The Long Way Home: How I Backpacked Overland and Oversea From Olsztyn Poland To Bangor Northern Ireland ️

“The tunnel of love might amuse you, Noah’s Ark might confuse you” – Richard Thompson.

The idea of this trip overland/oversea/undersea was an amalgamation of factors. Firstly because recently I got so fed up with airlines. Every single trip I have done since 2021 has had at least one flight delay, cancellation or change. In all cases I lost money and got extremely angry, frustrated and disillusioned with travel. I’d estimate a loss of £5,000 in flight changes down the years, ouch. Secondly I had NEVER been on the Channel Tunnel before.

Another reason was I was becoming disillusioned with life in Poland. Was it time to leave? I packed 4 bags for this trip – one large suitcase (unusual for me as a backpacker), one large backpack, two small backpacks. Was this the first step to a move back to Northern Ireland? As it turned out, the adventure preceded the reason. After the adventure, I realised time wasn’t yet up for me in Poland. More on that to come. My expected route is shown below, though that changed.

At the time I also felt I was done with travel. All the money I lost and wasted to stupid airlines and asshole embassies had left me truly deflated, deleted, depleted and dejected. Then I remembered there is one trip I have never done. Poland to Northern Ireland by land. I have visited Poland over 50 times now, and Northern Ireland over 100 times but never a direct land and sea link between the brace.

Of course some of those were by land and sea borders such as…

By sea – car ferry or catamaran –
Belfast Northern Ireland To Stranraer Scotland
Belfast Northern Ireland To Cairnryan Scotland
Belfast Northern Ireland To Birkenhead England
Larne Northern Ireland To Fleetwood England
Larne Northern Ireland To Stranraer Scotland
Larne Northern Ireland To Cairnryan Scotland

By land –
Bialystok Poland To Grodno Belarus
Łomza Poland To Kaunas Lithuania
Kraków Poland To Lviv Ukraine
Warszawa Poland To Lviv Ukraine
Elbląg Poland To Kaliningrad
Gdańsk Poland To Kaliningrad
Olsztyn, Kołobrzeg, Gdańsk, Szczecin, Poznań, Warszawa Poland To Berlin Germany
Kraków, Warszawa Poland To Don Valley Slovakia
Warszawa Poland To Prague Czechia

Derry Northern Ireland To Muff Republic of Ireland
Newry Northern Ireland To Dundalk, Dublin Republic of Ireland
Belfast, Bangor Northern Ireland To Dublin Republic of Ireland
Middletown, Northern Ireland To Monaghan Republic of Ireland

But this time I made the plan to go through 7 countries using overland, undersea and oversea only and with the Channel Tunnel included for the first time ever. The trip did not run 100% smoothly of course. 1 bus was delayed. 1 bus was missed, then rebooked.

In terms of booking this trip, I only made THREE bookings –
1.Flixbus single bus/coach ticket Olsztyn to London Victoria.
2.National Express single bus/coach ticket London Victoria to Liverpool One.
3.Stena Line single ferry ticket Birkenhead to Belfast.

Here is an overview of the trip and the price.

Monday 7th September 2026.

Country 1 – Poland🇵🇱.
15.50. Taxi from my flat in Central Olsztyn to Olsztyn bus station.
Company – Bolt.
Cost – £4.

16.20. Boarded a bus (Flixbus) in Olsztyn. Ticket check. Passport check. Bag check (not scanned just a size/number check – I had paid for 2 large and 2 small bags).
In Poland, we stopped at Elbląg, Gdańsk, Słupsk, Koszalin, Kołobrzeg, Szczecin. At each stop, some passengers got off and some other passengers got on.
No check on leaving near Szczecin.

The other point to note here, is that I made ONE reservation but had a change in Lille on the same ticket, in order to go from Lille to London via the Channel Tunnel. The bus I boarded in Olsztyn, actually started in Lithuania and headed all the way to Paris. I would be getting off in Lille, the penultimate stop.

Tuesday 8th September 2026.

Country 2 – Germany🇩🇪.
2.45 a.m. Passport check on arrival east of Berlin. No bag check. No ticket check.
Stopped twice in Berlin, then at Hamburg, Bremen, Osnabruck, Essen, Duisburg. At each stop, some passengers got off and some other passengers got on.

Country 3 – Netherlands 🇳🇱.
14.32. Passport check on arrival east of Eindhoven. No bag check. No ticket check.
Stopped twice in Eindhoven. At each stop, some passengers got off and some other passengers got on.

Country 4 – Belgium 🇧🇪.
16.38. Arrived east of Antwerp. No passport check. No bag check. No ticket check.
Stopped in Antwerp and Brussels. At each stop, some passengers got off and some other passengers got on.

Country 5 – France 🇫🇷.
Arrived north of Lille. No passport check. No bag check. No ticket check.
21.00. On arrival in Lille, I got off the bus and was supposed to have 3 hours here before boarding another bus which would go through the Channel Tunnel. This was my first bus change. It ended up being over 5 hours here and everything was shut except the Novotel Hotel opposite and a great local bar called “The Barber Who Smokes”. I had 2 quick beers in the bar, but due to having to cart 4 heavy bags, I didn’t venture far in Lille. I was shocked that the international bus and train station was so quiet and everything shuts down at 8 p.m. Not even a 24 hour shop, cafe or bar. Some hub eh?

A shout out to the staff in the bar – Leonie my barmaid for their friendliness and I was able to use the toilets here to change and freshen up. By this point, I had been on the road for 30 hours.

Wednesday 9th September 2026.

00.10. This was the time my bus was supposed to leave Lille at.
02.13 This was the time my bus actually left Lille at. We were initially supposed to go on the Channel Tunnel, whereby the bus drives onto a train then the train rides from Calais To Diver in the RORO system like a car ferry. However due to the delay we were told we were going to Calais to do a security check and passport control for leaving France then a ferry to Dover in England. At Dover we would do a security check and passport control for entering England. But this plan then changed back to the original plan, though we were all confused. Flixbus didn’t provide much information or updates. Often you have to ask the drivers, or fellow passengers. In the darkness of the night, we often didn’t have a clue where we were.

When we finally left Lille by Flixbus, the bus was full. The bus number was N380.

03.50. We arrived at the port exit for the Channel Tunnel on the French side. This is a place called Coquelles, by Calais. It was so dark we couldn’t see much and through immigration I didn’t take many photos apart from these 3.

But this is what it looks like in the daytime…

There was a bit of confusion here before leaving Coquelles as a tramp with a dog had boarded our bus. I initially noticed it as Lille was full of homeless tramps at night. But the fact he had a dog made some of the customers think perhaps it was a sniffer dog and part of the customs clearance.
4.00 a.m. Leaving France they checked our passports first. No exit stamp. No visa for me as I use two different Northern Ireland passports (one claims to be The United Kingdom Of Great Britain And Northern Ireland passport; the other claims to be an Ireland passport, incorporating both countries on the island).
Then you have to take ALL your luggage to be scanned, checked and sniffed. The security staff and sniffer dogs check the bus in the meantime.
Leaving France took about 30 minutes – the bus was full. The sniffer dog here looked the same as the tramps sniffer dog so we didn’t bat much of an eyelid.
4.30 a.m. Then we boarded the bus again and took all of our bags back onto the bus. The bus drove us a few hundred yards then stopped again. I had expected to go straight into the Channel Tunnel so that the UK/England border check would be done on English soil on the other side of the English Channel. But then a shock.
The UK border check was done in France, on French land!! I can only guess this was to save time or is a nighttime procedure. So a few hundred yards past the French exit point is the UK “entry” point even though this is still France. Here we have to take all our luggage out again. First is the passport check. Then the luggage I scanned. We have now officially left France and are in The UK despite being on French soil still.
There are 2 vending machines here and toilets. The vending machines all take Euro currency only. It was 4.30 a.m. but I didn’t see any shops, cafes or restaurants. Possibly by day there is. We waited outside for about 20 minutes here while the bus was being checked.

Channel Tunnel

4.50 a.m. Channel Tunnel🚆🛤🚇🇫🇷🤝🇬🇧

This was my first time in the Channel Tunnel. At this point, everyone noticed that the tramp with the dog wasn’t here. He had been stopped by the French police and was not allowed to board. 5.01 a.m.Then we got back on the bus and drove towards a roaded area with loads of lanes.
This was the place where the Channel Tunnel begins…

There was another bus beside us and a few cars. It wasn’t well lit and was hard to work out what was happening. There are information boards about boarding times for the Channel Tunnel train. Unfortunately the next boarding time isn’t until 6.06 a.m. so we have another delay. We have to stay for over an hour on the bus in this waiting line car park.

6.10 a.m. We finally get clearance to go into the Tunnel in our bus. It is about 10 hours since I arrived in Lille. The bus was supposed to arrive in London at 7.00 a.m. It is now clear that ain’t happening.
6.16 a.m. In this part of the Channel Tunnel it is not a Tunnel that you drive through. You drive onto a train then park and turn your engine off. We are in a separate compartment on this massively wide train. The shutters at the front and back of our compartment close and we are here in this carriage alone. The other compartments are the same. There was no further bus check after the delay and only a few guards directly the bus.

Our bus is full and I am in Seat 20E the middle of the back row. After the doors closes, a flashy futuristic announcement welcomes us to Le Tunnel. People call it various things – the EuroTunnel, the EuroStar, LeTunnel. I just call it the Channel Tunnel. The announcement is in French and in English. The lights inside this carriage stay on. The walls are yellow and white. The carriage metal exterior is silver.

6.20 a.m. The carriage starts to vibrate and we are moving. It is all a bit surreal. 240 countries backpacked including crossing the England to France Channel over 50 times yet this is my first time in the Channel Tunnel. I enjoy it. I can tell a few other people are in the Channel Tunnel for the first time too. Their looks out the window are those of curiosity. The bus rocks a bit. A lot of people are asleep on board. It’s all rather futuristic and smooth.

6.50 a.m. The Channel Tunnel train stops, the shutters open and we drive out into…England!!

We are in England at dusk, we switch our clocks back one hour and drive up and out of the Channel Tunnel up to the roads of Kent. There were no border or passport check. No bag checks. This is because it was all already done on the French side. Here we are now at Folkestone.

Country 6 – England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿
6.00 a.m. I put my watch back an hour then realise we will not make it to London Victoria Coach Station for 7.00 a.m. as scheduled. This means I will most likely miss my connection. I had booked a flexible bus ticket on National Express from Victoria for 9.00 a.m. As an experienced traveller I thought 2 hours in the same station would easily be enough. I’ve passed through Victoria countless times on tighter connections. It would be tight to make that in rush hour London.
7.15 a.m. We arrive on the edge of London and I recognise a lot of places from my time living in Kent at Dartford. Slowly and snaillike, we pass Bromley, Erith, Catford and later Greenwich. But the traffic is manic and there are roadblocks everywhere. In fact I have never seen London so busy in my life.
8.15 a.m. I check on Google Maps and it is clear that I will not make my connection.
9.07 a.m. Sod’s Law. Gutted. Our Flixbus arrives a whopping 2 hours and 7 minutes late. My National Express bus from Victoria Coach station to Liverpool ONE Station left 7 minutes ago.

Cost – £101. This includes all taxes, the Channel Tunnel, the Motorway tolls and I paid for excess luggage.

Plan B.
I notice there is a Flixbus at 10.00 a.m. to Liverpool but there is not a snowballs chance in hell I am taking that shit after Flixbus screwed me over again. I always hated Flixbus for buying out my much-loved Polskibus back in the day. Flixbus are a poor newbie but sadly there have a monopoly on some routes and it was the cheapest way I could solo-backpack the Channel Tunnel, a dream I always wanted.

9.20 a.m. At the National Express ticket office, the chap kindly agrees to transfer me onto the 10.30 a.m. to Liverpool for only a £1 amendment fee. What a saint after a tiring 3 days so far.

As a bonus, I have one hour here to grab a sandwich and crisps for the bus trip. I had already had a bottle of water and a bottle of Coca Cola but my favourite tourist travel blogging bar The Traveller’s Tavern (opposite Victoria Coach Station) is open and I have 2 blog articles to post so I go in, use their WiFi have a Guinness and now I am finally relaxed and ready for Liverpool.

Incidentally, I had prebooked with my Mum to board the night ferry Birkenhead To Belfast so I couldn’t be late for that. On my original 9.00 a.m. bus, I would have arrived into Liverpool at 15.05 p.m. The new 10.30 a.m. bus is scheduled to get in at 17.30 p.m. It is going to be another sweat to make this night ferry. But at least I am now leaving London…

10.30 a.m. My National Express bus leaves London Victoria Coach Station on time. There is a very annoying immigrant chatting nonstop.
12.00 noon. A 10 minute stop at Milton Keynes. Reminders of the Oasis concert here in 2005 with Mental John, Jody and Millwall Neil.

14.05. A 10 minute stop in Birmingham.

16.10. A 10 minute stop in Manchester. Are you mad for it?

18.00. We arrive 30 minutes late into Liverpool One Bus Station.

Cost – £10.40.
Amendment Fee – £1.

I have passed through Liverpool many times down the years and one of the reasons for this is that my brother Daniel lives there. I had prearranged to meet my Mum and brother Daniel in Liverpool and they were there waiting for me, so the next part of my trip was a lift in Daniel’s car from Liverpool One to his flat in Wallasey on the other side of the river Mersey…

“So ferry across the Mersey” – Gerry And The Pacemakers.

This actually meant going through another tunnel!! This time the Wallasey tunnel from Liverpool to Birkenhead.

I had about two hours at Daniel’s flat to shower, freshen up, get some food and be ready for the next part of the journey – a night boat from Liverpool/Birkenhead across the Irish Sea to Belfast! So I had two lifts with Daniel and Mum. From Liverpool One to Wallasey, then from Wallasey to Birkenhead Ferry Terminal…the ferry would leave at 22.30 and take me into Day 4 of this nutspacking trip.

21.15. We board the Stena Line ferry Stena Embla from Birkenhead To Belfast. We don’t book a bed/berth but we do decide to pay for the Club Class Stena Plus Lounge which is £15. My Mum gets it free as a regular customer. This Stena Plus lounge has a frontal port window view, cosy reclining seats, more privacy and unlimited snacks, fruit, hot and cold drinks ALL night until we dock. This includes 3 types of wine until 11 p.m.!! A bargain to milk which is worth checking out. I got some blogging done, we left Birkenhead on time, I had a Guinness in the bar, I went out on deck and saw the new Everton Dickinson Stadium and enjoyed the relaxation. I lover travelling on ferries having spent two years working on them!

Thursday 10th September 2026.

2.00 a.m. We pass by the Isle Of Man.
6.00 a.m. We arrive in Belfast, Northern Ireland.
6.45 a.m. We disembark the vessel by Double Decker Bus.
6.50 a.m. We collect our bags off the conveyor belt. There was no border check, passport check or bag check.

Country 7 – Northern Ireland ☘️🟥✋️
6.00 a.m. We arrive into Belfast in Northern Ireland. From the harbour we get a bus from the ferry to the terminal building where I collect 2 of my bags. Then my brother Marko is here to collect Mum and I and drive us to Bangor.

Total Cost of Olsztyn Poland to Bangor Northern Ireland (not including food, drink and luxuries).
BoltTaxi – £4.
FlixBus + Channel Tunnel – £101.
National Express – £11.40.
Stena Embla – £40. Foot Passenger.
TOTAL – £136.40.

The rest was walking and two lifts thanks to my brothers Daniel and Marko.

Finally around 9.00 a.m. on Day 4 and Country 7, I can go to sleep in a bed! What a crazy trip…

Transport in order –
Walking. Bolt Taxi. Walking. Flixbus. Walking. Flixbus. Walking. Flixbus. Channel Tunnel. Flixbus. Walking. National Express bus. Walking. Daniel’s Car. Walking. Daniel’s Car. Walking. Stena Line Double Decker Bus. Walking. Stena Line Ferry. Walking. Stena Line Double Decker Bus. Walking. Marko’s Car.

I didn’t make that many videos as a lot of it was actually boring, dark and tiring. I crossed the Channel Tunnel at night so only made one video of it as everyone in my bus was quiet.

Here are some videos I did make: