“We got a love that ain’t got no name. We kiss our love with lips like pain. I said Oh Ho” – Brett Anderson (Suede).
The Day I Met My Ex-Girlfriend in Antarctica
OK so…on my travels I often told this story to people who were somehow fascinated. But now, almost 8 years on, it’s not such a fantasy or a dream any more. That’s all been and gone. But, yes, I met my ex-girlfriend, Panny Yu, the travelling Hong Kong girl in Antarctica back in 2010.
You met your ex-girlfriend in Antarctica?
Yes, and we even met the very night we first stepped on Antarctic land. Whether it was love over staring at penguins or at being so far away from the busy boring office world or whatever, we met each other in Antarctica. We both boarded a boat to Antarctica in November 2010 and had never met before or had any idea where life was taking us. On the first night after landing in Antarctica for the first time, we were sitting at the same table together over dinner and got talking and introduced. She was travelling alone and I was too. As fate would have it we were both heading to Montevideo in Uruguay where we met up later. That was November 2010. Only the Gods know how this all came together.
“There’s four and twenty million doors on life’s endless corridor” – Noel Gallagher.
Touring Barrientos in Antarctica in 2010Yeah baby – arrival in Antarctica at Barrientos in 2010. One of my best travel moments from a decade of nomadery.
It’s thanks to my ex-girlfriend also that I brought you the story on how to get to Antarctica on the cheap, as she did it on the cheap. I wasn’t jealous that she had got the trip for $2,000 US dollars less than me, I was just happy for her. After all I had paid extra for the comfort and advantage of knowing I was definitely going. I booked my trip 6 months in advance from cash gained while harvesting broccoli 12 hours a day for over a month.
The beach and landscape at Barrientos Island, Antarctica
Looking back, the memories of the night I met Panny Yu are distant and hazy but the date was clear. The date we first met and spoke was November 8th 2010. In fact, I officially saw Panny on the 6th November 2010 but only on the boat as she walked past me with a green jumper, and later was in my drilling club for life jacket safety as we were leaving behind the port of Ushuaia. At the time, I had recently turned 30 and was about to live out a dream of having visiting 50 countries and all 7 continents by the age of 30 (though Africa had to wait 3 more months – it was actually my final continent). I was single and I was still torn by the Hungarian dancer Noemi, who rarely ever leaves my mind in a day, and probably never will. I had no plans for new love and certainly hadn’t been kissing or flirting with girls. I was into backpacking and football and trying to meet honest and nice people. I was eager to visit Bolivia, Peru, Paraguay and Uruguay on that trip. I had no plans but I was blogging almost every day.
Arrival in Antarctica at Barrientos. Panny Yu, unmet.
Then she came along…Panny Yu.
Panny Yu, The travelling Hong Kong girl I met in Antarctica and dated for 5 years
After our first ever landing on Barrientos, Antarctica the whole boat was buzzing. We had lived out that dream and could now concentrate on enjoying the rest of the trip knowing we had stepped on Antarctic land. The $5000 US I spent on it had been worth it – money I worked hard to earn on the broccoli fields of Tasmania. It was dinner time on board our ship, the MS Expedition. One table had an empty seat. So…I sat in it. And this was the table and the night when I first met Panny Yu. Just before that we had a champagne reception to celebrate our landing. I wasn’t dressed up for this. As ever, I wore my Northern Ireland football shirt.
“Don’t ever change” – Ian Brodie.
The champagne dinner on board the boat, the night I met Panny YuThe champagne dinner on board the boat, the night I met Panny Yu
I had been drinking champagne with tour mates Scott and Suman just minutes before I met Panny Yu.
The champagne dinner on board the boat, the night I met Panny Yu
And so I walked over to this table…
The table where I met Panny Yu in Antarctica
and this is the table where Panny Yu and I first chatted, first exchanged eye contact, first looked at each other, first laughed together.
Also on the table was John, our excellent guide and Paul Gray, who was to become a friend who I also met later in Poland and England on my journeys.
“Funny how it always goes in love, when you don’t look, you find” – Rita Coolidge.
The Captain’s champagne dinner on board the boat, the night I met Panny Yu
Here’s what Panny Yu and I ate that night…
Dinner the night I met Panny Yu in AntarcticaDinner the night I met Panny Yu in AntarcticaDinner the night I met Panny Yu in AntarcticaDinner the night I met Panny Yu in Antarctica
The comedy?
There was a funny moment though – at first I thought Panny’s name was Penny!! Yes, really! But later that night, I had a cocktail and a beer and it was now Panny, it was clear I had misheard her. I had a new friend, from Hong Kong. I didn’t know that then we would end up living together, getting engaged, and visiting EVERY continent together and 44 countries. But that’s what later happened. Just look at what we did together – mind blowing
– hiked the highest peak of Central America
– did our diving certificates in Honduras
– got engaged in Sai Kung, Hong Kong
– watched the Mass Games in North Korea
– hiked the world’s 20th highest mountain, Mount Kinabalu
– visited all 7 continents together (we finished with Africa in March 2015 – we had both finished all continents separately by 2010-2011)
– visited 44 countries (the last of these, was to be Tunisia, in fact…)
Panny and I hiking in GeorgiaPanny and I at a marvellous viewpoint in Sidi Bou Said, Tunisia
Panny and I mutually split in 2015, around 5 years to the day that we got together. I had lived in Hong Kong and Asia for so long and was glad to be back in Europe. I needed to be in Europe and she needed to be in Asia. Our relationship filtered out and we stayed friends for the first 13 months after the split. Then she decided to block me, so I blocked her contact back and decided never to see her again.
November was the month where I met 5 of my ex-girlfriends and lovers. It was always November and I remembered the dates when I met these five girls – Lauren, Noemi, Panny, Ola, Monika.
Weirdly that night, in November 2010 at the captain’s dinner, we found out that the captain was Bulgarian and my drinking buddy that night, was Lukasz who was Polish.
Four years later, while I was backpacking in Romania (and still in a strong relationship with Panny Yu) I was to meet a Bulgarian based Polish girl who somehow worked her way into my life, later ruining this blog and my story with her lies. Of course at the time, that girl would only be a travel friend and to clear up any situation on here, I had no interest of dating anyone else or splitting from Panny Yu until November 2015. She didn’t either. I don’t even remember the date we agreed to split, but it was mutual and both of us were single and would remain single and dateless for at least 7 months.
We cannot rewind time.
Panny and I parted ways, but we stayed honest and true. That’s all I ever want in life from people – honesty.
Perhaps one day, the liar that later ruined my life will come clean and admit her lies and apologise. That’s all I live for.
Love with Panny has been and gone…thanks Panny!
Panny trying Semla in Stockholm, SwedenPanny and I meet Mr. Pat Tayto himself.Panny Yu and I deep sea diving off the coast of Honduras.Just Panny and I in BelizePanny and I in our kayaks ready to sail on Lago Atitlan, Guatemala.Panny delivers the perfect Guinness in Dublin!Panny Yu and my travelling Northern Ireland flag in Azerbaijan watching Northern Ireland in 2013Panny and I relaxing enjoying the Kaluts desert in Iran.Panny Yu and I in Delaney’s Hong KongAll ready to go at the National Park entrance – Panny Yu (Travelling Hong Kong girl) and I!Caught on camera – myself and Panny Yu photographed in the main square in Shuhe Old Town by a passer by!First proper date with Panny in Montevideo, Uruguay (November 2010)Panny in the front row for the parade in Pyongyang, North Korea
After going inside our first Earthen Building of the Fujian Tour, our driver dropped us off for a few minutes to capture the small settlement of Tian Luo Keng. We had two stops in total for Tian Luo Keng, the first one was from below where we could gaze upwards at this mountainside settlement of Earthen Buildings.
We parked at the foot of the hill. It was around 10 am and we could gaze up at this settlement halfway up the mountains.
The views are immense. Layered fields, some still used for rice plantations adorn the mountain and hillsides.
In front of the Earthen Buildings at Tian Luo Keng. A Tulou cluster.
Panny in front of the Earthen Buildings of Tian Luo Keng. It was here where Panny explained a few bits and pieces to me about these buildings. This particular set is often nicknamed “four dishes and one soup” due to their appearance from above as looking like a meal table set. Tian Luo Keng also translates into English as “snail pit”
Panny and I enjoy the view at the bottom of Tian Luo Keng. It is officially known as the Tian Luo Keng Tulou Cluster. There are a total of five noble buildings here – 3 circles, an oval and a square in shape. It is possible to spend the night in one of these buildings, but we were already staying in Taxia Village nearby at the Qingde Building. The building you can stay in is called Ruiyun Lou.
The countryside setting is also fabulous.
Then we get back in the car and our driver takes us to the top, for a view looking down on the cluster. Wehave to pay 100 Yuan to get in, though this is included in the tour cost. It seems a bit of a rip off though, as all you get for this is entrance to a ledge to view the cluster from. The driver also lies to us telling us you cannot go inside the buildings at Tian Luo Keng.
These buildings then are known as Tulou and were started by a group of people or a tribe or family known as The Hakka (totally different to the New Zealand dance by the way). They are mostly in Yongding County. During the Jin Dynasty of AD 265 – 314, the Hakka people of northwest China moved to these southern regions and provinces, Jiangxi, Fujian and Guangdong and set up these Tulou buildings to protect them from bandits and wild animals.
Flying the Northern Ireland flag overlooking the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster.
A few couple shots overlooking the cluster.
What’s also interesting is how these buildings were built and the purpose of them. They were built using a variety of local materials. Rammed earth, glutinous rice, wood and even bamboo. The word “clan” can describe the groups of people that were housed within, though as most of them are related, family is also acceptable. These clans still live here, generations on, proving the cheapness and longevity of these amazing structures.
Panny and I enjoyed the view down and asked about going inside, sadly we didn’t get a chance. But we were inside about 4 or 5 other Tulou style buildings during the day anyway.
Panny Yu looks down on Tianluokeng. It was also Panny’s first time here in this area, despite the fact that she has travelled in China extensively on many occassions.
An overview of the location of Tian Luo Keng – against a backdrop so so typical of Chinese countryside.
The entrance gate. Again 100 Yuan was very pricey and all we got for that was the view, and a ticket:
The ticket front and back, all in Chinese of course and it also shows the geographic location of Tian Luo Keng.
A few more countryside shots.
If these photos appear a bit repetitive then it’s because THIS WAS IT. You simply go in, stand on a balcony and get your photos. You couldn’t walk around the village or go any further down. In fact with soldiers on the gates, it really did feel like a communist bit of tourism. You can see this and stand here, but nothing else!
View right into one of the circular Tulou buildings. You can see people’s washing hanging up.
More close ups as that was as good as it got. Not to worry as the rest of the tour we would be right inside the other Tulou buildings in various parts of the Fujian Province.
Layered hillsides.
Fujian mountainous wilderness.
Entrance turnstiles. A bit over elaborate for what is just a balcony.
The small settlement also had a police station. It seemed odd and out of place. I also couldn’t imagine anyone causing any trouble at this particular tourist spot.
The view on round the hills where we were heading next. When we left Tian Luo Keng, we were off to a local village called Pushan Village (which has 3 different parts and names).
Our car for the day – just to mention once again that our driver was a wanker, here is some information on him:
On a final note and every part of this tour will get this – Make sure you avoid this horrible guy and tour company for the day. His name translated into English is something like Sau Jun. He’s a dickhead! Pity really as the Fujian Province is stunning.
Entrance sign shows the cluster lit up at night, which we would have got to see had we stayed overnight there.
Where and What – Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster, Tian Luo Keng Village, Shuyang Township, Nanjing County, Zhangzhou City, Fujian Province, CHINA
Tianluokeng tulou cluster (田螺坑土楼群) is one of the better known groups of Fujian Tulou. It is located in Fujian province, Zhangzhou City,Nanjing County, Shuyang Township, Tian Luo Keng Village (literally “Snail Pit” Village) in southern China.
The cluster consists of a square earth building at the center of a quincunx, surrounded by four round earth buildings (or more exactly, 3 round earth buildings and one oval shape earth building), figuratively nicknamed “四菜一汤, Si cai yi tang” (four dishes with a soup).
