“Shouting at the world you’ll never change. But it’s what’s inside, you’ve got to rearrange” – Andy Cairns.
A 2014 Jonny Blair once shone his light on perky Moldova 🇲🇩. It was November 2014 when I first crossed by nighttrain into the extraordinary world of Moldova. Memories aplenty, and there did it all go wrong? Sure I enjoyed Moldova, Romania and Transnistria back then, but there was a deeper sadness brewing in my mind, which I wasn’t to know then.
On that trip, I backpacked Moldova and Transnistria having been with the GAWA (Green And White Army) in Bucharest, Romania. We lost 2-0 back then. November 2014. On that trip, a wild one, the southern Republic of Gagauzia was left unchartered as I partied my way back into Romania with Gaz Jonhsen, Chris Kelly and the YPT crowd.
10 years later, Northern Ireland were again due to play Romania away but fluke and so I was there again. Same stadium, same lad, but now single and torn by my world that had been turned upside down.
“In a place where I belong, as we try to find our world that’s been and gone” – Noel Gallagher.
First, of course, do a wine tour and whackpack the sights of Chisinau, the pulsating capital of Moldova. My oh my, what a city, how gloriously underrated. Then, without caring too much about revisiting those sights, it was high time to finally visit Gagauzia and I was doing this just after Northern Ireland’s 1-1 draw in Romania. Yes, this time we had got a draw in March 2024. Before I delve into what I saw and did in Gagauzia, Moldova and Romania, my first article is how to get there. How to get to Gagauzia from Moldova. More specifically how to get from Chisinau, Moldova’s capital city to Comrat, Gagauzia’s capital city. Gagauzia is a separate autonomous republic with its own flag, culture, borders, food, language and people. Here’s the three important dates to independent autonomy:
Gagauz Republic declared | 19 August 1990 |
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Autonomy agreement reached | 23 December 1994 |
Autonomy established | 14 January 1995 |
Before my visit, I had been in touch with local lady Iulia Krupinska, who had helped with a few tips and who I knew online from my time living in Gdansk, Poland. For once though, I hadn’t been online much and didn’t have any direct contacts in Comrat – the travel company I emailed this time still haven’t replied, neither did the hotels, so I decided to do it as a day trip instead and base myself in Chisinau instead. Oh well. My other Moldovan friends, Maria and Lulu were both not from Gagauzia and there were out of the country at the time too.
How To Get To Gagauzia
There were a few steps to get to Gagauzia from Moldova, or to Komrat from Chisinau. I started off in the capital city of Moldova, which is Chisinau. It was my fourth time in Chisinau! I got up early for coffee and croissant near my hostel, City Centre Hostel (very decent location and price).
From the city centre, where I had the breakfast, I knew I had to get to the south bus station in Chisinau. This was different from the other bus stations I had been in before here, so whilst ordering the coffee, I just happened to ask a local lady if she knew the way. This was Anastasia and she told me the exact bus stop and number. Bus 36 from Armeneasca Bus Stop, a mere 5 minute walk away. Sorted!
So from this bus, I was to first head to the South Bus Station in Chisinau from Armeanesca bus stop. I got local bus 36 which cost 6 Lei (27 pence). I hopped onto the local bus in downtown Kissy and you pay the conductor in cash only. No other options. Initially I thought I would be staying on the bus until the end, the final stop. But actually I was to get out early thanks to advice from the lady sat next to me.
Leaving Chisinau, Moldova from the south bus station
Within minutes, I am ushered onto the bus direct to Comrat. It all happens faster than I expected and soon we have left the Moldovan capital behind and are on route to Comrat! I had got up at 7 a.m. that day and by 8.20 a.m. I was on a bus to Comrat which actually had a sign of leaving at 8:40 a.m. on it. It was a typical marshrutka bus, a mini-bus. The type I have taken over 100 times in the former Soviet Union and Eastern Bloc countries. You always pay the driver in cash.
I am told the cost is 70 Lei (£3) and is to be paid on arrival. And off we go. The journey is through nice countryside and I meet a Moldovan guy who had friends in Ireland! Here are a few photos from the journey, I had another coffee on route and I made some videos too. It was very calm and scenic.
Arrival in Gagauzia
Within an hour or so, we have already arrived in the Republic of Gagauzia! As I mentioned, within modern day Moldova, for me there are three countries I recognise. Have a look at this map, and it will make things clearer.
1.Republic of Moldova. Capital – Chisinau (Kishinev)
2.Pridnestrovian Republic (Transnistria). Capital – Tiraspol.
3.Republic of Gagauzia. Capital – Comrat.
So basically, these days, here is Gagauzia on the map. In essence there are 4 parts to it, but I was merely backpacking in the capital city, Comrat.
There is a sign which shows we have crossed from Moldova into Gagauzia, but not yet Comrat, and this is what arrival in Gagauzia looks like.
Arrival in Comrat
Now we had arrived in Gagauzia, it was a short drive to Comrat and the roads and climate reminded me so much of Armenia for some reason. It only took about 20 more minutes to end up in Comrat. A few of the passengers did get out at various points, including the lad who spoke to me. Around 10 a.m., I have arrived in Comrat, ready to explore and now in yet another new country, number 224 on my odyssey!
I have written about my top 12 sights in Comrat in a this post and my lovely Gagauzian lunch at Boulevard Cafe in Comrat.
Here are the videos from my trip from Chisinau in Moldova to Comrat in Gagauzia: