Africa

Friday’s Featured Food: Rabbit 🐇On New Year’s Eve At Chez Laetitia in Abidjan, Ivory Coast 🇨🇮

Posted on January 19, 2025 by Jonny Blair

“Another year over; a new one just begun” – John Lennon.

I found myself back in Ivory Coast at the end of 2024, and this is where Marek and I celebrated New Year’s Eve 2024 and New Year’s Day 2025.

I had backpacked through Abidjan and Grand Bassam before, back in 2018. On that trip, I got an online visa for Ivory Coast and stayed in the swanky Ibis Plateau Hotel in Abidjan. I also first met Dayo Williams who was my guide on that trip. Dayo met up with me yet again to take Marek on tours and then he joined us for a New Year’s Eve drink, late afternoon on 31st December 2024.

Grand Bassam Beach with Dayo Williams, 2018 — Grand Bassam Beach, Ivory Coast with Dayo Williams, 2018

Reunited with Dayo Williams 6 years later! — Reunited with Dayo Williams 6 years later in Cocody, Abidjan, 2024!

We had a beer together to toast the end of 2024 at our hotel, the Hotel Residential Tourist, which I will write about soon! The Hotel is for sale, so I will review it and also write about how you can BUY IT!

New / Old Year's Beers - Reunited with Dayo Williams 6 years later! 2024! — New / Old Year’s Beers – Reunited with Dayo Williams 6 years later! 2024!

Then as it got closer to the midnight countdown, Marek and I decided to head to our hat-trick night local, Bar Chez Laetitia.

Bar Chez Laetitia, Cocody, Abidjan, Ivory Coast

We had dined out here at Bar Chez Laetitia on our first night in Ivory Coast on this jaunt, December 29th and got to know Esther, the waitress and bar lady who came from Ghana and spoke English. I still haven’t been to Ghana!

Esther, our barmaid and waitress from Ghana

Then on December 30th I had popped in for a quick beer at Bar Chez Laetitia and to enquire about booking a table for New Year’s Eve. I wouldn’t have needed to make a reservation actually. Just come and join the party, there’ll be a table for you, they said.

In fact, we sat at the same table thrice, three nights in a row. On New Year’s Eve, in the run up to midnight all seemed quiet. We ordered up a bottle of red wine. Marek drinks wine like Leonardo Da Vinci. 50% wine and 50% water. I’ve decided to copy him. If a 71 year old can still backpack the world after a lifetime of travelling, drinking, and even smoking then I will give it a try too. A popular dish in Ivory Coast is rabbit, so we ordered it. A Hopping farewell to 2024.

Red wine at Bar Chez Laetitia, Cocody, Abidjan, Ivory Coast

As the rabbit was taking a while to come, Marek remarked that our bunny rabbit is still hopping around the field!! Jokes loyal at 2024 was coming to a close. It was a year where I had backpacked to seven new countries – Gagauzia, Cameroon, Gabon, Sao Tome i Principe, Seborga, Burkina Faso and Niger. I had also fakepacked Mali at the airport!

Backpacking in Comrat, Gagauzia – my first new country of 2024

The vibe in Bar Chez Laetitia, Cocody, Abidjan, Ivory Coast on NYE 2024

The rabbit arrived around 22.30 p.m. It was well cooked and I realised it was the third time I’d eaten rabbit since 2017. That first time in 2017, I backpacked in Malta🇲🇹 and had rabbit in the famous Caffe Cordina bar and restaurant downtown in Valletta. I never actually wrote about the Rabbit in Malta in 2017, so here are some photos from it…

Fenek bit-Tewn (Rabbit) in the Caffe Cordina Restaurant, Valletta, Malta, 2017

Then in 2024 itself, I also had rabbit. This was my second time and I ate it in Seborga as it is the national dish there. Again for the memories – eating rabbit in Seborga.

Friday's Featured Food: Eating The National Dish Rabbit (Coniglia) In Seborga 💙🩵🤍👑 — Friday’s Featured Food: Eating The National Dish Rabbit (Coniglia) In Seborga 💙🩵🤍👑

And now as the year drew to a close, we were eating rabbit in Ivory Coast! The rest of the photos here are from Cocody, Abidjan, Ivory Coast.

The news you probably didn’t want to hear – the rabbit was average and rabbit is always average at best for me. I’m not a big fan of biting miniscule bits of average meat off of tiny bones. Life is to experience things so we did it. I won’t care if I don’t eat rabbit again. The Malta, Seborga and Ivory Coast experiences are enough rabbit for me now.

Plus the original Starogard Girl used a bunny 🐰 rabbit on her What’s App avatar. The saucy minx was double entendres on the brain. After the rabbit was finished, the mood was subdued, even at 23.30 p.m. I saw no signs that we were about to enter 2025. All was calm…

“It’s oh so quiet; it’s oh so still” – Bjork.

All is quiet on New Year's Eve — All is quiet on New Year’s Eve

At 23:59 I got my own phone out and did our own countdown. All was so quiet on New Year’s Eve, I put my feet up. Ivory Coast is relaxed and safe.

Then suddenly at midnight, Ivory Coast finally went wild. The party started. Fireworks filled the night sky. Our bargirls started to dance.

We all lost our inhibitions. Even I started dancing! It was brilliant. I pondered on where I had spent New Year’s Eve the previous few years.

Happy New Year 2025 At Chez Laetitia in Abidjan, Ivory Coast 🇨🇮

It had been 2018 in Beirut, Lebanon 🇱🇧. 2019 in my mate Neal’s flat in Bournemouth, England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿. 2020 we had a lock down mask loyal in our flat on Ulica Tamka in Warszawa, Poland 🇵🇱. In 2021, I had a wild one at Beefy! Beef 🍖 Island 🏝 in British Virgin Islands 🇻🇬. In 2022, I was in The Bahamas 🇧🇸. In 2023, I had just arrived back in Brussels, Belgium 🇧🇪 after backpacking 🎒 Sierra Leone 🇸🇱 away.

What a wild and fun end to 2024 and the start of 2025. When u looked back on my travels, I also realised this was my FIRST ever New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day in Africa. I astounded myself with that fact. It meant I had now celebrated New Year in Europe, North America, South America, Caribbean, Middle East, Asia, Oceania and Africa.

Here was the place where we celebrated 2025 arriving:

Address:

Chez Laetitia, 92PG+793, Voie Djibi, Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire

Hours:

Open ⋅ Closes 2 AM

Phone: +225 47562658

Facebook of Chez Laetitia

Here are some videos from New Year’s Eve and Day in Abidjan, Ivory Coast:

Backpacking In Central African Republic🇨🇫: Charmigation At The Beautiful Boali Falls🏞️🌊💦In The Heart Of Africa

Posted on January 18, 2025January 18, 2025 by Jonny Blair

“Down the waterfall wherever it may take me” – Robbie Williams.

Backpacking In Central African Republic🇨🇫: Charmigation At The Beautiful Boali Falls In The Heart Of Africa

On a hot Sunday, in the heart of Africa, in the centre of Africa and in the middle of Africa, we visited the Boali Falls. Welcome to the centre of the entire continent, if not the world. Central African Republic is a breath thefter. This was far too good. Far too good to be real. A waterfall in the heart of Africa, dreamlike, textbook backpacking tourism at life’s most beautiful. Yes yes yes.

Backpacking the Empi State Building, the Taj Mahal and even Belfast’s Stormont just couldn’t compare to this. I backpacked that hat-trick with wacaday aplomb in days gone hopelessly by. Hardly impressive when pitted up against the charm of Central African Republic’s waterfalls. Not even close to this wild beauty.

“Ride the wildsurf until the dawn is ushered in at your word” – Tim Wheeler.

Where you’re the only foreign tourist in sight.

Well yeah except for Marek😅my backpacking mate with whom I have now visited 19 countries with despite only meeting him in March 2024 at Sao Tome Away. We flew our flegs.

Marek Bladowski and I conquer Boali Falls

The journey to Boali Falls wasn’t plain sailing and easy though. It was at the fourth time of tasking we somehow wound up in the Central African Republic 🇨🇫. A hat-trick of visa failures had Marek and I’s dream of backpacking Boali hanging from a thread. But we did it.

“Don’t you ever consider giving up” – Ace of Base.

The idea here was to backpack the sights of Bangui (the capital city), head inland to Boali Falls and check out the Oubangi river border to two other countries – The Democratic Republic of The Congo 🇨🇩 (which I backpacked before in 2019) and Republic of Congo (where I still haven’t been, or seen!).

View Of the city of Zongo in DR Congo at Ubangi River, Bangui, Central African Republic

We had pencilled Boali Falls into our itinerary some 6 months ago. I had no idea of the magic that lay ahead…it was just an idea. We backpacked the river border the day before Boali, even that seemed tremendous that nothing could better this…

The Road To Boali

Getting to Boali isn’t easy. It’s made even more difficult by the facts that –

1.A visa to enter the Central African Republic is hard to get (as we learnt).