A tulou (lit. “earth building”) is a unique architecture found only in the mountainous areas bordering Fujian and Guangdong in southern China. The “Earth building” is an enclosed buildings, usually square or circular in shape, with a very thick earth wall (up to 6 feet thick) and wooden skeletons, from three to five storeys high, housing up to 80 families. These earth buildings have only one entrance, guarded by 4–5-inch-thick (100–130 mm) wooden doors re-enforced with an outer shell of iron plate. The top level of these earth building have gun holes for defence against bandits. In spite of the earth wall, some of them are more than 700 years old, surviving thru centuries of natural elements, including earthquakes, yet still standing solid. There are more than 35,000 earth buildings to be found in southern China, among them a little over 3,000 have been classified as Fujian Tulou
The five earth buildings at the Snail Pit village are:
The square earth building named Buyun building(Reaching the Cloud building) at the center of the quincunx. It was the first earth building at this site, built in 1796. It is three storeys high, each storey has 26 rooms, four sets of stairs, and a circular corridor in front of the rooms. The Buyun building was burnt down by bandits in 1936, and rebuilt in 1953 according to the original shape.
The Hechang building, a three storey high round earth building,
Zhenchang building, three storey, round shape, 26 rooms per storey, built in 1930
Ruiyun building, built in 1936,
The last Wenchang building of 1966, 3 storeys, 32 rooms per storey.
The cluster is located about four hours drive by motor coach or taxi from Xiamen, through winding and bumpy narrow mountain roads (Fujian Provincial Highway 309 (S309), or county roads).
Our tour of traditional Fujian Earthen style buildings started properly at the Yuchang Earthen Building. Although we had already checked into our hostel for the night – a cosy wee room in Qing De Lou building in Taxia Village nearby. So this is the first part of the tour of Fujian. Bear with these posts as the details may not all be entirely correct given the poor translations to English (even in my guide books), but I’ll do the best I can in giving an account of the tour.
So we arrived in Yongding early morning and got a driver to take us to our hostel. We were both a bit tired from the night train (which was also a bit smokey). But after a quick freshening up at the hostel, we were picked up by our driver (not a nice guy as it turns out). His name was Sau Jun, and we definitely don’t recommend him for this type of tour. But the tour began and I was very excited.
We arrived at 8.50 am at the beautiful little Yuchang Earthen Building, shining in the morning sun and situated (wait for it) in Xiaban Village in Shuyang Town in Nanjing County in Fujian Province in The People’s Republic of China. Even that is shortening it. And it gets confusing as this exact building according to the books and maps is in about 6 different villages with different names! Anyway we arrived here!
The sign on the entrance was in English as well, I hadn’t expected that. But there are some question marks in the translation, still a nice overview.
Panny inside the Yuchang Building.
To the right once you enter. It’s quite an amazing wooden structure and shows the longevity of the design, this one was actually built between 1308 and 1338.
Jonny.
Panny.
Us two together in Yuchang Earthen Building.
View from the front entrance of Yuchang Earthen Building.
Panny and I carried both of our cameras on the day. This way we get way too many photos, but at least if one battery runs out or a camera breaks we still have them.
Panny by the pretty river and bridge from which the entrance to the Yuchang building looks out over.
Out the front of the Yuchang building.
And with the sign for it. In Chinese of course. Despite looking hot, you can tell by my wearing of a grey fleece that it was actually a bit nippy.
Panny Yu against an impressive backdrop and the Yuchang Building.
I took this of the actual village the Yuchang Building is in. Forgive the poor quality photos – this was my old camera. I have a habit of ruining the centre part of my camera lenses. Managed to do this somehow with my 2 most recent cameras. Both, are now confined to the bin or the Nam Song river in Laos.
We didn’t have to pay into the Yuchang building, because Panny had booked an all inclusive tour, but we got to keep our tickets – this was the entrance here.
Wonderful souvenirs on display. I’m a sucker for these.
More souvenirs.
Flying the Northern Ireland flag in the Yuchang Building. I’d estimate less than 10 people have ever done that, if even that!
We walked all around the bottom of the Yuchang, but couldn’t get up into the upper tiers (we did this later on in almost all the similar buildings).
Stalls selling goods and offering free tea. The locals get a wee bit of money through tourism, though not enough.
Ticket for part of the tour.
We got to go inside the actual “houses” within. Basically these massive buildings were the homes for over sized families, housed in their own unique village dwelling. Panny’s pointing as a well. I believe this is where they got their water from. It wouldn’t have been hard, the Yuchang building is right beside a river.
Inside the same room – basically a kitchen.
The main drink here is of course tea and in many varieties. The locals offer you free cups, and you don’t actually feel obliged to buy anything. Though Panny and I had a few cups and I picked up a few souvenirs.
Tired eyes, uncombed hair (where was my hat?!) and a morning tea.
One of many teas.
With the local lady who lives there and our tea.
Panny and I enjoy our red tea in the Yuchang.
Some of the living quarters. A small bit of history about the building then – it is often also known as the tilted building, which you cannot see from the outside, but once inside the walls seem to have a slight tilt on them. Especially when you look at some of my photos of the supporting pillars. The greatest slant is at an angle of 15 degrees and these are on the corridors to the right and left as you go in. The building was built by the Liu, Zhang, Luo, Tang and Fan clans in the area and around 1308 – 1938. The Yuchang has 5 storeys.
More gifts. I bought some postcards and Panny bought a replica of the Yuchang for her growing cabinet collection. Each of the 5 storeys has 54 rooms! The entire building is divided into 5 units, with a staircase to each. The 5 clans had their own section then, but now there are only members of the Liu clan who remain there. Something like between 10 – 15 of the actual households are in use. The rest is for tourist purposes and of course the entire Earthen Buildings of Fujian Province are a World Heritage Site.
My brief encounter with some of the Liu clan – the local family. 700 years or so their family heritage, history and ancestry have lived here. Imagine showing them an iPod, credit card or computer. It’s another world.
Religion or belief plays a part and this was the central part of the Yuchang, a place of worship.
Another shot of the river outside.
The Yuchang Building!
Entrance sign for the Yuchang Building. We left after about 45 minutes in fact our tour guide was useless and a bit of a dickhead! He rushed Panny and I but none of that could take the sparkle of our enjoyable visit.
On a final note and every part of this tour will get this – Make sure you avoid this horrible guy and tour company for the day. His name translated into English is something like Sau Jun. He’s a dickhead! Pity really as the Fujian Province is stunning.
Where and What – Yuchanglou, or Yuchang Earthen Building (Chinese:裕昌楼), is located in Xiaban Village, Nanjing County, Zhangzhou city. Built in 1368 in later Yuan Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty with an area of 2289 square meters, Yuchanglou is the existing largest and oldest round earthen building in Nanjing County.
The joys of night trains continues. I love them. This one was organised by my girlfriend Panny as we planned a weekend in China in March this year. We arrived in Shenzhen after crossing the border into China from Hong Kong and were booked on the 21.23 pm night train north east to Yongding in China.
K636 – our departure.
Busy waiting lounge for K636. The joy of being the only foreigner/Gwhy Low in the train station.
Welcome to Shenzhen and goodbye to Shenzhen.
Last call for our night train north east to Yongding.
Basic and blue and white – our night train before leaving Shenzhen.
Panny and I had both just finished work hence the attire and the need for a relaxing night train. Incidentally these are some of the first proper photos of me in China for FIVE YEARS. Despite visiting Hong Kong and Taiwan, I class them both as separate countries given their political systems, own currencies, own borders, separate visa controls, national flags and of course own football teams. So they don’t count. Neither to airport visits to Beijing twice and Guangzhou!
Panny on her bed for the night. She was bottom bunk. I always prefer one of the top bunks. There were 3 bunks.
The top two bunks. I was the middle bunk. Panny down below.
It’s the life. Being served by a trolley. Food and drinks. Having said that, Panny and I are true budgeters. I already had a COLD Guinness and Polar Ice beer in my bag as well as biscuits and chocolate. We also had water and orange juice with us, so no need to buy anything.
The corridor.
Enjoying my cold Polar Ice beer as our train headed out of Shenzhen.
Our plastic berth tickets for our beds. Not everyone pays for a bed you see. When you exit the train you swap these for your ticket again.
Panny and I on the night train. We left Shenzhen just after 21.23, so almost on time.
The couple relaxing across from us – they enjoyed the view of Shenzhen, itself a massive city!
Panny and I relax on her bed.
Just before bed I had a Guinness and enjoyed the bright lights of Shenzhen from my window. The bottom two bunks have a window view, the top one not.
Leaving Shenzhen.
Our train tickets which say Shen Zhen to Long Yan. That was the route we were on, but we were due to get off around 5am in Yong Ding, just south of Long Yan.
I was in bed and asleep before midnight and awoke a few times as we had 3 or 4 night time stops, took this photo at one of them, but it was so dark I have no idea what station that is. I was listening to Neil Finn music on my iPod. First time I’d listened to his solo stuff in years. Amazing!
We both slept pretty well but Panny was more astute and aware of the time we would need to get off. I had reckoned around 5am, but she woke me at 4.50 am to say we were here. Quickly put on my socks and shoes and grabbed my bag and we had arrived! In the above pre- sunrise darkness of Yongding! Panny had arranged for a local driver to pick us up there and take us to the hostel – a Fujian style building in a village called Taxia. The building was called Qing De Lou building and in a place called Ta Pa Tsune (at least that’s how I’d write it in English). It was time to change, recharge and enjoy the Fujian province of China!
From – Shenzhen
To – Yongding
Via – Meizhou
Transport Used – Night Train, then a hired driver in his car (cheaper than a taxi)
Strange Currencies – Chinese Yuan (also called RMB and Renminbi)
Nationalities Met – Chinese
Price of Train Ticket – 185 RMB (Yuan)
Key Song –
NEIL FINN – TRY WHISTLING THIS:
My Videos –
IN SHENZHEN BY THE TRAIN STATION:
ABOUT TO BOARD THE TRAIN FROM SHENZHEN TO YONGDING:
PANNY AND I ON OUR NIGHT TRAIN:
LEAVING SHENZHEN STATION ON THE NIGHT TRAIN:
SHENZHEN SUBURBS AT NIGHT FROM THE NIGHT TRAIN:
CHINESE COUNTRYSIDE FROM NIGHT TRAIN:
ARRIVAL IN YONGDING AT 4.50 AM, FUJIAN, CHINA:
CAR RIDE FROM YONGDING TRAIN STATION TO QING DE LOU HOSTEL IN TAXIA VILLAGE, FUJIAN, CHINA:
After the busy day on the DMZ Tour where we crammed a lot in and totally enjoyed ourselves, it was time to hand in our badges at the JSA and board our bus back to Seoul where we were staying in Fully House Hostel in Hyewha. It was still daylight as we left the 4 kilometre stretch of the DMZ and headed back to civilisation and safety.
We were on the left hand side of the bus on the journey back. There were 2 bus changes during the day, and we were lucky enough to be on the right hand side for the Panmunjom bit where North Korea was to the right hand window side. Here on the way back, we just enjoyed the comfort of a hot bus and some boring TV. Panny watched TV and drifted to sleep. I read up more on North Korea, updated my notes and admired my souvenirs from the day.
One last photo of us on the bus before we headed back to Seoul. The DMZ tour had been amazing. Over and out!
A few final videos…
ON BOARD THE BUS ON THE DMZ TOUR:
DRINKING NORTH KOREAN BLUEBERRY WINE:
WALKING INTO NORTH KOREA, BEST MOMENT OF THE TRIP:
Hong Kong To China Border: Sheung Shui, Lo Wu and Shenzhen
The three places that this report will be based on are Sheung Shui, Lo Wu and Shenzhen. All three of which are basically the border between Hong Kong and China. A busy border, and of course the closest border to where I live here in Hong Kong. I had never been to any of those places until March of this year, when I was at all three places in one evening on route to the Fujian Province of China with my girlfriend Panny Yu.
After working in Tsuen Wan, it was Friday night and time for a weekend break to China, so I headed straight from work on the Hong Kong MTR system to a place called Sheung Shui. My reason for going there was partly because I finished work earlier than Panny and had time to kill, but also cleverly that if you get out at Sheung Shui station and hang around for half an hour, you actually save money on your journey. Because that way you are not taking a direct straight trip to the border. Thanks to Panny then that I went from Tsuen Wan to Prince Edward on the Tsuen Wan line. I changed at Prince Edward onto the Kwun Tong line, and then I changed again at Kowloon Tong onto the light blue line and got out at Sheung Shui.
It was still daylight and around 6.10 pm when I got out at Sheung Shui. I had a wee walk around taking various shots of the buildings. There were not many foreigners about in this area. And it’s not common for people heading to China to get out here. Most are in too much of a rush and too busy, so they head straight to Lo Wu (the last station in Hong Kong before the border).
Typical Sheung Shui housing. In fact, these are pretty typical of Hong Kong as a whole, however the further out of the city you get, the stronger the Chinese influence.
I found the Metropolis Plaza and thought I could pop for a beer and a bite somewhere and text Panny. But all I could find were the usual suspects – shopping centre style restaurants and fast food outlets.
Metropolis Plaza at Sheung Shui.
So in the end I couldn’t find a bar. I love to relax with a beer, particularly when I’m on holiday. So I settled for Burger King. This was only my second ever Burger King in Hong Kong. Whopper meal with Cream Soda. While I munched on it, I was texting Panny who was now finished work and on course to meet up with me at Lo Wu, before crossing into China.
It was now dark in Sheung Shui – the main streets of this town captured in their evening glory.
As with most towns and parts of Hong Kong, there is more than one shopping centre. This one was also busy, and indeed was where the Burger King was.
A map of Sheung Shui.
I picked up some juice, snacks and a few tins of beer for the trip. Once in Shenzhen we would get a night-train towards Longyan (but stop in Yungding).
From Sheung Shui there are two routes to take, both leave you right on the Chinese border. One is to Lok Ma Chau, the other to Lo Wu. It doesn’t really matter where you stand on the platform as you just need to get on the right train. I kept waiting for a Lo Wu one. And when one arrived it was full and Panny told me she was on it. I couldn’t get in so had to wait another 4 minutes.
My train to Lo Wu was arriving. This was March 2012. I had been to China first in July 2007 on my round the world trip. And officially at least, I had landed three further times in China during the intervening years (none of those times leaving the airports at either Beijing – twice, or Guangzhou – once). And for the record, I don’t count Hong Kong, Macau or Taiwan as China. Given they all have separate visa regulations, currencies and the ultimate in national separatism: an international football team!
If you didn’t know the route, it’s clearly marked here. From the yellow dot of Sheung Shui, you have two choices of your onward trip to China. We were headed for Shenzhen therefore Lo Wu would be the venue of our border control.
Leaving Sheung Shui station. In rush hour.
My packed train from Sheung Shui to Lo Wu.
At Lo Wu, I joined the queue for Hong Kong immigration.
I was able to join the queue for “Hong Kong Residents” given I owned a Hong Kong ID card.
The blur and busy border departure from Hong Kong before cameras are banned and I met up with Panny in between leaving Hong Kong and entering China. It was a 15 minute process, all indoors, and all straight forward. I had got myself a double entry visa for China this time, as I’m very keen to explore more of it, given its history, size and proximity.
Panny Yu and I safely and happily arrive in China. This taken in the immigration building once through passport control. We had arrived in Shenzhen!
The madness of a Friday night influx of people to the border building at Shenzhen.
Out into the open Chinese air. For the first time in FIVE years!
A photo looking back to the border building entrance, behind which, by some 500 metres lies Lo Wu and the country of Hong Kong.
Looking a little business man like on arrival in Shenzhen. Feeling happy to be travelling again, albeit for just 2 nights and days!
View looking back to Hong Kong again from Shenzhen.
Shenzhen train station.
I was quick off the mark, making up for a five year absence (since Tiananmen Gate) of flying the Northern Ireland flag in China.
We had about 40 minutes or so before our night train would depart towards Longyan. It gave us time to go to the toilet, check our platform, buy some water etc. and for Panny to eat.
Inside Shenzhen train station.
This was our train. Although it was heading for Fu Zhou, we had tickets for Longyan and would get out at Yungding.
Shenzhen station was quite busy, our train also would be.
Chinese people hanging around at Shenzhen train station.
I was actually surprised to see some information written in English. I should enjoy it while it lasts. As dawn broke and we arrived in Fujian province, the only English writing would be in my notebook…
You don’t need me to translate this one into English for you. Panny also went for cheap and easy fast food. Strangely her fillet of fish meal would have been cheaper in Hong Kong!
We had time to walk around the train station and capture Shenzhen at night. Panny had never actually been to Shenzhen apart from passing through it. In essence both of us still haven’t.
Shenzhen by night.
Two tickets for Long Yan please. After Panny had eaten and we went to the toilet, it was time to board yet another night train on yet another journey on this round ball. This was the 9th different country Panny and I had been in together across 4 continents (we’re now up to 12 countries across 5 continents). The journey will continue…
From – Tsuen Wan, HONG KONG
To – Shenzhen, CHINA
Via – Sheung Shui, Lo Wu
Transport Used – Hong Kong MTR, Chinese Railways
Nationalities Met – Hong Kongese, Chinese, Northern Irish (me)
Beers – Polar Ice and Guinness (for the night train)
Food – Fast (Burger King and McDonalds)
Strange Currencies – Hong Kong Dollars, Chinese Yuan (RMB)
Key Song –
PAUL MCCARTNEY – SLOW BOAT TO CHINA (COVER VERSION):
My Videos –
FRIDAY NIGHT AT SHEUNG SHUI, HONG KONG:
AT LO WU, BORDER FROM HONG KONG TO CHINA:
ARRIVAL IN SHENZHEN ACROSS THE BORDER INTO CHINA:
PANNY AND I OUTSIDE THE TRAIN STATION AT SHENZHEN, CHINA:
PANNY AND I AT SHENZHEN TRAIN STATION BOARDING THE NIGHT TRAIN TO YUNG DING:
ON THE SHENZHEN TO YUNG DING NIGHT TRAIN ABOUT TO LEAVE SHENZHEN:
DMZ Tour Part 8: Stepping Into North Korea at Panmunjom
On a cold afternoon with a clear sky ahead and a beating down sun, Panny Yu and I stepped nonchalantly across the border from South Korea into North Korea. Or, as it should be officially from the Republic of Korea into the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. This border is one of the most dangerous political and geographical borders in the world. Ironic then, that our crossing of it was the most hassle free and safest border crossing either of us had ever done. So while essentially we both stepped in North Korea and can say we have been there, our experience in the DPR Korea at Panmunjom was perhaps a little less authentic or unique than having a cup of tea with Kim Jong Un himself. Facts aside, this was still a venture into the unknown, yet we were on a guided tour of the DMZ, as guests of the United Nations. A lot easier to get booked on and organise than you would believe. I booked it for us to do it on Christmas Eve 2011 through a tour company in Seoul.
Wearing hats, scarves and coats and braving the snow, ice and minus degrees “Panny and I got on the bus to North Korea”. It was our second bus of the day. We first got a bus from Seoul up to the DMZ where we visited Paju, Imjingak, Dorasan Station and The Third Tunnel before boarding our second bus, manned by a guy from the US Army. A couple of photos of our bus above. All the other passengers were tourists like ourselves, mostly either Chinese or European. South Koreans cannot do this tour of course. The tension in the DMZ is high, and there are certain regulations. No signs or politicial logos or emblems, stay calm and quiet. It’s all very by the book and strict. We were even told not to take photos and videos at certain points on the tour, but we saw other people doing it so why not eh? I was enjoying the tour immensely so far, a real eye opener and then I was anticipating the moment we arrived at Panmunjom. This part of the tour I deemed to be the best, as not only would we be officially able to step into North Korea, but we could see North Korean soldiers there, we could see the flag of North Korea and stare into the sparse countryside on the communist side of the DMZ. Communist, Stalinist or Totalitarian, call it what you want. I was highly enthusiastic at this point.
At the JSA (Joint Security Area) we boarded our bus to Panmunjom. The US Soldier on our bus was very knowledgeable and informative and gave a detailed description of the area and the tension within on the journey to Panmunjom, this can also be read here in Part 7 – The JSA . That part of the report may help you to understand the difference between the various terms used on the DMZ Tour – i.e. The DMZ (De-militarised Zone), The JSA (Joint Security Area), Camp Bonfas, The Truce Village. For the benefit of this report however, I will simply refer to the countries as North Korea and South Korea, and to this border crossing place as simply Panmunjom. On the bus to Panmunjom we are joined by a US Army Soldier who is stationed out in the DMZ. He gives us some information and the do’s and don’t’s.
On the bus on the way in we catch our first glimpses of North Korea, nestled in the distant countryside behind the fields and trees. Then we pull up outside a grey building with a large staircase. We are in Panmunjom. We are on the South Korean side of it.
Our UNCMAC badges.
A model of what Panmunjom looks like.
A good old travelling friend of mine, Ian “Skin” McKinney and his wife Olwyn had done the whole DMZ tour about a year or so before us. They had been living out in South Korea at the time, both hailing from Northern Ireland like myself and had given me a few tips and inspiration to follow them. Panny and I had always planned to visit North Korea, and to first see the DMZ was a good start for us. Trips to Pyongyang and the rest of North Korea pretty much all leave from China (either by flight, or even by train) so this was a bit less special but none the less exciting. Entering North Korea at Panmunjom is was like ringing the back door bell and bolting. We were in and out of the country almost without the North Koreans knowing who or what we were. There needs to be a cut off point somewhere, and so it is here at Panmunjom. The official border therefore, between the two countries happens here in Panmunjom. We arrive at the top of a staircase and we look north wards. The wonderful little sky blue huts are right in front of us. They look pretty in the afternoon sun. They are all guarded on our side by South Korean guards in Taekwando Stance. In behind these blue huts lies one of the world’s enigmas. A country we know little about. One of the last remaining fragments of Stalin’s empire. This country in front of our eyes is North Korea or The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea.
We have a few minutes outside at the top of the stairs and we are told we can take photos and videos facing into North Korea. But we are not allowed to take photos facing into the country we are in, South Korea. I didn’t find out the proper reason for this, but assumed it probably to be that the South Koreans didn’t want the North Korean soldiers to see people taking photos of their own buildings and facing the other way. I loved the setting of it all. The clear blue sky, the snow, the masses of soldiers, the charming blue huts, the sparse trees. And North Korea.
Typical South Korea Soldier stance facing north into North Korea.
To the far right at Panmunjom. The white building in behind may well be fully in North Korea, the other one straddles the border and is owned by North Korea. We weren’t allowed in.
Panny Yu at Panmunjom. All smiles and with North Korea only metres behind her.
North Korea in behind me and my Glentoran scarf on. The Northern Ireland – Republic of Ireland border used to be heavily manned, but this was something else.
Panny and I safely in South Korea for now. Soon to step into one of the Blue Huts known as the MAC Building and forward into North Korea.
South Korean Soldier.
North Korean building and soldier at Panmunjom. This fellow was the first ever North Korean person I have seen for real in my life. Assuming he was for real.
This brown sign denotes that the building behind is the United Nations Command Military Armistice Commission Conference Building. This is often just referred to as The Mac Building, so we’ll go with that. No idea who left their handbag hanging from the door knob in the above photo. For the first time ever on this blog that is probably an OK moment to say “lol”. I just hope there isn’t a suspicious package inside it.
After getting our photos and staring into North Korea, it was time to actually go inside the hut itself for another short briefing.
The North Korean building on the other side of the border. They deliberately built it higher than the South Korean one so that they could “win” and “see further into the other country”.
Another of these little Blue Huts. This one was also open but we didn’t go in.
Panny Yu had been to South Korea before, but wasn’t allowed on this DMZ Tour when she visited. So it was nice for her to be with me on our first Christmas Eve together to cross the border at Panmunjom.
All the North Korean windows in this building give nothing away. There are probably soldiers behind the curtains. Or the building may even not be in use apart from the ground floor soldiers. We don’t really know.
A couple of last photos in South Korea before we are escorted single file into the MAC Building.
This guy in the middle of the photo gives us a quick briefing and tells us that we must go on the right hand side of the table if we want to stand in the North Korean side.
This microphone in the MAC Building picks up and records everything that is said or done and is available to those on both sides. It also marks the border itself between the two countries.
A lot of the tour group rushed to the other side. It really was the most odd and bizarre border ever. Of course it’s all inside this hut, but once you are on the North Korean side there is a door on the other side of the room and you can enter if you really want. It would probably be the door to no return. You may be captured, shot or killed, and for sure your life would never be the same again. But actually we don’t really know.
We were stepping into North Korea the very week that Kim Jong Il had just died, which added to the experience of the trip. A few days before there had been some strange activity in and around the DMZ. Panny even thought our trip may be cancelled in the wake of his death. For me it gave an added bit of excitement to the trip. The day we were there, he had already died but had not yet had his funeral or official send off.
And so myself and Panny walked to the other side of the room in the MAC Building at Panmunjom. By doing so we had left the democratic South Korea for the communist dictatorship of North Korea. But without all the madness of visas, passport stamps, bag checks etc. It was very well organised and simple. No nervosity or anxiousness or anything. Being in the DMZ you knew it was a tense area, but it’s a 4 kilometre wide de-militarised zone, and on the South Korean side at least, all very tourist friendly.
Here my right foot is in North Korea and my left foot is in South Korea.
I was stood on the actual border when I took this photo. The South Korean Soldier on the other side is standing in both countries for most of his shift. The guy in the grey top on the left is in South Korea. The other guy is in North Korea.Well, you’ve got to draw the line somewhere!
Panny stares at the soldier and the door behind. That is the real entrance to North Korea. We’re just in a hut!
Out the window at the next building and two more South Korean Soldiers.
Panny stands in North Korea by the entrance door to Kim Jong Un’s land next to a South Korean Soldier.
Panny Yu does North Korea.
It was time for my first ever photo in North Korea.
Standing in North Korea in the MAC Building at Panmunjom, DMZ. Christmas Eve 2011.
The light blue door to North Korea. You can go on in, NOBODY is stopping you. Unsurprisingly nobody on our tour went through it.
A heater on the North Korean side of the border. I wonder who was paying the bills for it.
North Korea from North Korea. Yes I was on the North Korean side of the MAC Building when I took this photo.
Staring directly north in the MAC Building from the North Korean side.
Panny with the Soldier manning the actual border. She’s in North Korea here. The UN flag marks the border.
Same for me – note that in North Korea they use exactly the same plugs and sockets!
North Korea, well what we saw of it on this trip.
The beautiful countryside of North Korea, viewed from Panmunjom.
More North Korean trees.
A photo of Panny and I in with both countries in it.
The typical scene all tourists see at Panmunjom.
Panmunjom, North Korea and South Korea.
A US Soldier and some South Korean Soldiers in this photo.
Just a few more photos of Panmunjom from the best vantage point in the middle.
View from the window of the South Korean dude.
Panny took this one – love the icicles dripping from the roof and the snow. It really was a cold day. Minus 10 degrees or something.
Icicles and soldier.
The above photo is the only one of Panny and I both in North Korea! We had to quickly grab someone to help us take it, we were the last ones out of the hut. There was a funny moment here as we had to rush and Panny told me it was OK to walk behind the Soldier. However he attacked me with his arms as I tried to do so (though realised I didn’t know about it) and I quickly walked back into North Korea! You have to walk back into South Korea on the same side of the table that you walked in. So I was actually attacked by a soldier in North Korea! Interesting experience but the bus was waiting and we got to see a bit more of North Korea from the bus before the tour was due to come to a close.
Bidding farewell to Panmunjom. Just under 2 years later, Panny and I went to the DMZ on the North Korea side, where Robert and I necked a Guinness tin. It was much more relaxed in the north.
Without further ado and over in a flash, we had stepped into North Korea in the MAC Building, got our photos, went the wrong way back across the border and were now safely back in South Korea. The oddest of border experiences of my life so far, but a very enjoyable one.
Where – The MAC Building, Panmunjom, DMZ, Korea (North and South)
What – The official area on the border of North and South Korea where official meetings take place
When – We visited in the wake of Kim Jong Il’s death. Christmas Eve, 24th December 2011
Who – Panny Yu and Jonny Blair
Countries Visited – South Korea, North Korea
Strange Currencies – South Korean Won, North Korean Won
Nationalities I Spoke To – US, South Korean
Nationalities I Saw – US, South Korean, North Korean
Key Song –
NORTH KOREA VS SOUTH KOREA BAD BOYS:
(MUSIC AND DANCE – WELL WORTH A LOOK!)
on a more serious note…
U2 – PEACE ON EARTH:
My Videos –
ACTUALLY WALKING ACROSS THE BORDER FROM SOUTH KOREA INTO NORTH KOREA IN THE MAC BUILDING AT PANMUNJOM:
STARING INTO NORTH KOREA FROM SOUTH KOREA AT PANMUNJOM:
STARING AT NORTH KOREA AND ITS FLAG FROM THE BUS:
Other People’s Videos – THE DMZ AND PANMUNJOM FROM THE OTHER SIDE, A TOUR BASED FROM NORTH KOREA:
A NORTH KOREAN SOLDIER GIVES A SPEECH IN THE MAC BUILDING:
OTHER STRANGE DMZ ACTIVITY THE WEEK OF KIM JONG IL’S DEATH:
POSSIBLY THE TOP FIVE MOST DANGEROUS BORDERS IN THE WORLD: Number 5 – The Demilitarized Zone between North Korea and South Korea is one of the scariest places on Earth. At nearly 150 miles long and 2.5 miles wide and home to 2 million armed troops, it is the world’s most heavily militarized border. Since the 50s, the DMZ has been the site of many incidents including the 1976 one in which North Koreans used axes to kill two US officers while they were cutting a tree.
Number 4 is Pakistan and Afghanistan. With dramatically increased violence in Pakistan and Afghanistan, the tension has continued to rise between the two nations. Both accuse each other for not doing enough to control the insurgent activities across the porous borders which lie along the lawless tribal areas. According to a BBC report, an Afghan official claimed that recently, there have been over 3,000 cross border attacks over a period of 3 months.
Number 3 is Sudan and Chad. Years of conflict has resulted in the border between those countries being extremely volatile. Although in the recent past both countries have created joint forces to control the situation, even today numerous crimes take place including rape, killings, and recruitment of child soldiers.
Number 2 – China and North Korea share close to 900 miles of border. Due to the tough economic conditions, thousands of North Korean refugees have tried to cross the porous border between the two countries. However, if caught, these North Korean refugees are tortured and forcibly sent back. They are likely to face imprisonment and even execution.
Number 1 is India and Pakistan. Since their partition in 1947, these countries have always seemed on the brink of war. After 3 full-scaled wars in the last 65 years, the borders of these 2 nuclear powers are among the most volatile in the world. Daily artillery fires are not unheard of across various border points.
I arrived in Lam Tin after a crazy night out in Australia as I said my goodbyes to the amazing time I had living in the land down under. It was emotional and sad to leave it all behind. But my life had taken me to Lam Tin, an Eastern suburb in the skyscraping metropolis that is Hong Kong. In 2011 I moved to Asia for the first time.
I came here first on holiday to stay for just 6 days with Panny and ended up getting a job, having to work 2 of those days, thus having to quit my job in Australia and start life anew once again, here in Lam Tin.
Lam Tin, means “Blue Field”, of which there aren’t any in the area as it’s all “built up”. The MTR station is decorated in pretty blue though. But there is a lot of green hills, multi- coloured sky scrapers and views down over the city.
The airport bus to Lam Tin. It’s an A22 and I’m oh so familiar with it now – think I’ve used it about 5 or 6 times in the 8 months I’ve been here.
Arrival at the bottom of my new home – the skyscrapers at Hong Pak Court. With a backpack. On a hot day. Ready to move in!
Flying the Northern Ireland flag at Hong Pak Court. Willing to bet nobody else has ever done that.
Our green skyscraper. Shui Pak House. We live on the 21st Floor.
My new bedroom in Lam Tin.
The lounge, including not just Panny my girlfriend, but also her Mum “Batmo” or Yin Ming Tang. A very welcoming family.
The bedroom view out of my window. Incredible for a boy from Marlo in Bangor, where the highest building is probably a church.
The utility room complete with weird laundry bags and countless umbrellas. This is Hong Kong culture.
The kitchen!
First meal that Batmo cooked for me! Spicy pork ribs and rice. The Guinness was my idea. Although the food here is not really my thing, I have tried many and various local cuisines!
The hall way.
The corridor by the flat.
The view from down below.
The car park. Each individual block of flats in the Kong has one massive multi storey car park. They know how to make use of space in the Kong.
The main entrance to Hong Pak Court.
The plan of Hong Pak Court.
Our street.
The local 7-11 Shop.
The night time view from my bedroom.
The run of late night red taxis on our street.
This bus, the 215x is the one I used to get to work when I moved here and worked in Delaney’s Irish Pub in TST. This photo was taken the very first time I got on that bus, just a few hours after arriving in Hong Kong. I had no idea it would become my regular bus!
The local Dim Sum restaurant, which we only ate at once, in May 2011 on my very first day in Hong Kong. It has since changed hands and has a new name. This was the first time I tried “Dim Sum” in Hong Kong – it’s traditional Cantonese cuisine and a Hong Kong institution. Hardly my favourite meal ever but still nice to sample now and then as it’s Panny’s culture.
It’s about a 17 minute walk to the MTR station at Lam Tin (walking south west), and the walk takes you past a cracking view of Hong Kong, busy locals and more shopping centres than my home town put together.
The MTR Station at Lam Tin. A regular hang out for me to and fro.
Another view of the lounge. This comfy yellow settee has since been replaced. The hanging clothes are still there. This is typical of the Kong.
The TV. I have never bought a TV in my life – true story! I did have 2 before – 1 in Northern Ireland and 1 in England – both however were either presents from my parents or their old TVs that were being replaced. I don’t really watch much TV anymore…
With Batmo and with Panny at home in Lam Tin.
The bus park on Pik Wan Road – you can get big buses and mini-buses to places like Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui from here.
At the start the 62S was my common mini-bus to and from Tsim Sha Tsui, where I worked at Delaney’s Irish Pub.
The night time view on the walk from Hong Pak Court down to the MTR station.
My nearest “big” supermarket – this is called “Wellcome” – they are everywhere in the Kong. Note the mis-spelling, which may be a genuine error in fact!
In the flat ready for my first day of work in Hong Kong – first week of June 2011.
Delaney’s Irish Pub in Tsim Sha Tsui. Photos taken from my first day of work in Hong Kong.
First time I got the night bus home from work. The 62S from Tsim Sha Tsui direct to the Kwong Tin Estate, which is the adjacent estate to Hong Pak Court.
However after just over 3 months working in Delaney’s Irish Pub, I am now a teacher here in Hong Kong which is busy and varied!
Strange currencies – Hong Kong Dollars and Cents. Safe to say I’m pretty used to them all by now. Pretty notes they have in the Kong, and you can still use old and new ones together! This includes notes dating back to the British Days, pre July 1997.
The children’s playground at the bottom of our block of flats.
The long street that we live on/off – Pik Wan Road. Was it just a case that we “picked one road”?
A thunderstorm in Lam Tin during my first week here. The umbrella culture here is laughable and to me, ridiculous. They use umbrellas if it spits, if the sun shines and just about in any weather. This gets particularly annoying as they try to poke your eye out. I still have never bought an umbrella in my life and I have no intention to. God gave us rain as a gift. We are blessed.
Night time view of the bottom of our green and white gaping tower block.
My local bus stop where I always got the 215x Bus to Tsim Sha Tsui where I worked when I moved here last year.
More amazing day time views from the bottom of our flat. Just incredible. That’s Hong Kong Island in the background. The buildings on the left are still in Kowloon – just down from us at Yau Tong.
Panny and some of her family in the flat in Lam Tin.
Our local 7-11 shop at night.
The beauty about the view from the bottom of our flat is that is changes all the time. This ones a cracker!
My family have been here too! There’s a few photos from their visit, which was at the end of July and start of August 2011. This was the first time I had seen my family since leaving England in October 2009. I have since been back to Northern Ireland once to visit them. I think they liked Hong Kong, despite the hot climate here. It was the furthest place my sister had ever travelled to.
So that’s my new home – Lam Tin in a nutshell. It’s a busy life living in the Kong that’s for sure – It is almost 9 months since I first arrived here!
Transport Used – MTR train (the tube, the underground, the subway, the metro), Mini-Bus (“See You Pa”), Bus, Car (Panny’s family share one), Taxi.
Our Flat – 21st Floor of Shui Pak House in Hong Pak Court, Lam Tin
Who lives here – Jonny Blair, Panny Yu, Leise Yu, Cara Yu, Batmo, Tinny (the maid)
Strange Currencies – Hong Kong Dollars and Cents
MY VIDEOS:
VIDEO OF THE VIEW TO HONG KONG ISLAND FROM LAM TIN:
1. at sunset
2. during rain
VIDEO FROM BOTTOM OF OUR FLAT IN HONG PAK COURT:
INSIDE THE LOCAL 7-11 IN KWONG TIN ESTATE:
RELAXING WITH PANNY’S MUM WATCHING HONG KONG TV:
TORRENTIAL RAIN FROM MY BEDROOM WINDOW IN LAM TIN:
