player would deliberately foul another player on the pitch.
However, after some serious casualties in the game in the early days, it was deemed that a rule change was needed. William McCrum was a member of the Irish Football Association in Belfast when he suggested the idea and on 2nd June 1891 (only a year after the IFA existed), the penalty kick, the 12 yard spot from goal and the 18 yard box suitably adapted for eternity…much to the scourge of defenders, goalkeepers, Zico, Robeto Baggio, Maxime Bosis and Chris Waddle…
“and the goalkeeper saved it; and they couldn’t get the rebound in” – BBC commentator on Zico, 1986 World Cup.
“and the goalkeeper saved it; and they couldn’t get the rebound in” – BBC commentator on Zico, 1986 World Cup.
What an accolade for William McCrum to have invented this important part of the sport we all love. So I had to go to Milford and here’s how to do it…
Getting to Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland
I drove here and you should aimto do the same. Milford does not have a train station or a major bus station. There are irregular buses from nearby Armagh if needed. I drove from Belfast on this route:
Bangor to Belfast – A2 main road
Belfast – M3 briefly from the Oval foot to the M1
Belfast to Portadown – follow the M1 almost direct using junction 11 to come off onto the M12
Portadown to Armagh – bypass Portadown town centre and get onto the A3
Armagh to Milford – stay on the A3 until you see the sign for Milford, where you turn right…
Getting to Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland
That route was very straight and easy.
Sightseeing in Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland
For me, there are two main sights here. The William McCrum Memorial Park and the sign at the entrance to Milford – home of the penalty kick. On the way into Milford, we stop at the entrance sign for obligatory photos. Just behind this is a tourist information board displaying some further information about the village.
The sign at the entrance to Milford – home of the penalty kick.The sign at the entrance to Milford – home of the penalty kick.
To find the William McCrum Memorial park, just head through the village’s main street – Hill Street (from Armagh side) and turn left on William Street by the children’s playground. Take another left on William Street to find the main square and memorial park, located on William Street itself, also at Linen Green. Below I have marked it on Google Maps and Google Earth – exact location here.
William McCrum Park – location in Milford, County Armagh, Northern IrelandWilliam McCrum Park – location in Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland
The William McCrum Memorial park is excellent. The entrance has miniature balls on the pillars, there is a central statue of William in the middle and four notice boards with information on William McCrum and the penalty. Fittingly ball games are permitted here and we notice 3 kids lurking around and 2 footballs there.
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
We read the four information boards, took some photos and took air pelanties!
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
On the way out of town, at Ann’s Terrace and Ann’s Street you can also find two surviving Milford football club pitches but no stadium, nor indeed any team plying their trade in a high Northern Irish division. The sentiment and importance of this trip did NOT pass any of us by. We loved it and I recommend it. The same week, we attended three live football matches and one of them featured a penalty, converted by West Ham’s Mark Noble.
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s LegacyVisiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
To the legend that is William McCrum, thank you!!
Visiting The Home of the Penalty Kick: Milford, County Armagh, Northern Ireland and William McCrum’s Legacy
Here are some other great links to read more about the Northern Irish legend that is William McCrum:
My book was delayed so many times that I had to split it intill three parts and I spent 4 years editing it, after 30 years of writing it and checking it. At times, depression and liars kicked in to ensure the spillover date would be everflowing. Now I’ll split such a book into three unique parts. The first part of the “Backpacking Centurion” Trilogy will be about my childhood in Bangor, Northern Ireland up to 2008, when I still lived in Bournemouth, England but had by then backpacked to 4 out of the 7 continents.
Backpacking Centurion Volume One – Don’t Look Back in Bangor
Backpacking Centurion – Volume One – Don’t Look Back in Bangor
1980 – 2008
35 chapters
No release date
No word count
Nothing confirmed
“Slip inside the eye of your mind” – Noel Gallagher.
The first volume of Backpacking Centurion begins where it all began for Jonny Blair. That means the seaside town of Bangor in Northern Ireland. The year is 1980. Jonny will take you on a “fool circle” here as he details his childhood with footballic zest. Jonny’s topsy turvy time at Bangor Grammar School is encapsulated in an enthralling chapter trilogy of teenage angst.
Delve into Jonny’s early tourist days of visiting The Netherlands, France and significantly Bournemouth in 1994. Seaside beach towns beginning with B on the brain, it was here in an unlikely ice cream hut where this nationalistic Northern Irishman found a hunger for global travel.
Weekend trips to Burnley, Colchester and Portsmouth soon became backpacking adventures to Belarus, China and Poland. The odyssey really kicked off when Jonny was in his twenties, which is where this first volume ends. It is a real life journey of ups and downs.
Expect some regretful bad boy behaviour, unashamed nudity and vintage banter as Jonny injects humour, sincerity and openness to his life of tears, fears and elation.
By the end of this volume, Jonny will have gone through failed romances, an arm and leg break and some wacky trips to lands afar watching the Northern Ireland football team. He will have you gagging for volume two, where in essence the real 100 country quest begins to dominate proceedings.
The volume’s title and much of its theme reflects on Jonny’s desire not to look back at what has been and gone. Doors are closed and his Bangor hometown was left behind. In true poetic Noel Gallagher fashion, Jonny’s soul slides away, but don’t look back in Bangor, we heard him say.
It seems ridiculous to me now that I am a veteran blogger. Twelve years has passed by so quickly since Don’t Stop Living began shyly back in August 2007. It started as a way of moving my written diary (on paper) from my trips to the online diary. I had no idea that it would turn into an obsession, a passion, a business. All for better or for worse though as it has been a tough and rocky road.
Don’t Stop Living – creating a travel blog
I also never expected from one main blog, Don’t Stop Living that I could start one, let alone other main blogs. Alongside this project, I also write about Poland at Northern Irishman in Poland, about my Northern Ireland flag at TNIF.com and about global general travel on Crossing World Borders. So how do you start it all? How do you create a blog or a website? Here are some tips to get you started…
The Northern Irishman in Poland header project
Choose a niche
So, you want to start a blog. What is your niche, what is your target market. Travel is a niche for sure, but it’s a huge niche, so go deeper. Budget travel. Coffee travel. Boat travel. Skateboard travel. Expensive travel. Adventure travel. Egypt travel. Cairo travel. And then go even deeper. My niche is so deep, I don’t really care any more, but I did start as a budget tourist who loves sightseeing, visiting bars, watching football and writing about lesser known places. I hated articles on Paris, Bangedcock and Rome. So I didn’t write such articles. In my early days, I was writing about places like Poatina, Babruysk and Xinying. It is now to find a place where NO TOURIST has been, hence why I backpacked to Adammia and Austenasia in 2015.
At Xinying train station getting the train north to Taichung.
The URL / domain / website address is important. Don’t be going for anything related to a single country unless you are focusing on that country. So go for .net or .com. Do not go for .cz (Cheatzerland), .dk (Denmark), .co (Colombia) etc. as Google will expect your website to be related to that country. I briefly considered dontstopliving.ni but since .ni is Nicaragua instead of my beloved Northern Ireland, I opted for .net . The reason being that .com was taken. My blog was always going to be called “Don’t Stop Living”. I never had another phrase or title for it and I never needed one. It’s me. Life is an adventure. Don’t Stop Living. Enjoy every day. So it was easy to choose my url and domain name. Also – don’t go for something with a number in it, or that is already popular. Something like spanishtourist.com is too common. Think outside the box, be creative. And for those who know the story, Don’t Stop Living was NOT my phrase. I stole it when I was backpacking in Toronto in 2001 and those words were grafittied onto a High School Wall in red capital letters! Though the logo, header and design of DSL changed about 10 times in 12 years…and I am still unhappy with the current design (but not the logo which is stuck now and I love).
My Fabulous Don’t Stop Living Logos on Inkmill Vinyl!Don’t Stop Living early daysDon’t Stop LivingDon’t Stop Living – 2010Don’t Stop Living – 2010 to 2012Becoming a Travel Blogger: How To Design A WebsiteOriginal Don’t Stop Living official country logo, 2012
Create Social Media Accounts
It still shocks me how some people want to be successful bloggers but yet they don’t even want to join Social Media. Sorry then – blogging isn’t for you. We are public!! We share our honest and real lives with the world and I love doing it. I joined as many social media sites as I could, I set up pages, uploaded my photos and synchronised them all as Jonny Blair, Northern Irish tourist, Don’t Stop Living. Obvious social media are my Facebook page, my Instagram profile, my YouTube uploads and my Twitter feed.
But I even joined Pinterest, Reddit and Stumble Upon. If any new Social medias come up, I join them. Also as well as joining them, be active on them and interactive.
Build Domain Authority
Once tyou have your domain and your social media, it is time to build your authority and increase the reach of your blog. I studied Marketing, Advertising and Public Relations at University and worked in PR in London so I just used my experience in that at the beginning. But it’s a learning curve. Things go deeper. You can turn to other ideas to enhance your reach. Ideas like publicity stunts, viral posts, meeting other bloggers, blog events, paying people to improve your SEO, getting social media help such as Pleasure Principle Instagram and WeTweet.
Working in Ghent, Belgium
Of course there is a lot more to blogging than just these simple points today, you need to be honest, pure, passionate, relentless, restless, perpetual. You blog almost every day in some way. You keep readers updated. You inspire, amuse and enthuse. You have ups and downs, you get as much hate as you get love. I actually loved the fact that in September 2016, I had 9,000 followers on Facebook and now I have just over 8,000. Those that left me and stopped following, I don’t their negativity in my life as they don’t understand mental health and hate my honesty – they even criticised my suicide bid, they supported a public liar during my deep depression and good riddance to them!! So we have good and bad times. But overall, it is your choice to become a blogger!
Finally here are some other pages with tips on blogging…
“Where do you go? Buttoned in your favourite coat, stepping out till a different world… And you might be home late” – Ocean Colour Scene.
Before we get into the William Baekeland saga, let me introduce your author for this book, Harry Mitsidis.
Author of “The Curious Case of William Baekeland” – Harry Mitsidis
If you are a long term tourist like me, names and figures such as Harry Mitsidis require no introduction. Harry is a man who visited every country in the world (in both his own and the Untied Nations classification) by the age of 35. It is some achievement and deserves applause and respect. Harry Mitsidis cracked the shebang and more, and he continues to travel to unusual parts of the world often earning the moniker “world’s most travelled person”.
Book Review : The Curious Case of William Baekeland by Harry Mitsidis
Harry Mitsidis also started a website called The Best Travelled, which became Nomad Mania. It is a website which I joined in 2012 around the time I transferred from hobby blogger to professional travel blogger. On that website you can plot which cities, countries, regions and UNESCO world heritage sites you have been to. It is a great site, with its only fault for me being that it respects global authorities (like UN, FIFA and TCC) too much and fails to recognise genuine countries from my own list, such as Uzupis, Podjistan, Austenasia and Romkerhall. That said, I have noticed that an increasing number of fellow tourists follow the same global entity classifications laid down by UN, FIFA and TCC. Enough of that, here is a story of a kid called William Baekeland who wanted to whackpack to 12,000 places.
Backpacking in the Kingdom of Romkerhall – a real country not on the Nomad Mania list
Around 2017, I heard tale about a scandal in the travel community. While I usually don’t like most of the opinions shared by my fellow tourists, I respect them all for their love of travel. Beneath the bullshit there is a togetherness and a need to help each other. My friend Nate helped me in 2016 ahead of my Uzbekistan to Afghanistan adventure, another traveller Mike Kendall gave me tips on Togo and Benin whilst Eduardo Gallardo (who backpacked Saudi Arabia with me) gave me good tips on the Pacific Islands. I also send emails and messages daily supplying my own tips to tourists who write to me through my blogs.
As a veteran travel blogger, I always seem to get email after email and message after message, daily, on these topics:
1.Safety of a place.
2.Visa requirements.
3.Money saving.
4.How to make money travel blogging.
If the message is personal, I always try to reply and help. If it is a comment on my Facebook or Twitter feeds, I always try to reply.
Book Review : The Curious Case of William Baekeland by Harry Mitsidis
I encountered a truly peculiar character called William Baekeland around 2016. It was around the time of my own severe mid life crisis, depression and suicide bid. The irony being that the cruel nasty liar who I had the misfortune to meet would have made a super wife and accomplice for this fellow liar and conman William Baekeland. They would be a brace of peas in a pod.
Personally, I saw William Baekeland as a posh, stuck up young inexperienced travel wannabe. A comment from him once boasted about a trip to Iraq or Syria and how he could organise it and not care about the money. Another comment claimed Aer Lingus love him so much they send him photos of his own flights taking off and landing. It was laughable. I remember replying to one of his Syria posts with something like ‘too mainstream, mate. Those are easy countries to visit. Bet you have never been to Austenasia or Podjistan.’ He was somehow silenced as he realised his wacaday trips to Syria certainly didn’t impress me much. He probably had to Google Podjistan and Austenasia…make that Definitely.
Then a short while later he was also commenting on one of my lists, saying he agreed with my classification of countries. This felt odd as most fellow tourists I meet do NOT count countries like Kugel Mugel, Sark, Austenasia, Adammia, Romkerhall or Narnia as real countries. However, I am a nationalist and separatist, needing, wishing, wanting and loving every country to be more nationalistic and separate. To have clearer borders, their own autonomy, their own currency and so on. It would be a dreamlike peaceful world.
Crossing the border from Northern Ireland to Narnia
When I saw him posting a photo of him in Business Class on a Dublin flight, I laughed at his buck eejitry. But I had never met William Baekeland. He added me on Facebook around 2016-2017 and we exchanged a few messages and comments but that was it. I usually don’t connect well with fellow tourists rich in money and flying first class. Ye can shove yer champagne breakfast up yer hole.
I also became wary and suspicious of “Billy Bikeland” due to his ridiculous name. It sounded fake. He claimed to be Irish, yet spoke like a posh English person on his media interview with Ric on Counting Countries. His name doesn’t sound remotely Irish or British!!
Billy Bikeland posing in a ridiculous posh suit in a place that sounds like Syria, but isn’t.
Then a scandal emerged. It was via Ric Gazarian and his excellent Counting Countries Podcast series where I learnt about the Turmoil in the Travel Community.
William Baekeland’s story sent shock waves across the travel community.
This wannabe upper class fake Irishman was exposed to the world. He’s even less Irish than Tony Cascarino!! Cascarino’s story however is a fantastic one – despite never owning an Irish passport or having any Irish blood roots, Cascarino blagged his way to two World Cups, one Euros and 88 caps!
In 2018, Harry Mitsidis released this book on the Bikeland story. I have decided that I didn’t want to give too much away about the book in this mini review. This is because it is a fantastic story which should not be spoiled before reading it.
The book is a travel, mystery, suspence thriller. I could imagine it being made into a film with Hercule Poirot, Jonathan Creek and Colombo all pitting their wits to find the solution.
The book takes our author Harry Mitsidis to far flung tourist spots well off the wheaten craic (correct modern day term for the archaic “off the beaten track”) such as Tristan de Cunha, Spitsbergen, Central African Republic, Palmyra Atoll, plus some more obvious places like East Timor, Sutton Coldfield and Dublin.
I hope someday the book is made into a film.
William Baekeland’s story is widely known in the wacaday travel community, but if you are unaware of it – then this book is for you.
I finished the book in less than 24 hours, including having slept for 8 of those hours! A super read!
And finally, as I was reading this book (in November 2019), there were a few crazy coincidences:
1.I started readin it flying out of Dublin (Where Billy Bikeland claimed to live).
2.The next flight to my Warszawa one was heading to Birmingham (Where Billy Bikeland was allegedly from).
3.The next day in Poland, just after I had finished the book, there was a packet of Baakaland cereal on a desk in the office I work in. A crazy coincidence!!
Thanks for writing such an enthralling unputdownable book Harry and hope to see you around somewhere…
“I try to hang on to myself. I don’t believe in no-one else. And I’m shaking like a leaf, As I fall into the street” – Noel Gallagher.
Sunday’s Inspiration: Why Can’t The Clocks Go Back 5 Years?
Sunday’s Inspiration: Why Can’t The Clocks Go Back 5 Years?
‘You’ll never change what’s been and gone’- Noel Gallagher.
Around 2013, Sundays became a place for me to vent my thoughts on life in genral and my journey in this series, Sunday’s Inspiration. Sadly, as I reflect on that today, I really needed to, and couldn’t even listen to my own thoughts. I was giving out my thoughts to others but I couldn’t listen to my own thoughts or take my own advice.
Why can’t the clocks go back 5 years? (That’s not even a clock in the photo!)
You see, the clocks ‘went back’ last month in Poland, just by one hour. I wish they would go back to 9 p.m. in Romania on Saturday 15th November 2014. Then, everything in my life would be fine. But we can’t. It really would be fine.
“Ooh aah Eric CAN’Tona” – Manchester United fans.
The past is done and it started on that leg from Stansted Airport on the 10th November 2014… Here are some photos from my ill-fated journey from a favourite haunt of mine (Stansted Airport, ENGLAND) on a favourite airline of mine (Ryanair) to a brand new country for me (Romania, number 103 on my journey, though at the time I had miscounted).
Last bite in England (Stansted Airport) on 10th November 2014. Everything was fine.Leaving Stansted Airport on 10th November 2014. Everything was fine.Leaving Stansted Airport on 10th November 2014. Everything was fine.Arrival and airport bus in Romania on 10th November 2014. Everything was fine.My lovely hostel – Little Bucharest, Old Town on 10th November 2014. Everything was fine.A great first night in Romania with Wandering Earl – Bucharest, Old Town on 10th November 2014. Everything was fine.
From the 10th – 15th November, I toured Romania and there were so many highlights, so yes life was good for those 5 days…here is a recap, or perhaps the first time I have shown these photos and told this story. I toured Bucharest for the first two days, and loved the restaurants and bars too. I stayed at the lovely (but ill-fated) Little Bucharest Hostel in the Old Town.
Touring BucharestFabulous food – I was eating out in Bucharest every night
Dor de Bucovina Hostel in Campulung MoldovenescDinner at the Dor De Bucovina Hostel in Campulung MoldovenescEnjoying a local breakfast at Dor de Bucovina Hostel.Staying at the Dor de Bucovina Hostel in Campulung Moldovenesc.
Then I toured the magnificent coloured churches in Sucevita and Moldovita. It was amazing – my highlights from Romania for sure.
Sucevita, RomaniaMoldovita, RomaniaMoldovita, Romania
After the churches, I visited the black ceramics factory in Marginea and the salt mines in Cacica. Cacica was magical as there was a football pitch in the salt mine!
Black ceramics factory in MargineaA deep football pitch in the Salt Mine of Cacica
After my adventure up north, I took a night train back to Bucharest – again it was magical but there was something that also worked against me here – I was moved to a different dorm room in the Little Bucharest Hostel as I had been away for 2.5 days. Fate was about to blow me a nasty hook, but I didn’t know it as I innocently took this photo and set about writing about my trips.
My new dorm room. The bed to my right had me on the bottom bunk, and the unknownI needed to move dorms, my new dorm where fate dealt a cruel blow.
Then at 3 p.m. on day 5, I met up with the GAWA (Green and White Army), the Northern Ireland fans. I hung out with fans I had known for years and years following Northern Ireland.
Our Wee Country – the Green and White Army – Northern Ireland – The GAWAOur Wee Country – the Green and White Army – Northern Ireland – The GAWAOur Wee Country – the Green and White Army – Northern Ireland – The GAWARomania v Northern Ireland match ticket
We had 9 points out of 9 going into this match and a win would have seen us win 3 out of 3 aways and on 12 points. Despite conceding 2 goals in the last ten minutes and losing 2-0 to Romania, we still ended up winning the group! The match was on Friday 14th November 2014 and I will never forget it, because after a night out and having to buy a new laptop the next day, my life was about to change forever…
Our Wee Country – the Green and White Army – Northern Ireland – The GAWAOur Wee Country – the Green and White Army – Northern Ireland – The GAWAOur Wee Country – the Green and White Army – Northern Ireland – The GAWA
Above, the last photo of me really really happy in life. I had no idea what was to follow and yes, if I could rewind to that exact moment I would. I would do what Marty McFly did in Back to the Future and I would change my history. But I can’t. The following evening, in the kitchen of that Bucharest hostel, I had the misfortune to meet Slavic-German girl her accomplice. I was having a cup of tea and blogging…
The ill-fated kitchen where I first met themThe ill-fated kitchen where I first met them
So here, in November 2019, I reflect on the exact turning point in my life, which happened exactly 5 years ago this week. It’s not a good turning point. It’s a bad one . The worst moment of my life occurred at 21.58pm on Saturday 15th November 2014. This moment at the time felt just like any other cool backpacking moment of my life. In fact, at the time it felt good, it felt cool. It was at that exact time, in the kitchen of the Little Bucharest Hostel (a super hostel incidentally, I had no idea they would be the scapegoat for a downfall in my journey) where I suffered a total misfortune (or God’s punishment, or karma for my mischief aged 14-17).
At that moment, 21:58 p.m., in walked a fellow tourist. To the hostel, to the kitchen, to my table, to my world, to my life. I had no idea that this cruel, nasty little minx could reap havoc and ruin my nice journey forever. But she did. And that will be five years ago on Friday night this week. The next morning I took some photos in Bucharest and booked a train to Chisinau in Moldova…unaware of the liar I had just encountered, walking round my dorm room in her pants.
Touring Bucharest, after I had met a touristTouring Bucharest, after I had met a touristTouring BucharestTouring Bucharest
The weird thing is I look really happy in all those above photos, but this was after the meeting. The fake happiness continued through Moldova, into Transnistria and back to Romania, before I headed to Bulgaria. All four countries were new for me at the time.
Night train from Bucharest in Romania to Chisinau in MoldovaFirst meal in Chisinau, MoldovaBackpacking in Tiraspol, TransnistriaEating in Tiraspol, Transnistria
Again, I cannot believe my smiles here. I look unbelievably happy! Why?? Within a year of those photos, I had left my home in Asia (Hong Kong), I had finished my book “Backpacking Centurion” and I had split up with my long term girlfriend and former wife to be. It was over and so was my time as a long term backpacker. The smiles really are not real, in retrospect.
So I wish I could go back in time, but I cannot, how sad, life goes reluctantly on…
Back to the FutureBack to the Future.
At 21:58 p.m. this Friday night, I will be sat at a rock concert in Warszawa in Poland and I know that this moment from 5 years ago in Bucharest, Romania will come into my mind, I cannot escape it.
Why did I have to meet such a person on that ill-fated night? Why oh why? I regret it all so so much.
“God only knows, yeah God only knows…the way it’s going to be” – Noel Gallagher.
I just pray happiness is yet to come for me because it sure is a depressing life.
“Rising up to the challenge of our rivals” – Survivor.
Attending the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islandsfrem
Well well well. Life and festivals continued in their craziness after I landed by flight into country 170, the Marshall Islands. ?????On the short walk from our hotel here, Marshall Islands Resort, to the local supermarket, memories floodigated back. Memories of this list of lunatical festivals or events down the years:
One of my crazy moments in Africa – feeding hyenas hand to mouth and mouth to mouth
This time, our group from Young Pioneer Tours were heading to a supermarket in Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands at 9.30 a.m. on a Saturday morning to witness a “hot dog festival”!! Yes, seriously mate. So what’s it all about, do ya really wanna know?
Attending the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
What is the Hoffy Hot Dog Festival in Majuro, Marshall Islands?
Once a year, in the capital city, the DUD part of Majuro (in Majuro Atoll) of the Marshall Islands, a local supermarket teams up with hot dog company Hoffy to launch a fun and happy hot dog eating competition.
Attending the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
There are three prizes for the winners, first, second and third. These are gift vouchers as such:
Gold (1st, winner) – 300 USD voucher
Silver (2nd, runner up) – 200 USD voucher
Bronze (3rd, third place) – 100 USD voucher
Attending the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
Where is the Hoffy Hot Dog Festival in Majuro, Marshall Islands held?
It is held in the forecourt in front of Delap main store, part of Island Pride Supermarket in the DUD (Delap, Uliga, Djarrit) city part of the Majuro Atoll on the Marshall Islands.
Delap main store, part of Island Pride Supermarket in the DUD (Delap, Uliga, Djarrit) city part of the Majuro Atoll on the Marshall Islands.Delap main store, part of Island Pride Supermarket in the DUD (Delap, Uliga, Djarrit) city part of the Majuro Atoll on the Marshall Islands.
When is the Hoffy Hot Dog Festival in Majuro, Marshall Islands held?
In 2019, it was held at 10 a.m. on Saturday 3rd August 2019. However it varies each year, it might be the first Saturday of August, but it can also change.
Attending the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsfremAttending the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islandsfrem
Who can enter the Hoffy Hot Dog Festival in Majuro, Marshall Islands?
Anyone!! Yes even tourists. I could have entered if I wanted!! But of course, myself and an eating competition just don’t go hand in hand. I’ve such a small appetite. Luckily our group leader, Pier, hesitated not and entered. Representing not just himself, but widerly, Young Pioneer Tours and foreigners in the magical Marshall Islands. The cost to enter is $5 US Dollars and includes a free Hoffy Hot Dog Festival T shirt. We supported Pier as the nitty gritty got down to work, or eating dead pig in a roll accompanied by infinite water.
Pier representing Young Pioneer Tours at the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsPier representing Young Pioneer Tours at the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
The ten Contestants in the 2019 Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Festival in Majuro were:
Pier
Charlie
Shosino
Kevin
Miquel
Stephen
Willino
Kalepo
Manos
Shunsuke
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsThe Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
So it begins…
9.49 a.m. We arrive about ten minutes early and already a crowd has gathered. The contestants in their yellow Hoffy Hot Dog Festival t shirts saunter around savouring their last sips of free air in their mouths before bread and penis shaped pork products dominate proceedings.
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
9.55 a.m. The contestants pose for photos, the rules are explained. There are to be three prizes, gold, silver and bronze. Gold and therefore the winner is $300, Silver second $200 and Bronze third $100. The money is gift vouchers, not actual cash. The contestants are in bouyant mood and can drink as much water as they want during the festival. Most of them had nothing for breakfast.
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsThe Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
9.57 a.m. There is a final chance for anyone from the crowd to enter. Pier from Young Pioneer Tours takes the initiative and enters to represent us. He had already eaten a full breakfast just an hour earlier, as had all of us. So there were now a total of 10 contestants, all male. Females were of course welcome to enter, but none did. Was this the true meaning of a “sausage fest”? What was also impressive was that they quickly printed a name sheet on Piers desk so all contestants had their names on display and so the madness began at 10 a.m.
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsThe Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsPier representing YPT
10 a.m. The next five minutes are pure madness. All 10 contestants scoff as many hot dogs as they can in a short period of time. Beside each contestant, a judge holds up a piece of paper stating how many hot dogs the person next to them has consumed. Kalepo has 3 scoffed in the first 2 minutes and takes the lead.
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
10.05 a.m. The madness is over and Kalepo is announced as the winner, eating 5 and three quarters of a hot dog. Apparently he wins it every year and his record was 7. The runner up ate 5 and a bit hot dogs and the third place ate 5.
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
Despite just having a huge breakfast at our Hotel, Pier still managed to eat 3 full hot dogs in 5 minutes!!
Pier munched a hat-trick (3) hot dogs despite just finishing a big breakfast at our Hotel
10. 09 a.m. Prizes are given out. The remaining hot dogs and left over water are offered to all spectators so I take one of each. The hot dogs admittedly were not very tasty so to eat 1 was even a struggle for me.
The Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall IslandsThe Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Eating Contest in Majuro, Marshall Islands
Marshall Islands was not amazingly exciting, though it had much better nightlife than Nauru. Because of this, the Annual Hoffy Hot Dog Festival was my highlight from my time backpacking in the Marshall Islands. I also toured the bars at night, the sights of the DUD contiguous settlement and we spent a day on Eneko Island. Marshall Islands has some really unusual facts such as:
It is the only UN recognised country without ever having proof of any kind of official national football match being played.
Despite this, there is actually a very small football league but only space for a few pitches.
The country uses US Dollars but is funded by the bank of Guam.
The capital city is not Majuro, it’s actually called DUD (Delap-Uliga-Djarrit) and is comprised of three thin contiguous strips of buildings along one road.
The capital city is an L shape and looks like this from the air:
Marshall Islands capital city from the air – DUD
No athlete from the Marshall Islands has ever won a medal at the Olympics.
In 2018, the Marshall Islands passed a Sovereign Currency Act, which made it the first country to issue their own cryptocurrency and certify it as legal tender; the currency is called the “sovereign”.
Marshall Islands was once called German Guinea.
Backpacking in Majuro, Marshall Islands
Overall though, it was definitely worth a visit and for sure I count it as a real country, it was number 170 on my hitlist.
Here are some videos I took at the Hoffy Hot Dog Festival in DUD, Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands:
“YAMD” – Northern Ireland football supporters, circa Denmark away 2006.
Thirsty Thursdays: STEVEN DAVIS Pub Crawl in Lviv, Ukraine
When I first backpacked in Ukraine in 2015, I raved about how incredible the bars in Lviv were. It came as no surprise to me of course, as countries such as Poland, Belarus, Ukrainę and Russia generally have the best bars in the world, in my opinion. Lviv has such a diverse range of bars and I simply loved the Masoch Bar, Kriyivka and Pravda/ Beer Theatre, on that first visit. For the memory…
Backpacking in Ukraine, Thirsty Thursdays: Top 5 Bars in LvivGetting Handcuffed and Spanked in the home of Masochism in Lviv, Ukraine
By 2016 though, I had relocated to Poland. I first lived in the glorious seaside city of Gdańsk, before settling in Warszawa, The country’s capital. As a nomadic Northern Irish football fan, I often set up new Northern Ireland Supporters Clubs in lands abroad, including the SOENISC (South of England Northern Ireland Supporters Club) in 2005, the TasmaNIan WilderNISC in 2010 and the Hong Kong NISC in 2012. I was aware of a fellow GAWA member, Kyle, living in Lviv Ukraine. So since moving to Poland, Kyle and I had been in touch about forming another Northern Ireland Supporters Club. As crazy at that sounds, it would be the fifth Northern Ireland Supporters Club I would be in, and in five different countries across a continent hat-trick.
South of England Northern Ireland Supporters Club – Standard Day OutChaz and I: TasmaNIan WilderNISC, 2010Hong Kong Northern Ireland Supporters Club, 2012
I had watched a few Northern Ireland football matches on my own in the bars of Warszawa and Gdańsk as there just didn’t seem to be any other Northern Ireland fans about. So Kyle and I decided on a joint meeting to watch a match together in a pub. It was an easy choice to hold it in Lviv, but this was in 2019, yes it took a while to organise. I love an adventure, I had longed to visit Ukraine again and there was an easy overnight train from Warszawa to Lviv, with a stop over in Rzeszów.
Warszawa to Lviv night train…Warszawa to Lviv night train…Warszawa to Lviv night train…Warszawa to Lviv night train…
I booked my train for the Friday night sleeper train, and Kyle and I agreed to do a pub crawl on the Saturday before watching the Northern Ireland v. Belarus European Championships qualifier on the Sunday night in a pub. During the weekend we would also form the first Northern Ireland Supporters Club in either Poland or Ukraine. We decided to call ourselfs [sic] The Transcarpathian Northern Ireland Supporters Club.
Warszawa to Lviv night train…Warszawa to Lviv night train…Warszawa to Lviv night train…Warszawa to Lviv night train…Arrival in Lviv, Ukraine
For the Saturday launch, we decided on a themed pub crawl dedicated to the current Northern Ireland football captain, Steven Davis, veteran of over 110 Northern Ireland caps. Not only did we have to drink in a bar beginning with each letter of STEVEN DAVIS, but we also had to have a drink with each letter of STEVEN DAVIS! It was to be an epic day out 11bars, 11drinks and a themed night out. Lunacy but standard order resumed. I didn’t even tell Steven Davis about it – I’ll probably Tweet this post to him now but at the time, Steve needed to concentrate on results on the pitch. Kyle, myself, local Ukrainian Oleh were part of the crawl, and whoever else wanted to join our party…
Backpacking in Lviv, UkraineBackpacking in Lviv, UkraineBackpacking in Lviv, UkraineBackpacking in Lviv, Ukraine
This was to be another crazy night on the journey as we started the crawl in earnest with two Irish coffees in Svit Kawy. Here is how the Steven Davis pub crawl panned out.
STEVEN DAVIS Pub Crawl
Pubs spelling STEVEN DAVIS…(11) Svit Kawy
Truth (Pravda)
Elephant (Slon)
Varka
Edison
Number 44
Dim Legend
Amsterdam
Vyshnya (Drunk Cherry)
Iron Hat (Zalizna Czapka)
Stan Lee or Stargorod
Svit Kawy
We had an Irish coffee each in here, Kyle and I. It started the day off. We even tried to do the pub crawl in order.
Svit KawySvit KawySvit Kawy – Irish Coffee
I brung Kyle some Northern Irish cheese till thon bar so I did.
Svit Kawy – Irish Coffee
We went home to Kyle’s place to change clothes and chat all day which meant Oleh would meet us in Pravda later and have to catch up a letter “S” (Stargorod – which is the same Ukrainian meaning as a Polish city I love – Starogard).
Truth (Pravda)
Next up, the legendary Pravda bar in the main square in Lviv served as the T in Stevie…Kyle and I actually had 2 beers in here on the day…and I had also been in this bar in 2015, on Kyle’s recommendation.
Truth (Pravda)Truth (Pravda)Truth (Pravda)
Elephant (Slon)
I was surprised to learn that the word “elephant” in Ukrainian is slon, as it’s basically the same in Polish, where it is słoń. We headed to “E” (Słoń) for an “S” (Sangria). I must mention that on the pub crawl, it was each to their own. If someone really didn’t tick off an E or an S, the other two would have to verify it, or they would have to go to another bar later and prove it (as Oleh later did, while I was drunk!). But Elephant could be used as S or E, depending on your understanding of it. I used Elephant and Edison as my E’s, and Svit Kavy and Stan Lee as my S’s.
Elephant (Slon)Elephant (Slon)Elephant (Slon)
Varka
Varka came in rightly, as it was a Craft Beer Pub and it sounded like Warka in Polish (same letter to replace a V for a W). It was in here that we danced, sang and met more people for the pub crawl, including Rostyslav who would also watch the match with us on the Sunday.
Varka – great bar to meet people in…Varka with new friends including Rostyslav
Edison
When we arrived in Edison there was a running joke – EDISON Narantes Do Nascimento (or whatever) – it’s Pele’s real name. Yet, George Best is George Best. He didn’t need pseudonyms or monikers and even Pele said George was the Best. In Edison we had two drinks each to get 2 letters in on the drinks list, and we also had a burger each.
Edison PubEdison Pub
Number 44
Again, the name of this bar was in English which caused concern but of course, fitted perfectly intill the pub crawl. Steven Davis never wore 44, nor did Northern Ireland ever draw 4-4 (we once lost 4-3 to Bulgaria and Germany) but a good choice from Kyle…
Dim Legend
The opposite of being “dim”, the “Dim Legend” exceeded all expectations as it was a rooftop bar with a view over Lviv. As we were on a brisk and swift pub crawl there was no need to hang around a while so a quick vodka and then good to go…but a class bar and worthy of the D in YAMD.
Dim LegendDim LegendDim LegendDim LegendOleh and I in Dim Legend
Amsterdam
A bar called Amsterdam says all it needs to say. No photos…but we were all there…
Vyshnya (Drunk Cherry)
It was quite apt that we all dandered to “drunk Cherry” as I’m an AFC Bournemouth fan and was already drunk by this point. In drunk Cherry, there was one choice of drink – a cherry shot and a hot one, as it was still cauld and winter in Ukraine!
Vyshnya (Drunk Cherry)Vyshnya (Drunk Cherry)
Iron Hat (Zaliszya Zabka)
Jokes about Scunthorpe and West Ham United did circulate amongst us as Kyle and Oleh are Arsenal FC fans and I’m a big AFC Bournemouth fan but the Iron Hat was a cool pub.
Iron Hat – Zalizna ShapkaIron Hat – Zalizna ShapkaIron Hat – Zalizna Shapka
Stan Lee / Starogard (Old Town)
If my memory serves me right, this was the bar we finished the crawl in, fitting that it ended the S of Steve Davis. Oleh had missed Svit Kavy Irish Coffees though and was still missing one of the “S”s so he went into Stargorod on his own and took a selfie to prove it. We had all completed the epic STEVEN DAVIS PUB CRAWL.
Stan LeeStan LeeStan LeeStan Lee
We all had different drinks on the crawl to spell STEVEN DAVIS. Here were the drinks that I used, some are cocktail and brand names:
Sangria
Tequila
Equal Chances
Vaisburg Umar
Entropia
Negroni
Drunk Cherry
American Red Ale
Vodka
Irish Coffee
Soko Vita
The magic completed surviving piece of paper:
Please don’t take my Davis away
All three of us completed the pub crawl with aplomb and the next day despite a huge hangover, I made it to the bar to watch Northern Ireland v. Belarus live. We watched it in an even different bar from the pub crawl venues and all my previous bar visits in Lviv – Fun Club.
