Backpacking In Gagauzia: Top 12 Sights In Comrat, The Capital

“I follow the Moskva down to Gorky Park” – Scorpions.

On a brave spring day in March 2024, I celebrated an odd moment of freedom here, actually on a glory day. 26th March 2024 to be exact. This was my day of freedom from the world and the disasters of the previous 10 years. And it happened in the most ridiculous of places, after another zany journey. I ended up in Comrat, capital city of Gagauzia! Who does this type of backpacking then blogs about it like it’s the last night on earth?

“She already knows it hurts. She’s living like it’s the last night on earth” – Paul Hewson (Bono).

Backpacking In Gagauzia: Top 12 Sights In Comrat, The Capital

One of the Scorpions so-called “childrens of tomorrows” had entered my life back in 2014 on my first trip to Moldova. On that trip, I backpacked Orheiul Vechi, Butuceni and Chisinau in Moldova, and delved into the realms of Transnistria by backpacking wacaday Tiraspol. Oh yeah?

Breakfast in Tiraspol, Transnistria, 2014

An old school Soviet post box in Tiraspol, Transnistria, 2014

The only backpacker in Tiraspol, 2014

My homestay experience in Tiraspol, Transnistria, 2014

Around that time back in 2014, I never used the word “whackpacking” regularly. It was only when I started hardcore whackpacking of countries like Austenasia, Adammia, Lovely, Podjistan and Uzupis in 2015 when being a whackpacker became my new phrase. Dlaczego?

Hang on for a bumpy ride: Whackpacking Loyal

I longed to escape the over-hyped richboy white western upper class backpacking fakers with my Eastern Northern wacaday mix and recognition of real countries. If a country wants to be a country, then it can and should be. Separatism is a whackpacking forte of mine. I’m from Northern Ireland. That’s my country. I’m not from anywhere else, except maybe “Don’t Stop Living”, which is more epic than that there child of tomorrow will ever be. So Gagauzia was another no-brainer, yet a slow reacher for me.

10 years later, I was finally taken to the magic of this moment.

“Don’t say its like a fantasy” – Kylie Minogue.

Backpacking In Gagauzia: Top Sights In Comrat, The Capital

Plus, travel is an education. I noted that during a recent conversation with Marek Bladowski, my Polish friend who was backpacking in São Tomé with me. We were coming out and off with cities and countries our hotel counterparts had never heard of, let alone backpacked. Gagauzia was one of them. Where? What? Who?

What is Gagauzia?

Gagauzia is a separate autonomous republic with its own flag, culture, borders, food, police force, football team, language and people.

Capital city – Comrat
Population – 134,535
Languages – Gagauz (also Romanian and Russian)
Fleg –

Flying the Gagauzia Fleg in Comrat, Gagauzia!

According to global excrement such as UN, FIFA, EU etc., they class it as Moldova. Not for me, I’m whackpacking Gagauzia. Here’s the three important dates to independent autonomy for quirkaday Gagauzia:

GAGAUZ REPUBLIC DECLARED	19 August 1990
AUTONOMY AGREEMENT REACHED	23 December 1994
AUTONOMY ESTABLISHED	14 January 1995

Where is Gagauzia?

Gagauzia is here, maps are useful sometimes. Comrat is the capital.

Moldova Gagauzia Transnistria

How to Get to Comrat From Chisinau

My Backstory To Gagauzia

Gagauzia was neglected by me in 2014 merely because I didn’t know about it back then!! It was my American mate Nate Jacobs who alerted me of its existence a year later when we were backpacking in Kyrgyzstan!

Backpacking in Cholpon Ata with Nate Jacobs

Fool circles on the brain gave this wild child a wacky plan in March 2024 when Romania would again host Northern Ireland in a football match. I would again cross the land border into Moldova. Except this time, I’d be doing that simply in order to backpack Comrat, capital city of Gagauzia, a real Republic and Autonomous country. I was only here for the Comrat, here for the Comrat! The result is this blog post and more stories for book 17 (or something like that) by the time that turn comes round.

Backpacking In Gagauzia: Top 12 Sights In Comrat, The Capital

First I wrote about how I crossed the border from Chisinau in Moldova to Comrat in Gagauzia. Now it’s time for a top sights article.

Top 12 Sights in Comrat, Gagauzia

Here are my very personal top 12 sights, there are of course many other things to see and do here, but this is my blog.

1.National Football Stadium Stadionul „Victor Mumjiev”

A tad out of the city, this decent sized football stadium had to be on my backpacking list. It has seating for 5,000 people, so its halfway to being a Luton Town cauldron. Epic stuff.

National Football Stadium Stadionul „Victor Mumjiev”, Comrat, Gagauzia

Although officially walkable, I was here on a day trip so got a driver to take me out here and back. I paid him 50 Lei (£2) for a return from the city centre, I was glad of this as it gave me more time to relax downtown for lunch and in a bar.

National Football Stadium Stadionul „Victor Mumjiev”, Comrat, Gagauzia

The seats are red and the door was open so I dandered on in! There was one lad about but in general, nobody was about to bother me here. I was Macaulkin Culkin in Home Alone at Gagauzia Away!

Home Alone Loyal at National Football Stadium Stadionul „Victor Mumjiev”, Comrat, Gagauzia

This is the national football stadium of Gagauzia, the biggest in the country. I flew my Travelling Northern Ireland Flag (fleg) inside and pondered on whether one day this will be recognised by FIFA as the national stadium of Gagauzia. Nice dream. Good luck lads!

TNIF at National Football Stadium Stadionul „Victor Mumjiev”, Comrat, Gagauzia

2.Sankt Ioan Botezator – Saint John the Baptist Cathedral

The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist stands as a prominent landmark in the city centre Comrat, drawing wacaday tourists like me to its grandeur and history. I had to visit and go inside. Its dedication is commemorated annually on January 20th. Although the exact founding date remains uncertain, historians speculate between 1820 and 1840, with credit often attributed to Priest Feodosie Marunevici.

Sankt Ioan Botezator – Saint John the Baptist Cathedral

During the Soviet era, the fate of Comrat Cathedral mirrored that of many religious sites, facing closure. In 1961, it was repurposed as a museum showcasing various artifacts. Despite attempts to erase its religious significance, echoes of the past lingered in the Christian murals adorning its walls.

Sankt Ioan Botezator – Saint John the Baptist Cathedral

The somber aftermath of book burnings within its sacred walls remains indelible, a testament to a dark chapter. Many icons were relocated to a local bakery and met a similar fate in its ovens. However, one icon miraculously survived, rescued by a compassionate local who safeguarded it until its return to the cathedral in 1988. Glory days loyal.

Sankt Ioan Botezator – Saint John the Baptist Cathedral

With the restoration of church services, the cathedral experienced a revival, breathing new life into its halls. Archdeacon Ilian played a pivotal role in reinvigorating the church’s activities and continues to serve its congregation faithfully.

Sankt Ioan Botezator – Saint John the Baptist Cathedral

3.Gagauzia Government Building

Here are the three important dates to independent autonomy for the Republic of Gagauzia:

GAGAUZ REPUBLIC DECLARED	19 August 1990
AUTONOMY AGREEMENT REACHED	23 December 1994
AUTONOMY ESTABLISHED	14 January 1995

I headed to the government building, which is on Lenin Street of course.

Gagauzia Government Building

4.Lenin Statue

Like backpacking in Transnistria, Belarus and Russia, Lenin rears his stony head here. I was here exactly 100 years after his death.

“Take what you need, and be on your way; and stop crying your heart out” – Noel Gallagher.

Lenin Statue at Comrat Parliament, Gagauzia

5.Market Street (Victory Street)

The hive of activity seemed to be on Market Street (Victory Street). Sports shops, a newspaper office, textiles and loads of wee market stalls.

Market Street, Comrat, Gagauzia

I didn’t enjoy the curious “Magda” building, a cheeky reminder of how it all went wrong.

Market Street, Comrat, Gagauzia

6.The Metal Bridge Over No Water

I loved the fact that there is an old school metal bridge next to an actual road concrete bridge over a dried up river. This is textbook whackpacking for me. It’s not far from the winery or the only place I had a beer in Comrat, the petrol station! No sign of Simon or Garfunkel, obviously!

The Metal Bridge Over No Water

7.The Bar In A Petrol Station ⛽️

Having already consumed a hattrick of coffees that day, when I went into the local petrol station near the city centre, I spotted a beer I’d never tried before. The original plan was to drink it while backpacking the city.

The Bar In A Petrol Station ⛽️

Then, I spotted that the cafe bar was actually also a proper bar with an indoor seating area and an outdoor balcony and so I decided it was beer in a petrol station time.

The Bar In A Petrol Station ⛽️

The bargirl even opened it for me and they had WiFi here and I charged my phone here! Glory days loyal!

8.Soviet-Afghanistan War Memorial

The heroes of the Soviet-Afghanistan War are remembered here, as this poignant war memorial, also on Lenin Street.

Afghanistan War Memorial

9.Gagauzian Lunch at Boulevard Cafe Bar

I haeded to the most central and exquisite little cafe bar and restaurant which is Boulevard Cafe Bar in central Comrat – it is right by the main square and park. I was thirsty and hungry and have to say I loved this place and included it in my Friday’s Featured Food section!

Gagauzian Lunch at Boulevard Cafe Bar, Comrat

I decided to go for a Gagauzian dish (Hot Kaurma – lamb, cheese, tomato), a Gagauzian soup/stew and a local Bostavan red wine for lunch. It came with bread and spice. Here are the prices –

Bostavan Cabernet Sauvignon – 26 Lei (£1.17 NI pounds)
Hot Kaurma – 108 Lei (£4.87 NI pounds)
Sherpa With Lamb – 82 Lei (£3.82 NI pounds)

Total Bill – 216 Lei (£9.83)

My waitress brought me a Gagauzian flag as a souvenir to take away. A lovely touch, thanks so much!! The food was delicious!!

Gagauzian Lunch at Boulevard Cafe Bar, Comrat

You can also visit Comrat Winery in the city, for once I skipped such a plan.

10.Central Park

The central park is actually called central park. I had a pleasant stroll through the gardens and fountain.

Leafy and paved central park in Comrat, Gagauzia

Fountain at central park in Comrat, Gagauzia

Leafy and paved central park in Comrat, Gagauzia

11.The I LOVE KOMRAT Sign

Yes, these are becoming rather geeky and prevalent everywhere but since it’s a top sight, and physical proof you backpacked it, I’ve included the I LOVE KOMRAT sign in my list. I was intrigued by the use of the C or the K. But the official tourist websites write COMRAT!

The I LOVE COMRAT Sign

12.Comrat Post Office

I had a quick look but I don’t post postcards anymore. It would have been nice to have posted one to Noemi, *** or ******, but that hat-trick of humans stopped wanting my postcards. Shame, but I’ll win.

Comrat Post Office

No postcard from Comrat, this time 😉

Incidentally, I skipped a hat-trick of sights which some of you might be surprised by – I didn’t go to the famous winery Comrat Wines nor visit Comrat Lake or the Gagauzia Museum. All three, I could have done but this wasn’t a wine trip, the tourist office didn’t reply to me about a tour of the history, and once you’ve backpacked 100 lakes in the former Soviet Union, I had no need to see Comrat Lake (which is behind the football stadium). Thanks go to Maria, Lulu my Moldovan friends but more especially to Iulia Krupinska who is a proper Gagauzian girl, who lives in Gdansk, Poland. They all helped and inspired my trip here!

I grabbed a Chisinau beer and headed back across the border into Moldova by marshrutka, sipping and enjoying this journey of freedom. I chuckled at the “blonda” moniker because she was blonde too, oh that girl.

Goodbye, Comrat, thanks for the memories!