Applying for the CAR visa in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Visa Confirmation for Central African Republic with 7 minutes left

2.Once inside the country, the UK, Irish and Polish governments all advise you not to backpack Boali, nor to venture anywhere outside Bangui, the capital. In fact, they don’t even want you to visit Bangui or the country at all. It’s off limits. But the UK, Irish and Polish governments never backpacked it – they had no balls, they read some report online and fakpacked it. Perhaps scared by the threat of Wagner Group (Russian allies with Central African Republic, Niger and Burkina Faso). Shame on the “UK” government, given that they killed innocent civilians in Derry my home country of Northern Ireland in 1972.

“Sunday bloody Sunday” – U2.

The UK government fakepacked Central African Republic

We organised the Boali trip through Tognama at the excellent Gust Hotel in Bangui. Gust Hotel is by far the best place to stay in this country, simply love it and owe all of my blogs on Central African Republic to Tognama, the visa hero! Tognama will feature a lot on here and was even for this special day, our driver, guide and friend taking us to Boali. Wow!

Introducing Tognama, The Manager of Gust Hotel, Central African Republic!

The day arrived to visit Bangui, our third day officially in Central African Republic. We left Bangui by car around 8.00 a.m. on route to Boali – just three of us – Jonny, Marek, Tognama. The journey was magnificent.

The quality of the road was pretty good, especially compared to a lot of roads I have backpacked in Africa in DR Congo, Mauritania and Ethiopia. All along the roadside, people are working away, mostly with wood. Chopping wood from trees and selling it. Selling fruit and petrol are also common. This is a very hard-working country. The people are all working hard – it isn’t lazy that could be said about places like Mauritania and Sao Tome.

The views were magical, the road was better than we both expected, we admired the scenery and the people working in everyday life jobs by the roadside. We passed scattered villages. It only took just over 2 hours to get to Boali! We only had two stops – one at the entrance sign for Boali to take some photos and the other one at Martushi Village near Bangaladeke. A very smooth journey to Boali Falls in general. Brilliant.

Martushi Village, Near Bangaladéké and Cassava Bread

On the way to Bangui, we stopped roadside in Martushi Village near Bangaladeke. Here we saw the extracts from the Cassava plant, which is used to make Casava bread. The local lady here was happy to chat to us in broken French and broken English as we tried to understand how Cassava bread is made, a bread that is non-fatty and one I have tried a few times on my jaunts.

Martushi Village near Bangaladeke and Cassava Bread

You can see the Cassava plant extracts in the bowl in these photos. It looks like popcorn there, but it’s a hard white substance up close. The locals enjoyed posing with us, but we didn’t linger long.

Bangaladéké village and meeting the locals nest to the plant extract for making Cassava Bread — Martushi Village near Bangaladeke and meeting the locals nest to the plant extract for making Cassava Bread

Martushi Village near Bangaladeke and meeting the locals nest to the plant extract for making Cassava Bread

After that, we arrived at the entrance sign for Boali. A photo opportunity as the magic begins to rear its head.

The Jonny Blair Reminisce

My life came before me…as we neared the Falls, I remembered all those completely wild waterfalls I’d backpacked on my journeys. I’ve seen over 50 waterfalls around the world. You know, waterfalls have a kind of magic, here’s 12 for starters…

1.Saksun, Faroe Islands 🇫🇴

Backpacking in the Faroe Islands: Exploring Saksun on Streymoy Island

2.Git Git Falls, Bali, Indonesia 🇮🇩

3.Niagara Falls, Canada 🇨🇦 / Horseshoe Falls, USA 🇺🇸

4.Iguazu Falls, Argentina 🇦🇷 / Foz Do Iguacu, Brazil 🇧🇷

5.Kaieteur Falls, Guyana 🇬🇾

Kaieteur Falls tour with Dagron Tours Guyana, 2014

6.Jiulong Falls, China 🇨🇳

Jiulong Waterfalls Yunnan China amazing lifestyle of travel — Admiring the marvellous Jiulong Waterfalls near Luoping in the Yunnan Province of China, 2013

7.Emerald Falls, Dominica 🇩🇲

Emerald Pool, Dominica — Emerald Falls, Dominica, 2021

8.Agua Azul, Mexico 🇲🇽

9.Wentworth Falls, Blue🔵Mountains ⛰️, Australia🇦🇺

10.Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe 🇿🇼, Zambia 🇿🇲

The pure magic of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

11.Gullfoss, Iceland 🇮🇸

The lads and I at Gullfoss – Owen, me, Michael, Gavin, John. Gullfoss, Iceland 🇮🇸

12.Diyaluma Falls, Sri Lanka

Mum and Dad backpacked to Diyaluma Falls in Sri Lanka with me in 2013

Life flashed before me as we meandered our way through the heart of Africa. Now, I was really travelling. I’d earned this, another waterfall but this felt slightly more special. We area in the middle of the continent. We are actually in Central Africa. We are in Central African Republic!

We are actually in Central Africa. We are in Central African Republic!

I considered how other continents don’t have a country named after the centre of it! Imagine if Czechia or Austria were to rename themselves “Central European Republic” or Mongolia, Nepal or Bhutan becomes “Central Asian Republic” – it would be nuts loyal. Here in Africa they have done it.

“Don’t go chasing waterfalls” – TLC.

Boali Village

Boali isn’t just the name of the falls, it’s the name of the village too. We drove right through the village of Boali down a long winding hill. The roads here are worse than the road between Bangui and Boali, but still pretty good. A 4 x 4 car would help. We had a simple Peugeot (The French cloud still lingers) – which had some issues (we’d breakdown thrice this day).

How To Get To Boali Falls — The road through Boali Village to Boali Falls

We didn’t pause or stop in Boali Village, for now…

It was straight down the muddy, murky road to the magic of Boali Falls.

Arrival At Boali Falls / Chutes De Boali

On arrival we park the car. We pay the 5,000 CAF entry fee per person (£6.43 in Northern Irish pounds). We are ticket numbers 12 and 13. We expect there were 11 before us that day snd then we see a school group, which was clearly the one before us. The ticket prices are up on a board. It’s Chutes De Boali in French.

We are in the heart of Africa and there’s a heart just after the entrance kiosk, plus a load of flags. I was surprised to see USA here next to Russia, but the UN have a high presence here, strangely so do Israel and Tunisia. The Russia flag is due to the influence here (and in Burkina Faso and Niger) from the Wagner Paramilitary Group. Northern Ireland all over again, I’d have my fleg (flag) too 😉

I’m surprised this isn’t UNESCO. It should be. There are some wood carved statue, a monkey hat-trick and suddenly some bars and restaurants and we are told there is a lodge here too for those staying overnight.

Arrival At Boali Falls – a bar / restaurant

Marek and I start to hear the water falling bit we are of the same ilk; cut from the same stone. “Where’s the bar overlooking the waterfalls?” asks Marek. He beat me to it, I was about to ask the same question. The only questions to follow would be “how much is a beer?”, “is it local?” and the mandatory, “is it cold?”

Beers At Boali Falls – Village Samba

Within minutes we have a beer at our table overlooking the magic. Oh yes. This is a high and we know it. None of our friends, family, coworkers, previous work colleagues have been here. I don’t even think many other travel bloggers have been here. Does that make the beer more special? Actually yes! We head to Restaurant Village Samba, Boali Falls

I’m unashamedly selfish at the best of times and this is the best of times.

Monkey hat-trick. Spake no evil. See no evil. Hear no evil.

Village Samba is a bar built on wood and it overlooks the Mbali River which ultimately leads to the Boali Falls. There won’t be any trekking or hiking here. We’re already right at the waterfalls!

I opt for the local Chill Mocaf Citron.

The view of Mbali River from Village Samba

Boali Falls

The moment comes. We finish the beer and now comes the short dander to the magic we craved.

Boali Falls are sensational.

There are five actual “falls” of water here so obviously you will see all 5.

The biggest one, the first you’ll see on the left is nicknamed BOYALI.

I made up my own nicknames for the other four falls…

1.Boyali Falls
2.Girlali Falls. (to even genders up)
3.Bogaty Falls. (Bogaty is the Polish word for dear/pricey/costly)
4.Bangori Falls. (Bangor is my hometown)
5.Starogard Falls. (Because I knew our Starogard Girl would never ever make it here.

We flung thon flegs. By that I mean “flew the flags”.

Marek flying the Poland and Australian Flags at Boali Falls

Jonny flying the Northern Ireland Flag at Boali Falls

Marek as a dual national Polish and Australian gets the brace out to fly high low and proud. As a dual national who doesn’t support UK or ROI, I nab the entity on both my passports- Northern Ireland. I’m a Northern Irish nationalist and separatist. Together our six counties are everything; divided we are nothing and stolen. Out comes the Northern Ireland fleg. Proud and loud at Boali away. Gerry Armstrong loyal.

Marek retires to the bar while I basque in the morning glory. I’m front row loyal to view all 5 waterfalls but I decide not to swim. Normally I would but I’m followed down here by about 6 or 7 local lads. Money walks and talks at Central African Republic away and I’m a cheapskate whackpacker, I ain’t into your money or stalking gimps.

I savour my moment, this is the heart of Africa and it’s glorious. I virtually bring Starogard Girl here, I get my moment. Although my Starogard Girl had blue eyes!

“Slipping and sliding all along the waterfall with you – my brown-eyed girl” – Van Morrison.

But soon, I’m back in the bar with Marek for the next cold one. We’ve conquered Boali without flinching an eyelid.

“Starogard Girl; she’s my Starogard Girl” – Jonny Blair.

Tognama gets a glimpse of my best-seller “Starogard Girl”

And you can still buy Starogard Girl here (This Is The Next Century Volume 2).

My New Book STAROGARD GIRL🩷👱‍♀️Is Released — My New Book: 💚STARO🌟GARD🏰GIRL🩷👱‍♀️Is Released

Mini Zoo At Boali Falls

After the next beer in the gorgeous location at Village Samba, it’s off to the mini zoo. Animals are caged up. We see crocodiles, turtles, 3 baboons and some chimpanzees.

Caged animals at the mini-zoo by Boali Falls – a monkey

Caged animals at the mini-zoo by Boali Falls – a tortoise

Caged animals at the mini-zoo by Boali Falls – two baby crocodiles

One baboon comes right up to Marek in his cage. I feel sad he’s in prison. Marek is a calm gentleman. The baboon senses it.

Caged animals at the mini-zoo by Boali Falls

Frm the caged animals, it’s a short walk through greenery with grass and trees to the Liane Bridge…

The Ironic CAR at CAR: Carrick A Rede Rope Bridge to Liane Bridge

After the mini zoo, it’s Bridge time with a sentimental affair. The Liane Bridge, they call it Lion Bridge but it’s bereft of lions (we saw them in Niger on this trip).

Why is this a CAR ironic bridge?? You see, one of the famous sights in Northern Ireland is the Carrick A Rede Rope Bridge, built from mainland Northern Ireland to connect to a steep island to aid fishermen. The irony is not just that the bridges are similar but that it’s CAR –

CAR – Carrick A Rede
CAR – Central African Republic

Jonny Blair Carrick a Rede Rope Bridge Northern Ireland — Crossing the Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge in Northern Ireland

I’d backpacked that Rope bridge a few times, the Carrick A Rede. Here, this was uncannily similar and I even had the same flag and did the same dander!

Crossing The Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge, North Antrim Coast, Northern Ireland🔴✋️☘️2012

Crossing the Liane Bridge Over Mbali River, Boali, Central African Republic, 2025

This is Liane Bridge. It’s a Rope bridge across the Mboli river.

Liane Bridge Over Mbali River, Boali, Central African Republic, 2025

The old bridge broke and is on the right, worse for wear. The new one looks decent. It’s on the left. We walk on it.

It’s way more shaky than Northern Ireland’s wild Carrick A Rede! I do the flag and the walk…

After the Rope Bridge, it’s time to bid farewell ot the marvel of Boali…Then as we go to leave, our car won’t start and we consider just never leaving here. Olsztyn and Bangor seem miles away. Oh dear!

I get out and give it a push. The battery was flat. At the start I thought it was a deliberate scam to get more money out of us, then I told Marek I noticed Tognama had left the lights on while we were parked for 4 hours backpacking waterfalls!

“He lives under a waterfall. Nobody can see him; nobody can ever hear him call” – Noel Gallagher.

I push the car with 4 others and jump in. We’re out of here!

Lunch After Boali Falls

Everyone employed in and around Boali Falls wanted money for everything so this is why we decided NOT to have lunch here. I ended up almost forced to pay 2 wannabe guides at Boali Falls who did nothing. I didn’t ask them to come down to the waterfalls with me, but they followed me like leeches and stalkers. Because of this, after you’ve had a beer and seen the falls, get out of there. We headed to an excellent restaurant and bar on the edge of Boali Village, called Pierre D’Onyx, they even have a hotel…

Lunch At Bar Pierre D’Onyx, Near Boali Falls

We went to Bar Pierre D’Onyx for beer and lunch, it’s in front of the gates to the hotel. This is a trendy wee restaurant, fairly upmarket I’d say and it’s on the periphery of a hotel here. We didn’t go into the hotel, which is Motel La Pierre D’Onyx. The Bar has seats with Onyx written on them but seems to also be called Chez Papa Elie. That said, their Facebook Page is Pierre D’Onyx and that’s what people know it by.

We ordered up the textbook local Mocaf Beers – standard for Marek and I. We ordered up a whole roasted chicken which came with sides of salad, dried then fried apples, dried then fried plantains plus spicy sauce. Tognama has a juice and we start chatting about life and travels!

Tognama and I travel writing and chatting at Lunch At Bar Pierre D'Onyx, Near Boali Falls — Tognama and I travel writing and chatting at Lunch At Bar Pierre D’Onyx, Near Boali Falls

Tognama and I having at Lunch At Bar Pierre D’Onyx, Near Boali Falls

Marek having at Lunch At Bar Pierre D’Onyx, Near Boali Falls

Tognama, Marek and I having at Lunch At Bar Pierre D’Onyx, Near Boali Falls

In Central African Republic, food always takes at least an hour to arrive (except for breakfast at our hotel, which was basically ready for us at 7.30 a.m. everyday). After 2 hours, the chicken still hadn’t arrived and just before this, a chicken walked past us.

We joked this is our chicken – it might have been…

We joked that this was our chicken. It might well have been our chicken because about 10 minutes later, our feast arrived!

Whole roasted chicken which came with sides of salad, dried then fried apples, dried then fried plantains plus spicy sauce - lunch at Pierre D'Onyx — Whole roasted chicken which came with sides of salad, dried then fried apples, dried then fried plantains plus spicy sauce – lunch at Pierre D’Onyx

We had another beer and headed on our merry way, all the way back to Bangui, the capital city and our base at the Gust Hotel. There was another breakdown of our trusted Peugeot 306 on the way back home, but all was good in the end…

A car breakdown stop on the way back to Bangui

Oue car registration was oddly 30 3 as the first 3 digits – my date of birth is 30th March (30/3) so I knew this would be lucky, plus a 74 at the end for Northern Ireland’s leading goalscorer David Healy. Healy 74!

The Twist: We were NOT the only foreign tourists

That evening when we pondered over our trip to Boali Falls, we noted that we had ticket numbers 12 and 13 for the day and we expected we were the only foreign tourists. We certainly didn’t see any other foreign tourists.

There was a local school group in front of us and we assumed they had the tickets 0 to 11 that day. A twist came the following day…

We were at Bangui International Airport the next day and sat down in departures beside a lady who looked like she might be a backpacker. She was!! This was Laleena, a South African/ British backpacker.

Laleena with Marek and I on the flight out from Bangui in CAR to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia

When we got talking, we were shocked to learn that Laleena had backpacked Boali Falls the previous day too!! Except she had done it by local bus, wow! I didn’t even know there was a local bus option. When Laleena pulled out her ticket for Boali Falls she was number 11!! She had literally been there a few minutes before us, in the time after the school group and before us.

Laleena and I land in Addis Ababa in Ethiopia after the flight from Bangui, CAR

Marek and I wondered why we hadn’t seen her, then it became clear. On arrival at Boali Falls, Laleena must have been down at the Falls, while we headed straight to the bar for a pre-falls beer!

While we were having our beer, Laleena must have walked past the bar to do the mini zoo and Liane Bridge! We hung out together in Bangui and Addis Ababa airports at the tail end of our January 2025 Africa trip!

Marek, Jonny and Laleena with our waitress in a bar in Addis Ababa Airport

Here are the details of contacting Tognama:

[email protected]
+250 791 750 721

Here are the details for booking the Gust Hotel in Bangui, Central African Republic:

Address:

Av. des Martyrs, Bangui, Central African Republic

+236 72 89 03 25

[email protected]

You can message them on Facebook –

Gust Hotel on Facebook

Here are some videos from my trip to Boali Falls in Central African Republic:

Driving There:

The three car breakdowns:

Liane Bridge:

The Mini-Zoo:

Driving Back:

The Lunch at Pierre D’Onyx:

How to Make Cassava Bread:

Backpacking in Central African Republic🇨🇫: The ONLY Place To Stay Is The Fantastic Gust Hotel, Bangui

Posted on January 17, 2025January 18, 2025 by Jonny Blair

“Here is a sunrise. Ain’t that enough?” – Teenage Fanclub.

First things first here – don’t even consider sleeping anywhere else in Bangui. Gust Hotel is your place to sleep in the capital city of Bangui, Central African Republic. This was my home, Marek’s home and should be your home in the enigmatic chaos that is Central African Republic. Get your trip to Central African Republic booked and get Gust Hotel booked and tell Tognama I sent you, say hello to him for me…

Introducing Tognama, The Manager

Tognama is our new friend. He’s the Gust Hotel manager, but he’s way more than that. Hello Tognama!

Tognama sorted our visa (a story and a half – we got it 7 minutes before our flight), he hosted us here, he toured we us, he wined and dined with us, he organised our trips, he organised getting our passports back safely, he ensured a safe and smooth arrival and departure from his country. Tognama is the star 🌟.

“Days that found you; grace that bound you” – Teenage Fanclub.

Tognama knows more about customer service than most hotel managers in Africa ever will. He prioritised Marek and I for our 3 nights, 4 days here in Central African Republic.

“Before my eyes, beyond the stars, beneath the sun” – Tim Wheeler.

Here’s 11 reasons why you should absolutely definitely stay at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic.

Reasons to be cheerful” – Ian Dury and the Blockheads.

1.Proximity To Airport

This is the closest hotel to the airport. Super, this means you are maximising your time in the country. It’s a 5 minute drive from Gust Hotel to Bangui International Airport – Bangui M’Poko International Airport.

Best Hotel Bangui Gust Central African Republic — Proximity To Airport – Gust Hotel is a 5 minute drive!

Proximity To Airport - Gust Hotel is a 5 minute drive! — Proximity To Airport – Gust Hotel is a 5 minute drive!

The airport even has 5 different bars in it – we managed to drinkpack 4 of them before leaving Central African Republic behind! Nuts loyal and one for my Thirsty Thursdays series.

2.Collection To And From Airport

You’ll get a smooth and safe airport collection from Bangui International Airport as organised by Gust Hotel. Just make sure you organise it with Tognama and his team first. Desiree collected us on a wild night, on a day where we started in the BIGGEST Hotel in Africa in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, transitpacked through Douala in Cameroon and finally got our visa (see later) with 7 minutes to spare before the flight closed.

Desree meets us at the airport in Bangui on a wild, crazy, day of travelling! — Desiree meets us at the airport in Bangui on a wild, crazy, day of travelling!

3.Visa Solvation

At the fourth attempt, our visa issue was solved, by the legend of Tognama with 7 minutes to spare while we were desperately trying to board our flight from Douala, Cameroon to Bangui, Central African Republic!! Phew!!!

Firstly we tried to get the Central African Republic visa from the French Embassy in Warszawa. We filled in all the relevant forms, sent them all a month before our trip, 5th December 2024. They refused us, and were frankly very rude to us. Oh well, shame on your moon…

Our attempt to get the Central African Visa at the French Embassy in Warszawa, Poland…

Secondly, we tried to get the Central African Republic visa at their Embassy in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. Our contact Fabio promised the visa would be processed within a few days. We arrived in Burkina Faso on 19th December and left on 26th December. You would think a week would be enough time, especially as he took a whopping 260 Euros off us (130 Euros each) in cash. Christmas time didn’t help, and the embassy’s only guy there decided to go on holiday instead of granting us two visas.

Thirdly, our final attempt was in Ivory Coast. The Internet told us there is an Embassy in Abidjan. But after spending over an hour touring the city’s embassy district, it was clear that the Central African Republic embassy here, no longer existed. We found the building though, and decided not to backpack through it seeking a visa…it was derelict and shut to the world.

What remains of the Central African Embassy in Abidjan, Ivory Coast.

But we battled on, and via our contact Tognama, manager of the truly excellent Gust Hotel we finally got granted a visa with 7 minutes before our flight, via What’s App. We made a mad dash and were the last two passengers to board the plane. Phew!

Phew – On the flight from Douala to Bangui at the LAST LAST minute!

4.Downstairs Bar at Gust Hotel

This was our home for 3 nights, 4 days. We actually had a beer in here on 4 consecutive days, even necking a cold one on our last day.

Great staff with Constantine and Alicia always working hard and on hand to serve and help.

Great staff with Alicia and Constantine at Gust Hotel Bar

Marek surprised to be able to choose Cameroonian wine at Gust Hotel Bar

We tried Cameroonian red wine, Central African Bilibili, Irish Bailey’s and of course Mocaf here. Mocaf is the main beer of the Central African Republic.

My first ever Central African Republic Beer - Mocaf at Gust Hotel — My first ever Central African Republic Beer – Mocaf at Gust Hotel

Central African Republic Beer – Mocaf at Gust Hotel

5.Breakfast Included

The same downstairs bar at the Gust Hotel serves up a fine breakfast daily from 7.30 a.m. We were always there at exactly half seven for it.

Breakfast Included at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

An omelette, bread and coffee all served individually.

6.Excellent WiFi

A big surprise was that the WiFi worked well. Tognama knows his stuff. It’s a priority these days for tourists to be online. The WiFi worked fastest downstairs in and around the bar. But a bigger surprise was it also worked in my room so I get some blogging done!

Blogging at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

7.The Spontaneous Wedding Invite

On the Saturday night, Tognama tells us there’s a wedding booked on the top floor for over 100 people. We couldn’t possibly gatecrash it, could we?

The Spontaneous Wedding Invite at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

Even better, we got a spontaneous invite thanks to meeting Daniel Yadin. We were quite overwhlemed by it all – the only two tourists, foreigners, Caucasians, white people here.

8.Range Of Rooms

Tognama gave Marek and I a room each. Marek wanted a fridge and hot water, so he was in a triple room suite – bedroom, shower room, lounge. We hung out in Marek’s room most nights as he had the big table, sofa, chairs and the fridge. He was in Room 209 on the second floor (3rd level up).

I was next door in Room 211. The cheaper backpacker option of course but I loved my room!

Blogging in my Room - Room 211 at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic — Blogging in my Room – Room 211 at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

My Room 211 at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

View From My Room 211 at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

All rooms have a mosquito net, desk, chair, wardrobe, lights, ensuite shower room, bin and a window view of Bangui.

The corridor to our rooms at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

9.Safety And Security

When we travelled to Central African Republic, The UK, Irish and Polish governments all advised against it. They did that as fake scaremongerers who never backpacked anywhere. We were safe and secure here at Gust Hotel. The UK government fakepacked Central African Republic – they never even visited it but told us not to – how wrong they were, AGAIN!

Safety And Security at Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic

10.Organising Tours

If you want to tour the sights of Bangui, you can easily organise it from here at Gust. Just ask Tognama and his staff and they’ll sort you out.

Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame, Bangui Central African Republic

View Of the city of Zono in DR Congo at Ubangi River, Bangui, Central African Republic

You can also organise tours further afield, we headed a few hours inland to the magnificent Boali Falls (you can also spend the night in a hotel there but we loved Gust Hotel too much!).

Backpacking in Bangui, Central African Republic

You can organise a tour to the Pygmy Village (the world’s smallest people) and the Zhsngiiiiiuuuuiiu (the world’s least visited national park). Plus if you’re heading overland to either Republic of Congo or The Democratic Republic Of The Congo 🇨🇩, you can also organise heading to those borders from here.

11.The Bilibili

We had wanted to try the local alcohol Bilibili but it’s not easy to find in bars and shops. Ask at reception here and they can order it in for you.

Drinking The Bilibili, especially ordered for us by Tognama at Gust Hotel, Bangui, CAR

We sipped the Bilibili on our last night and even were given 2 bottles of it for 1000 Central African Francs, a total bargain. We took a small bottle each back to Poland so our Polish friends could try the famous Bilibili.

A big shout out to Bruno Yamanza too – the Reception Manager!

Bruno Yamanza too - the Reception Manager at Gust Hotel — Bruno Yamanza too – the Reception Manager at Gust Hotel

Overall we simply loved Gust Hotel, a breath of fresh air in the travel industry. The customer comes first here, we were king. Tognama’s Castle.

If you stay here and meet Tognama, say hi from Jonny and Marek. He’s a great lad who played a massive part in our journeys on this planet. Tell him you heard about Gust Hotel on Don’t Stop Living.

“Search for the hero inside yourself” – M.People.

Here are the details of Tognama:

[email protected]

+250 791 750 721

Here are the details for booking the Gust Hotel in Bangui, Central African Republic:

Address:

Av. des Martyrs, Bangui, Central African Republic

+236 72 89 03 25

[email protected]

You can message them on Facebook –

Gust Hotel on Facebook

Gust Hotel on Booking.com

Here are some videos I made at the Gust Hotel in Bangui, Central African Republic:

Bili Bili Videos –

Wedding Party Invite Videos –

“Here is a sunrise, ain’t that enough?” – Teenage Fanclub.

Thirsty Thursdays: Watching Kennedy Star🌟Live At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger🇳🇪

Posted on January 15, 2025January 26, 2025 by Jonny Blair

Thirsty Thursdays: Watching Kennedy Star Live At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger

Well on our last night backpacking in Niamey, Niger, we were served up a treat – local live music – guitars, drums, singing live in front of our eyes with cold beers to boot. It was the final night of a wild adventure which started on a bus from Olsztyn to Kolobrzeg in Poland on 9th November 2024. First of all, to set the scene – the Niger Visa is NOT an easy one to nab. Currently, the UK, Irish and Polish governments all advise us NOT to travel to Niger. That in itself, was the spur and catalyst to make us want to go there and prove them all wrong, as usual. So, we headed to Berlin, TWICE to get the Niger Visa in Berlin, Germany.

Now that we had the visa, we headed to Niger on a direct flight from Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, on Boxing Day. On arrival we headed straight to our superb hotel, the Hotel Univers 3 Aeroport Luxe in Niamey, the capital city of Niger!

Backpacking In Niger 🇳🇪: My Stay At Hotel Univers 3 Aeroport Luxe, Niamey

While staying here, we were able to relax by the pool, chill out, drink local beers and dine in the restaurant. We also toured the sights of Niamey. We did waste a bit of time solving a passport dilemma. I wasn’t too fussed about it but Marek got stressed because the police keep your passports in Niger. I knew it was standard procedure and no cause for alarm. We ended up visiting this “DST Office” twice to try and locate and source our passports, but in the end the passports were simply being held at the international airport in Niamey because we were coming in and out of the airport. Marek met a local lad called Illiassou by chance in our hotel and he was the one we spent an afternoon with at DST loyal and trying to solve the passport issue. He even went to the airport with us, but turned down the offer of drinks and dinner as a devout Muslim. Otherwise, we would have drinkpacked another local restaurant before the Kennedy Star night out! Thanks to Illiassou.

With local lad Illiassou who solved the passport issue

Once all that had been sorted, we were finally relaxed and up for a night out in Niamey, one of my top 17 memories from backpacking Niger. Thanks to Augustine in the Hotel Univers 3 Aeroport Luxe, we were invited to a local music night in a bar called Bar Caupa Bangou. But Augustine left early on his own and it was now dark. We tried in vain to get a taxi and time was ticking, it was now about 20:30 on our last night in Niger, but we didn’t want to miss the live music. The streets are barely lit at night here in Niamey and we had no mission to find this bar on our own, so we finally found a taxi and our hotel reception manager was able to tell the taxi driver exactly where Bar Caupa Bangou was located and he knew it. Sorted. Or not…

Driving at Night In Niamey Just Before Almost Being Hijacked

The traffic was nuts, pure madness. None of the windows in our taxi went up, the door had no lock and suddenly in amongst the traffic it started to feel tense, like other cars full of locals were staring at Marek and I. With the darkness gaping in, one lad started shouting at me and then to my shock, the door burst open and he got in beside me in anger. It was nuts. It all happened so fast. About five of his mates were behind him and he started asking Marek and I if we were American and why we were here. He asked us in French of course and I understand only a bit. He was aggressive, I had no idea if he would have a knife or a gun or if they were going to attack us and hijack us or ambush us. Even our taxi driver looked scared. Marek was in the front seat and stayed calm. I chatted to this guy in a traffic jam in the blackness darkness and told him we are Irish and Polish tourists. NOT Americans and we love Niger and Niamey. We love your country, we are here to see it. It took a while for this to cool the situation down and his aggression wore off. Finally after five minutes or so (I don’t remember), the lad finally got out of the car. It was all a mad frenzy and we saw him board a truck which I then thought was following us, but the traffic wasn’t move. It was dark and slow. Finally we came to a clearing and a break in traffic and I gazed back and it looked like they had gone. I’ll never know their motive or how I sweet-talked myself out of a hijacking, but within minutes we were inside Bar Caupa Bangou and I had an ice cold Libs Sorgho in my hand.

First Libs Sorgho Beer at Bar Caupa Bangou

Marek and I found Augustine in there at the back and sat down beside him. Marek and I were the only two Caucasian or white people in sight, not just that night and that day but for the whole time we were in Niger, apart from the Italian Priest we met at the Catholic Cathedral. Long story shortened and over, we were now safely in this bar to enjoy the night and the beers went down well!

Marek and I as the only two Caucasian foreigners watching Kennedy Star at Bar Caupa Bangou

Augustine plus Marek and I as the only two Caucasian foreigners watching Kennedy Star at Bar Caupa Bangou

The music pumps out a beat and we see some ladies dressed elegantly in white and red. I asked Augustine if they are the dancers or the next band on. But I was shocked to learn they were all prostitutes sitting in line in the bar, waiting to be picked by the next local lad! Marek and I popped into the bar area briefly to check them out and what it was all about. There was one other non-Niger lad in there – he was a well-known Turkish businessman we were told.

Our waitresses getting ready for Kennedy Star to start At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger

Everyone was on the drink and we are then told that this bar is open 24/7. The party never stops. Niger Away was nuts and this was our last night here, but we had no intention of staying the whole night. Although our flight out the next day was late afternoon, so we actually could have done. We drank and chatted with the local music pumping ahead of the band getting ready to start.

Getting ready for Kennedy Star to start At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger

Augustine, Marek and I getting ready for Kennedy Star to start At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger

After a few hours of pumping music, good chat and vibes and more cold beers, we get to meet the lead singer of Kennedy Star!

Meeting the lead singer from Kennedy Star in Niamey, Niger

Within a few minutes we are front row with a beer and they start to play…

Thirsty Thursdays: Watching Kennedy Star Live At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger

Here are some photos of Kennedy Star live in Niamey, Niger…

Eevn our bill looked nuts at Kennedy Star Away!

Here are some videos of the performance by Kennedy Star At Bar Caupa Bangou, Niamey, Niger on 28th December 2024:

Here are two videos of us Drinking In Bar Caupa Bangou With Marek and Augustine – Niamey – Niger – 28th December 2024:

Backpacking In Mauritania 🇲🇷: Top 11 Sights In Nouadhibou

Backpacking In Mauritania 🇲🇷(and Western Sahara🇪🇭!): Top 11 Sights In Nouadhibou

Posted on January 13, 2025January 23, 2025 by Jonny Blair

“Maybe somewhere down the road when somebody plays (at the end of the line)” – The Travelling Wilburys.

I had backpacked quickly through the Mauritanian oceanside city of Nouadhibou in 2022 after completing the textbook Mauritania Iron Ore train journey. That was a trip of a lifetime, and who knew that 2 and a half years later, I’d be back. Back here, on the streets of Nouadhibou! Life has a funny way of sneaking up on you…

Backpacking in Mauritania: Riding The Iron Ore Train From Choum to Nouadhibou

Nouadhibou is not typically a backpacker’s dream, and usually it’s best to pass swiftly in and out. Or so it seemed…but you forget the magic here in this city. Consider the history and the present, there’s more than first met my Nouadhibou eye in 2022…

Nouadhibou is an important and vital port city for Mauritania.
Nouadhibou is on the border with Spanish Sahara, Western Sahara and Morocco (depending on your political standpoint).
Nouadhibou is where the Sahara Desert meets the Atlantic Ocean.
Nouadhibou has the western most point of Saharan Africa.
Nouadhibou is where the sun sets in Africa for the final time, twice a year.
Nouadhibou is the entry point to Mauritania for those backpacking south from Morocco.
Nouadhibou is the exit point from Mauritania for those backpacking north to Morocco.
Nouadhibou has Ras Nouadhibou, a unique peninsula where you can just stroll across the border between two countries and nobody cares. Dig some of that.

Delicious lunch at Sidamar’s flat in Nouadhibou back in 2022

This time, December 2024 on my return to Mauritania, I spent a couple of nights here by staying at the lovely Villa Maguela and we toured the city’s sights. I was camping out in a tent and backpacking on wacaday minibuses like old times.

Backpacking In Mauritania 🇲🇷: Camping ⛺️By The Atlantic Ocean 🌊 At Villa Maguela In Nouadhibou

Flying the flag in the Sahara Desert once again

Properly backpacking overland on minibuses to Nouadhibou

Officially this was my third time in Mauritania as I had transited here in 2016 on the Lost Luggage challenge with Money Supermarket. I fakepacked it the first time!

Stopover in Nouakchott, Mauritania: One of the Few Places I've Been To But Never Seen — Stopover in Nouakchott, Mauritania: Back in 2016 Fakepacking it!

But in 2022, I realpacked it by visiting Adrar, Atar, Sahara Desert, Choum, Nouadhibou and Nouakchott.

Arrival in Nouakchott, Mauritania: This time for real in 2022

In 2024 I did something a bit different. We’d head to a Spanish Restaurant (the plan), cross on the peninsula into the former Spanish Sahara and go to the western most tip of Saharan Africa! When your vibrant backpack ends up in Nouadhibou, here are 11 textbook sights I enjoyed and recommend.

1.Cap Blanc, White Cape – the most westerly point of Saharan Africa

Stick this place on your list. It’s epic. It’s inspiring. It’s all you dreamed of as a kid. Check my photos and video of Cap Blanc and you’ll get it.

Backpacking Cap Blanc, White Cape – the most westerly point of Saharan Africa

Cap Blanc, White Cape – the most westerly point of Saharan Africa

Put simply, Cap Blanc is the western most tip Of Mainland Saharan Africa. It straddles 2 countries here – Mauritania and Western Sahara. Or three in essence, given Morocco’s claim over Western Sahara. Or historically for the buffs, Spanish Sahara, where a spooky link was to arrive, later.

To get into Cap Blanc, you pay an entrance fee of 2000 Ougidas, 5 Euros. You also have to show your passport and you MUST go back the same way as officially you cross into Western Sahara here. We were officially in Spanish Sahara for about 30 minutes – there is a ghost town of La Guera here and while we saw some of the buildings, there are Moroccan border guards watching but actually, it’s calm and free.

This cape is a sealed off nature reserve which itself is ironic given there are seals here of an endangered species.

2.Saharan Africa’s most westerly Lighthouse.

Saharan Africa’s most western lighthouse is here too, and of course it’s on the Ras Nouadhibou also at Cap Blanc. You’re killing a few birds on one stone. We paid a driver, Umar to take us all the way out here, it’s at least a one hour drive on dodgy roads way west of downtown Nouadhibou.

Officially this Lighthouse is on the Mauritania side although just a few metres behind it, and you’re in Morocco / Western Sahara.

3.Iron Ore Train Ending Point.

My first proper trip to Mauritania was in 2022 when I rode the iconic Iron Ore train through the desert. It was a phenomenal journey of 16 hours overnight and I did it alone as the only tourist. Here in 2024, we went to the end of the line and saw some of the train carriages and the line that leads all the way from Zouyerat to the sea, the Atlantic Ocean rather.

4.Fish Market.

As well as iron ore and some tourism (believe me, only “some” – infrastructure for tourism here is seriously lacking), fish is a massive indstry. There’s a fishing harbour, loads of fishing boats and of course the fish market. We even had fish for dinner to celebrate Marek’s birthday at the Hostel Villa Maguela.

Marek’s Birthday dinner which included local fish

5.Atlantic Ocean.

We stayed at the Hotel Villa Maguela right by the Atlantic Ocean. For views and a swim, this was perfect. Sunrise, sunset, moonrise, this is one of the most magnificent places to view the Atlantic Ocean,

Where The Sahara meets The Atlantic Ocean

6.Western Sahara Border.

A novelty here in Nouadhibou is that the city is on a peninsula which Mauritania shares with Western Sahara, or if you like Morocco, and historically Spanish Sahara. There’s a ghost town called La Guera on the Spanish side, the buildings are abandoned. I wrote an entire 4,000 plus word post on Backpacking Simultaneously In Mauritania 🇲🇷 and Spanish Sahara 🇪🇭: Visiting Cap Blanc, The Most Western Point Of Saharan Africa.

Spanish Sahara To Mauritania border La Guera

We decided not to cross the border officially on a day trip to save money. As for some reason, Mauritania refused to give us a double or multiple entry visa on arrival. It would have meant forking out another 55 Euros for a completely new visa – as of 2024 for some reason they didn’t issue multiple entry visas.

How to get a Mauritania Visa On Arrival At Noukachott International Airport

However, we were able to cross the border anyway past the entry point to Cap Blanc as there’s a loophole! Once you pay into Cap Blanc at the barrier, you show your passport and there is an agreement to go back to the same side you came in by.

Quick passport check on the peninsula splitting Mauritania and Western Sahara

So like, back in 2017, I was back in Western Sahara again, if only for about 30 minutes. Back in 2017, I crossed from Morocco into Western Sahara, I backpacked El Aaiun and stayed at the Hotel Jodesa. Here, in 2024, I simply dandered across the border, admiring the views then dandered back.

Where Mauritania and Western Sahara meet on the peninsula at Cap Blanc

7.Spanish Shithole Restaurant: Restaurant Galloufa

Mauritania is a “dry country” in more ways than one. It’s not just a lack of water in the deserts here, it’s an Islamic Republic which means a strict no alcohol policy here. A loophole somehow allows under the table alcohol to be served to non-Muslims, at a price. It won’t be obvious where to buy alcohol but as this is a border city to Spanish Sahara, local knowledge made us aware that The Spanish Restaurant sells alcohol, as does the Chinese Restaurant on the same street.

It was the day after Marek’s birthday and the plan was to have dinner here and the only alcohol in Mauritania (outside the Chinese restaurant). My plan was to do that and then write a “Thirsty Thursdays: Drinking In A Spanish Restaurant In Mauritania” or “Friday’s Featured Food: Dining In A Spanish Restaurant In Mauritania”. But screw that shit. No chance. After going into the below restaurant, I asked TWICE (at the bar, and to a waitress) if taking photos and making videos was okay and they both said YES!!!

Spanish Shithole Restaurant: Restaurant Galloufa

So I started to make a nice video for my blog and my YouTube and TikTok channels whoch was to promote their business for free, when a nasty rude guy went nuts at me – so angry he was. I turned the video off and decided – no more photos, no more videos and no more promotion. I heard later that guy was the owner!! What an asshole – if the owner acts like that to customers and people promoting his business then fuck them. I spent zero money in here and don’t recommend it at all – absolutely SHIT customer service and liars who said I can take photos and make videos and then banned it. Luckily, they didn’t notice Marek taking a few, hence there are a few on this post to prove that such a shit place exists. What a shame this shithole will never get a standalone blog post for free promotion on Don’t Stop Living.

“I’ve got nothing to do but hang around and get screwed up on you” – Therapy?

Spanish Shithole Restaurant: Restaurant Galloufa – a sneaky photo before they lied and banned it

8.Mosques.

Of course there are loads of mosques all over Nouadhibou. I saw at least 10, but only photographed two of them. I didn’t go inside but in an Islamic Republic, I’d be a fool not to include at least one Mosque in my top 11 sights.

9.Stade Municipal De Nouadhibou.

As a football fan, I went to check out the main city football stadium here. A geek fact is that this stadium is the most westerly professional football stadium in Saharan Africa! Saharan Africa is home to 2022 World Cup semi-finalists Morocco.

Stade Municipal De Nouadhibou – the most westerly professional football stadium in Saharan Africa

Sadly it wasn’t open to go inside, nor was there a match on. The capacity has been increased to 10,300 since the most recent renovation. The stadium is used by the local team, FC Nouadhibou.

10.Camel Meat Butchery

The first time I tried camel meat was at Iran away in 2013, for Christmas dinner in Shiraz. We also rode on camels in the desert in Mesr, Iran.

mesr desert camel riding — Backpacking in Iran: Camel Riding in Mesr.

Then we famously had a total camel meat feast in Saudi Arabia when I worked at the Hotel Show in 2018 whilst also backpacking Saudi Arabia Away. The national animal of Mauritania is the camel – they are everywhere especially in the deserts. Like Australia with the kangaroo, they also eat them. Check out the butcheries.

The night before we arrived, our hostel held a camel meat dinner which we missed sadly. However, not to be outdone by the camellic loss, instead we bought some camel milk, which I think is delicious – similar to cow milk but thicker, greaser and slides down the gullet in a more fat feeling way.

11.Barber Shop

I wouldn’t normally backpack a barber shop, nor include it in a textbook top 11 but this one has to be in here!! I think it might be the first time even a barber shop or a hairdressers made my textbook top sights post!!!

My travel mate Marek got a full service of haircut, beard trim and wash at Barber Shop, Nouadhibou!

Marek gets a full service of haircut, beard trim and wash at Barber Shop, Nouadhibou!

All of these sights can easily be backpacked in one day. Find a driver in town to do it. We were in the Spanish Restaurant bar and we asked the staff if they knew a guide who could take us. A Spanish lady came over and she quickly found us a local driver called Omar. He’s in some of the videos. Tourism hasn’t taken off big time in Mauritania and while I tried to help the locals and local tour companies, I found – they don’t really like bloggers, nor want us to help. This post is mostly for other tourists just to show you what you can do in Nouadhibou in a few days. After that, head south to Nouakchott or into the desert at Choum, Chinguetti and Atar.

Here are some videos from my time backpacking in Nouadhibou, Mauritania:

Backpacking In Africa: Full List Of Countries

Posted on January 13, 2025January 13, 2025 by Jonny Blair

Backpacking In Africa: Full List Of Countries

Here are a list of all the countries to backpack in Africa. I put a tick to state I’ve been and the year of my first visit.

Algeria2015
Ambazonia
Angola2020
Barawa
Benin2018
Biafra
Bir Tawil
Botswana2011
Burkina Faso2024
Burundi2019
Cameroon2024
Canary Islands2022
Cape Verde2022
Central African Republic2025
Ceuta
Chad
Chagos
Comoros
Congo
Congo DR2019
Côte d’Ivoire2018
Darfur (West Sudan)
Djibouti
Egypt2019
Equatorial Guinea
Eritrea
Eswatini2011
Ethiopia2013
Gabon2024
Gambia2016
Ghana
Guinea2023
Guinea-Bissau2023
Kabylia
Kenya2013
Lesotho2020
Liberia
Libya
Maasai Tribe2013
Madagascar2023
Malawi2023
Mali
Matabeleland
Mauritania2022
Mauritius2023
Mayotte
Melila
Morocco2017
Mozambique2023
Namibia2020
Nigeria
Niger2024
Puntland
Réunion2023
Rwanda2019
Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic
Saint Helena
São Tomé and Príncipe2024
Senegal2016
Seychelles2021
Sierra Leone2023
Somalia
Somaliland
South Africa2011
South Sudan
Sudan
Tanzania2013
Togo2018
Tunisia2015
Uganda2019
Western Sahara2017
Yorùbá
Zambia2020
Zanzibar
Zimbabwe2020

Backpacking in Central African Republic 🇨🇫: Top 7 Sights in Bangui

Posted on January 13, 2025January 21, 2025 by Jonny Blair

“Ride across the river, deep and wide” – Mark Knopfler.

My Bangor to Bangui story is a wild one. I’ve already chaptertitled it for a future book in my third series (the 200th – 300th country series which will succeed “Backpacking Centurion 0-100” and “This Is The Next Century 100-200“) I grew up in the 1980s in the north down peninsula of Northern Ireland’s seaside coast in the beach city of Bangor. Bangor looks like this –

windsor inn bangor — My homecity from The Royal Hotel window, Bangor, County Down, Northern Ireland.

Walking Rocky Boy the dog on Ballyholme Beach in my home city of Bangor, Northern Ireland

Mum and I on Ballyholme Beach in my home city of Bangor, Northern Ireland

Life took me away from Bangor in September 2003, to Bournemouth on England’s south coast, and further afield after October 2009. Since that day, I never returned to Northern Ireland as a resident, only had a month back there in 2007 (broken leg) and 2015 (relaxing with family). Then in a BANG lettric twist of fate, in early January 2025, I ended up backpacking in Bangui, the capital of The Central African Republic on the banks of the river looking across the border into the Democratic Republic Of The Congo. BANGor to BANGui. How nuts that I am writing a top sights article on Don’t Stop Living about BANGUI before I have done a top sights article on BANGOR!

December 2024 to January 2025 was a wacaday trip, one which saw three visa failures for Central African Republic before we were finally granted the visa just 7 minutes before boarding the flight in. They really weren’t going to let us in! Thanks to Tognama from Gust Hotel (which you will hear/read/see a lot more about) and Desree, who collected us from the airport and is pictured below!

Relief on Arrival finally in Bangui, Central African Republic! Thanks Desree.

“Search for the hero inside yourself” – M.People!

Tognama below, visa hero at the last hour!

Everyone loves a hero. Ours was Tognama!

And our excellent Hotel, Gust Hotel – super review to come!!

Gust Hotel, Bangui, Central African Republic – just brilliant!

Firstly we tried to get the Central African Republic visa from the French Embassy in Warszawa. We filled in all the relevant forms, sent them all a month before our trip, 5th December 2024. They refused us, and were frankly very rude to us. Oh well, shame on your moon…

Secondly we tried to get the Central African Republic visa at their Embassy in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. Our contact Fabio promised the visa would be processed within a few days. We arrived in Burkina Faso on 19th December and left on 26th December. You would think a week would be enough time, especially as he took a whopping 260 Euros off us (130 Euros each) in cash. Christmas time didn’t help, and the embassy’s only guy there decided to go on holiday instead of granting us two visas.

Thirdly, our final attempt was in Ivory Coast. The Internet told us there is an Embassy in Abidjan. But after spending over an hour touring the city’s embassy district, it was clear that the Central African Republic embassy here, no longer existed. We found the building though, and decided not to backpack through it seeking a visa…

Now that we were finally in Bangui, we organised a day tour to see the top sights in textbook style as well as an inspiring trip inland to the wonderful Boali Falls. I’ve only included a top 7 here, this was all we needed and wanted, I’m sure you can find and discover more. But this is the timeshell we’ve been given.

1.President Monument – Faustin-Archange Touadéra

It’s always a good idea to respect the president in a country like this which is a Unitary presidential republic, basically a dictatorship led by the President. Faustin-Archange Touadéra is the current president as of January 2025, and has been in power since 2016. There are many and various monuments and dedications to him. The only one we stopped at for a photo was the one near the airport. Tognama joined us in the photo. You can’t miss it if you are arriving and leaving by air.

President Monument – Faustin-Archange Touadéra in Bangui, Central African Republic

2.Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame

The main religion in Central African Republic is Christianity, at 73%, most of them are Catholics. There are so so many churches everywhere in the country, you will see a lot. However, we headed to the main Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame. A gospel choir sang out eloquently on entrance and as it was our last leg of this trip, I popped in to pray. I didn’t know how long it would be until I’d be in another church.

This Cathedral held the Coronation Mass of Jean-Bédel Bokassa (Bokassa I) in 1977 and the opening of the first holy door of the Catholic Church’s Extraordinary Jubilee of Mercy on 29 November 2015.

Backpacking the Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame, Bangui Central African Republic

3.Grande Mosque

Although, Central African Republic is over 70% Christian, there are still quite a few Mosques here. We headed to the Grande Mosquee, but saw many others. In keeping with the Bangor theme, it’s yellow and blue. Seaside boy.

Grande Mosque, Bangui, Central African Republic

4.National Football Stadium (Stade Barthélemy Boganda)

In every country, I backpack, I always try to visit a national football stadium. Here, we were able to get in to the stadium and dander onto the tracks and pitch.

Marek, Mickal and I at the National Football Stadium (Stade Barthélemy Boganda)

Stade Barthélemy Boganda, is the national stadium of the Central African Republic. It is located at Complexe Sportif Barthélemy Boganda and it is currently used mostly for football matches. The stadium has a maximum capacity of 50,000 for sports matches and includes the national flag in the seating colour pattern.

5.Grande Marche (Main Market)

To put it mildly, this place is nuts. Nuts loyal in fact. The craziest markets I have seen in my life are in China, Benin and Central African Republic. Due to a police and army issue, we didn’t take any photos after a suitcase purchase in a fish and clothes shop, but the market is nuts. More like a story for a book or a different post, not a backpacking top sights post!

Marek buys a suitcase in a fish and clothes shop.

6.National Assembly

While photos should be avoided, at least from our experience, you can still stop and admire the National Assembly. We heard of tourist being allowed inside, but we weren’t interested in that, or anything more. Our driver stopped here, and also at a few other government buildings as well as some rebellion movement place. We didn’t take photographs. Rare for me, but that’s after a scam which I wrote about below.

No National Assembly photo, but here are 3 nationals assembled.

7.View Of DR Congo at Ubangi River

It’s always a beautiful thing to stand in one country, staring at another. I’ve forgotten the number of times I’ve done this. Bangui has one of the most magnificent moments I’ve ever had doing this.

You are in Bangui, Central African Republic and you stare across at Zongo, Democratic Republic of The Congo. This time I wouldn’t be crossing into DR Congo, though I did enjoy backpacking Bukavu before – we backpacked the Rwanda to DR Congo border in 2019 under wild circumstances for a gorilla tour. In fact, on that tour, we scammed them…

Marek and Jonny at the DR Congo to CAR border!

Although we toured this top 7, we skipped some other sights and lost a bit of enthusiasm, because I must note that we used a local lad called Michael/Mickal/Michkal and he’s a cheat, a scammer and a scummer. Here are some photos of him. Avoid the lad. He is even in some of our photos earlier and gave us a fake name. Nuthead.

Michael/Mickal/Michkal and he’s a cheat, a scammer and a scummer

He got us deliberately involved in a £100 scam where we had to hand over that money to the local police and army for allegedly “taking a photo”. We didn’t ever find out what photo it was. They didn’t want to see our photos, or even for that to be deleted, they just wanted the money. The police hold your passports when you arrive in Central African Republic and then, after getting them back, they held them again at a hotel which seemed to be involved in the scam. Ah well, it’s done now.

After that, despite requesting a few specific restaurants to Mickal for our late lunch that day, he insisted on taking us to the Four Seasons / Quatre Saisons Hotel. We hated that place apart from the decent staff and Chinese chef – Michael/Mickal/Michkal then ordered the most expensive item on the menu making sure we paid for it. In a restaurant with no other customers. His meal and beer was 12,500. The entire bill, including beers for Marek and I was 23,000 so his was more than half. Nuthead. You can read about my top 10 and bottom 2 bars in Central African Republic here.

Michael/Mickal/Michkal and he’s a cheat, a scammer and a scummer. Here he gets stuck into the dearest dish in the dearest restaurant

So that was a top 7 for you – it was all we needed in the end, as actually my highlights in Central African Republic were these –

Boali Waterfalls (amazing)
The countryside to and from Boali
National Football Stadium
DR Congo Zongo River viewpoint
Being invited to a wedding in Bangui as the only two foreigners
Trying Bili Bili, a local black market alcohol

Please do stay at the Gust Hotel. Our friend, guide, the manager Tognama is a legend in the proper sense of the word. He sorted our visa, solved our passport issue and went all the way to Boali Falls with us!!!

Cheers to Tognama, proper legend from the Gust Hotel, Bangui!

Here are some videos from my time in Bangui:

Thirsty Thursdays: 9 Nuts Bars I Visited In Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso 🇧🇫

Posted on January 12, 2025January 20, 2025 by Jonny Blair

“Nuts loyal” – this travel blog.

While I’m pleased to bring this unique Thirsty Thursdays for you all from Ouagadougou, please note the real smiles and the amazing people I met in these bars! That is what really happens when you really go backpacking, rather than sit on a laptop in your bedroom like so many wannabe “experts” – First up, quell the fake news from extremists, fake tourists, governments that don’t go backpacking and social media keyboard wizards. Those governments have never and will never visit any of these bars or go backpacking. They are there to fake newsify people. Burkina Faso is open, it’s friendly and it’s welcoming. But I knew that before I’d even arrived here! Get your Burkina Faso visa (link further down), go and visit!

“No alarms; and no surprises, please” – Radiohead.

Backpacking in Burkina Faso – playing football down the park

The amount of excrement I received and read online in the month leading up to backpacking Burkina Faso away, was nuts. There are a lot of online groups, mostly full of rich white “westerners” (I hate that word, but as a northerner, I’m just glad I’m not a westerner) who egotistically scaremonger loyal to fellow tourists wishing to backpack Africa Away. I won’t believe you, or fall for your excrement. Try backpacking Belfast in the 1980s and you’ll get it.

“Don’t you ever consider giving up” – Ace of Base.

Thirsty Thursdays: 9 Nuts Bars I Visited In Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso 🇧🇫

Once you’ve got your online Burkina Faso visa, ignored the fake stories, get ready for the madness of Ouagadougou, where we backpacked a cool top 8 sights. The city that capitals Burky F, Burkina Faso 🇧🇫, the former Upper Volta, is nuts, wild and magical. This was country 230 on my nuts journey around the globe. We managed to get a multiple entry visa and ended up with 7 days here, a 5 and then a 2, after we dipped in and out of Benin to celebrate Christmas down by the beach. As you do in the charmed life.

Then just for a moment, you work your way through some cool bars in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. Here were the 9 we visited, there are many many more, all open, all friendly, all welcoming. We loved it and probably could even have visited more, but time and money is always of the essence. Plus we had to backpack the sights, watch some football, do some blogging and plan the next 7 countries on the journey…

1.The Maradona Bar (aka La Casa / Pasta Basta)

Address: 8FGJ+CJF, Patte d´oie, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

Get your fist out and do the Maradona at Ouagadougou away. This is not just the bar the hang out in, this is your place to stay. You sleep next door at La Casa. In the photo below, you’ll spot Diego Maradona just over my right shoulder.

The Maradona Bar, La Casa, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Hang out with Fabio, the owner from Napoli who has constructed one of the trendiest bars in West Africa right here. The Maradona is the bar at La Casa and is also known as Pasta Basta, for the restaurant part. Ice-cold beers, chill out music and the best bargirls this side of Ballyclare make it a top notch bar. Make sure to tell Fabio you read it on Don’t Stop Living.

As a bonus ball here, on the Sunday, the bar staff managed to play AFC Bournemouth against Manchester United for me on the TV on the Sunday. I had told my mates the score would be 3-0 to AFC Bournemouth but nobody believed me. I asked nicely for the football and they put it on.

This was because the season before it was also a textbook easy 3-0 win to the Cherries and surely lightning couldn’t strike twice? But it did, and the magic was here. Cherries smashed the Red Devils 3-0 at Manchester United away. I celebrated in the Maradona Bar. Brilliant.

Celebrating AFC Bournemouth winning a standard 3-0 away at Manchester United on the TV in the Maradona Bar, La Casa, Ouagadougou

The Maradona Bar also has local Burkinese liquers for you to try, plus a full food menu as part of Pasta Basta restaurant. It’s a top spot.

Local Burkinese liquers at The Maradona Bar, La Casa, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Live music at The Maradona Bar, La Casa, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

It opens at 10 a.m. for breakfast and also has live music at the weekends. Plus the decor with all the Maradona, Naopli and quotes is inspiring for a writer. Remember, I have 10 books out already and many more on the way.

Breakfast at The Maradona Bar, La Casa, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Shout out to Sadia, my favourite barmaid. What a girl…

Sadia and I at The Maradona Bar, La Casa, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

“Hey baby, I want to know if you’ll be my girl” – Bruce Channel

2.De Niro Pub

Address: 8FGJ+CJF, Patte d´oie, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

Are we getting clichéd here by going downtown and backpacking Bobby? The old Bobby De Niro follows in after the Maradona Napoli pub! Some Italian links for sure!

Resto Bar De Niro Pub, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

It might not even be a bar named after Robert De Niro but a wild Italian influence is certainly a thing I didn’t expect when barpacking Burky F. This bar is a trendy spot to meet locals and even play pool, and watch the Ouagadougou world go by, along the street. It’s friendly and welcoming.

Try the Brakina Beer. I always love trying the local beer in every country I am in. Really good, but only if ice cold of course!

3.La Vita Restaurant

Address: Alarmingly By The Airport, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

We decided to head downtown for a lunch on our second day, and ended up nearly back at the airport! For a good rice dish, local bottles of cold beer, live football and a veranda, I really recommend La Vita. Great staff too.

La Vita Bar & Restaurant, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

We had lunch and beer here on our second day and loved it. We went for rice with a mix of meat and vegetables. I’m not actually sure what was in it but this in retrospect was our nicest meal in our time in Burkina Faso!

What was nuts about La Vita was that it feels so dowtown, like you are in the heart of the city then you hear an aeroplane taking off and you realise that this restaurant, and the hotel next door are a mere 5 minute walk from the international airport, which is named after Thomas Sankara, the national hero.

La Vita is round the corner from the airport!

4.Restaurant Cafe Onu

Address: 8F8Q+F9J, Ouaga 2000, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: 800 WAF

This place, Restaurant Cafe Onu was nuts because of Dango Outtara. On arrival here, I immediately met an AFC Bournemouth fan!! What are the chances of it?? Dango Outtara is one of the most famous people from Burkina Faso – he plays for AFC Bournemouth in the Premier League and has notched last minute winners away at Tottenham Hotspur and Ipswich Town.

Restaurant Cafe Onu, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Absolutely wild to meet a fellow Cherry here. Good food and atmosphere but the snag is it is unlicensed so we weren’t on the rip in this one! It is near the National Monument. I really regret not getting the AFC Bournemouth fan’s name and email/Facebook/phone number. If you know him – PLEASE try to get in touch and send him the photos and say “Up The Cherries!”

AFC Bournemouth loyal at Burkina Faso Away in Restaurant Cafe Onu

5.Mini Alimentation Wend Kuni Socogib (“The Loke”)

Address: Where Rue 15.227 meets Rue Yanogo Jean, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

Our local for 2 of the 6 nights we had in Burkina Faso was nuts – it was our cheapest bar in Ouagadougou! It also has to be the coolest name ever for a bar to call your mates from – Mini Alimentation Wend Kuni Socogib (“The Loke”). Imagine this…

“Alright Millwall Neil, it’s Jonny here mate. I’m having a sunset beer in Mini Alimentation Wend Kuni Socogib (“The Loke”) in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso formerly Upper Volta”.

It was in the same district as our hostel, La Casa and we went here just after I played football with the locals down the park. Initially we just went in to get a carryout so we could take it back to the hostel. Then we met a local lad called Omar who said we could sit down and just drink the beer as it was a shop that doubled up as a bar.

Essentially it’s just a local shop really that sold alcohol and snacks and was located near the football pitch where I played with the locals pre sunset. Mini Alimentation Wend Kuni Socogib (“The Loke”) was excellent!

Mini Alimentation Wend Kuni Socogib (“The Loke”) with Omar

I nicknamed it The Loke, but the full name, you can see on the photos is really that – Mini Alimentation Wend Kuni Socogib! We drank in here a brace of times on a street corner watching the world go by…lovely stuff! Plus we met Omar a cool lad and we played football round the corner. Sweet dreams are made of this.

“Where are you when the sun goes down?” – Dire Straits.

6.Le Yacht (Wakanda)

Address: 09bp1087 Ouaga09, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 2,500 WAF

Le Yacht, Wakanda, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Probably the swankiest bar on this list and one to certainly scoff some chicken and beer in, Wakanda came as a nuts surprise. We watched Manchester City v Everton in here and we were the only customers at midday!

It was me, Marek, Jules (our excellent local driver) and Aan from China. We met Aan in Cotonou Airport in Benin the day before and hung out with him in about 5 bars, 3 of them in airports!

The local beer on tap (pression) was 3,000 West African Francs, which was £4 during my trip. Not the cheapest but hey. Also, it is in front of this bar where the famous I Love Ouagadougou sign is, so get snap happy.

7.Farewell Airport Bar

Address: Ouagadougou International Airport, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

As a final hat-trick on the way out, we managed to have a beer with Aan our Chinese friend, and Jules who was our excellent driver for a few days at the airport bar in the front, which allows you to drink in without having a boarding pass. This wasn’t even to be our final beer in Burky F! I didn’t catch the name of the bar so we called it Farewell Airport Bar.

Farewell beers with Jules, Aan to Marek and Jonny

I had a light 2% club Shandy in here for a change – it had a green and white Irish shamrock on it, so I felt the luck was coming before we backpacked Niger.

8.Kayali Cafe Bar

Address: Ouagadougou International Airport, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

We arrived a textbook 3 hours early for our flight but it simply wasn’t open, we couldn’t get our boarding cards yet. We had to wait until 2 hours before it to even check in. After the farewell airport beer with Aan and Jules, Marek and I had time for one more and this bar, I caught the name of it as Kayali Cafe Bar, and oddly had a German beer called Cody’s. Not only were we barpacking, we were beerpacking too!!

We drank the Cody’s (in a can) from a paper Ivory Coast airlines cup!

This meant nabbing a beer in multiple airport bars to add to the 6 city bars on this original post.

9.Airport Bar 3

Address: Ouagadougou International Airport, Burkina Faso
Beer Prices: From 1,500 WAF

A final beer was necked in this joint, past security – which completed a hat-trick – Airport Bar 3 I nicknamed it. We were off backpacking in Niger next!

Airport Bar 3 – Goodbye Burkina Faso, thank you!

Burkina Faso away was so nuts that we visited the airport fource (four times) and it was almost fivce (five times). To under celebrate this, it meant I could drink in 3 of the airport’s 5 bars. Hat-trick nabbed! We finished our last beer and boarded, here’s me backpacking out of Burkina Faso…

Weirdest thing is, we still had another flight booked IN to Burkina Faso on this trip, and could have used it since our visa is valid until March 2025 on a multiple (yes, as many times as we want) entry! However, as I sipped that final sip of that Burkinese beer at Ouagadougou International Airport that day, I felt that just maybe, this was to be my last time in Burkina Faso.

Here are some videos from my time bar crawling in Burkina Faso 🇧🇫: