After my time in the beautiful city of GdaĆsk, I knew it wasnât quite off the wall enough in Poland for me. I needed another Polish city with a few less tourists and some new charms. In my first two weeks in GdaĆsk, I took two side trips â first to Gdynia for a food tour and then to visit the sand dunes at Slowinski National Park. But again both places had other tourists. My next adventure was a bit more whackpacking instead of backpacking! Travel was crazy again! #StarogardGdaĆski
Next up I decided to head to the town of Starogard GdaĆski. It was an exciting adventure. Beforehand, I didnât know much about Starogard GdaĆski, but in the end, I loved the town. I even compared it to my own hometown and Iâm glad to be the first travel blogger to properly cover a backpacking visit to it! Such a brilliant visit that I got featured on the front page of the local newspaper here, Gazeta Kociewska.
My Journey to Starogard GdaĆski
To get to Starogard GdaĆski from the city of GdaĆsk, I decided to get the bus, though train is also an option, but the bus seemed easier to me as it goes closer to the town centre of Starogard GdaĆski. There are two bus options as far as I can tell. Both buses have a lot of stops on the way and generally it takes just over an hour from GdaĆsk GĆĂłwny.
- Arrivia Linia NR 51
- PKS Linia 400
Either you get the Arriva Linia Nr 51 bus or you get the PKS Linia 400. To mix things up, I got the Linia 400 on the way into Starogard GdaĆski, but coming back I got the Linia 51. The oddest thing was the Linia 51 is more like a coach â itâs the most comfortable of the two options, but it was the cheapest too! The Linia 51 cost me 6.90 zĆotys and the Linia 400 cost me 8 zĆotys. The bus passed through Pruszcz GdaĆski and Kokoszkowy on route. Oh, I was a little bit tired when I arrivedâŠ
Where to Stay in Starogard GdaĆski
When I first visited Starogard GdaĆski (in 2016), there were no backpackers hostels or even any backpackers, so I checked into the Noclegi Rekord! This is kind of an odd hotel, as itâs connected to the sports stadium and club. It was a perfect spot for me for 3 days though, breakfast and WiFi included. It also has a kind of mini football museum, making it another ridiculously up my street bed location from my endless journeys. Just to update this (in June 2020) I am delighted to say that there is now a HOSTEL here!! The Hostel Famil and I hope to review it soon!
About Starogard GdaĆski
Starogard GdaĆski is a town of about 48,000 people. It is inland but has the river Wierzyca flowing through it. It is in the Pomerania Province. Starogard has been the capital of Starogard County in Pomeranian Voivodeship since 1999, but was previously a town in GdaĆsk Voivodeship from 1975 to 1998. For me, the town has a beautiful name and it was a sentimental enchanting journey here.
Starogard GdaĆski reminded me of my home town of Bangor in Northern Ireland somehow. But I later found out it is twinned with Limerick in the Republic of Ireland! The name Starogard, you can work out â it means âold cityâ or âold strongholdâ in the Pomeranian language. Again interesting as I have been to lots of cities and towns with a similar name â even Machu Picchu translates as âold mountainâ and weirdly again, my birth town is the opposite â its name is Newtownards â the ânew town in Ardsâ. The reason they added the word GdaĆski in the 20th century is because GdaĆsk is the largest nearby city, therefore this differentiates Starogard GdaĆski from other cities also known as Starogard. Literally, as someone learning Polish this translates as the Starogard of GdaĆsk.
These are my top 20 things to check out when you backpack this off the wall gem.
1.Rynek (Main Square/Market Square)
The Rynek is of course the main square and heart of this town. It has a happy vibe and there are very rarely tourists here. Around the Rynek are some cool bars, cafes and shops. There are also two of the churches on this list, plus the Ratusz â the Town Hall.
The square is of perfect size, 107 x 107 metres. Allegedly the Town Hall is connected to dungeons and subterranean ways behind the city wall. Thereâs a little mystery in the air.
2.River Wierzyca
The River Wierzyca runs through Starogard GdaĆski and you have many options to cross the river. There are lots of bridges and canals. I actually was staying on an island â Noclegi Rekord is on a mini island in the city! But you wouldnât really know that when you are on it. You can go canoeing on the canals or jogging in leafy parks alongside the river.
3.KoĆciĂłĆ sw Katarzyny (St. Catherineâs Church)
This is easily the most distinctive church in Starogard GdaĆski, right on the corner by the Rynek and appearing in most photographs to promote the town. The city centre has a holy and pleasant feel and this church gives the place a real peace. It was quite soothing walking past this one every day.
At a guess, Iâd say itâs also the highest building in the city.
4.Parafia Rzymskokatolicka Ćw. Mateusza (St. Matthewâs Church)
The Oldest Church in Starogard GdaĆski is St. Matthews. Inside it has a huge mural and outside a few plaques. I went into this one to pray during my time in Starogard GdaĆski.
The Gothic features decorate from outside the inner forms, with baroque furnishings inside. It is considered to be the most valuable monument of medieval architecture in the town.
5. Kazimierz Deyna Stadium
A really cool yet surprising fact is that one of Polandâs greatest ever footballers came from Starogard GdaĆski, Kazimierz Deyna, an outstanding Poland international who died in 1989. The local stadium is named after him and I was staying beside it! From my hotel room I could see the pitch and there was a huge tribute section to him there too.
In the stadium grandstand you can meet Deyna himself, wearing a Polish national football team T-shirt, holding a football, looking at the pitch and encouraging young footballers who train there! Yes he has a statue in the stands!
Unfortunately it is only the monument to the famous sportsman. It is of life size and it was made by a local artist and put on the grandstand to underline that one of the Polandâs greatest football players came from Starogard GdaĆski, this little known town. I was told that the team that play here, WĆĂłkniarz Starogard GdaĆski are now in the Polish fourth division.
6.Ratusz (Town Hall)
The Town Hall is of yellow paint and red brick and distinctive in the heart of the Rynek. On the gable flies a flag of 1339, the year when Starogard got its coat of arms. Yes, this is an old town.
7.UrzÄ d Miasta (City Hall)
Confusing? The odd thing about the name UrzÄ d Miasta is that it means âCity Hallâ rather than Town Hall and yet there is already a Town Hall in the Rynek. This building is bigger and about 7-8 minutes walk north from the Rynek. Itâs more like a council building but a pretty one none the less.
8.Galeria Neptun
You probably will have noticed that every now and then, I whack a shopping centre into my top sights. The reason for this is I love to contrast the old to the new. Iâm not totally against commericalism of course. I just prefer small businesses doing well for themselves.
Galeria Neptun does have Subway and some brand name shops like H & M, but this Northern Irish dude loved the coffee shops for blogging. Free Wi-Fi, cheap coffee and only a few minutes walk from the Rynek. A big Carrefour nearby gets your shopping needs.
9.Browar Stary Rynek
I did a separate Thirsty Thursdays on Starogard GdaĆskiâs top bars as I did some cool partying here but if you only have time for a quick beer â Browar Stary Rynek is the one! A bar that brews its own beer, has a nice interior, friendly staff, Wi-Fi and good food!
Thanks to Gregorgz, Paulina, Marta and Ola for your hospitality!
10.PaĆac WichertĂłw
Right next to my hotel was this place â at first I didnât give it much notice, but when I read up on it I realised this was an elaborate place that sadly is no longer open. You can only admire it from the outside.
It was built by Franz Wichert in the 19th century. Itâs an eclectic villa with a huge entrance arch and five statues at the front. It is also one of the sights on Starogard Gdanskiâs tourist trail (all of which I âticked offâ of course).
11.Baszta Gdanska (Gdansk Bastion)
You could be forgiven for walking past this and missing it.
It is a relic of gothic architecture from 1325 and was a strong defence point for the old city. Today the bastion defends and presents the treasures in the museum next door.
12.Muzeum Ziemi Kociewskiej
This museum (next door to the Bastion) gives you the history of the region Kociewie, an ethnocultural region in the eastern part of Tuchola Forest. Check out the webpages at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kociewie and http://www.muzeum-kociewie.gda.pl/historia/historia.htm
13.SÄ d Rejonowy
Buildings with character are notable on your walk through the city. This one, the SÄ d Rejonowy is the district court house. Itâs on the tourist trail as well and worth checking out.
14.War Memorials
There are quite a few War Memorials in Starogard Gdanski so Iâm putting them in as one sight here.
15.SĆodka Dziupla
For some brilliant ice cream and waffles, head to SĆodka Dziupla which has tables by the river in an idyllic setting. The ice cream is hugely popular.
16.Beer Garden in Rynek
Perhaps this was a summer line only, but I was able to relax on deck chairs in a mock beach, sip beer and listen to live music in the square. Seriously amazing!
17.Klubokawiarnia Szafa
With the meaning âWardrobe Cafeâ, this is a cosy place to relax and drink coffee. Itâs only a few minutes walk from the Rynek and also has WiFi, good food and serves wine.
18.Parafia Rzymskokatolicka Ćw. Wojciecha (Wojciechâs Church)
This church is south of the town centre and a leisurely dander through a park which also features a statue of Pope John Paul. I mistook this for a Russian Orthodox Church at first due to the shape, but itâs definitely a Roman Catholic Church.
19.Baszta Tczewska
A second Bastion on the list is called Baszta Tczewska. Rather than red brick, this is a white and black building attached to where the old town walls once where.
20.Wrzoskiewicz Lodziarnia Ice Cream Parlour
I hope I have spelt this correctly. While walking through the city centre, I encountered the Wrzoskiewicz Ice Cream Parlour so I went in for coffee and ice cream. The lady working here, Klaudia let me try some beetroot ice cream, which was good! This is probably the first time I have included two ice cream parlours in a top 20 post, but the bars will be in a separate article, this Thursday so look out for that!
- The last 8 have been deleted by accident â I will update soon.
Here are some more photos of Starogard GdaĆski, as you can tell I really enjoyed my time here. I made a lot of new friends here and one of my travel buddies actually hails from a village nearby so it was also cool to check out her town, though sadly she wasnât willing or able to meet me or help out when I visited her town. I had to make some new friends instead, and made a lot of them!! It was so crazy that I managed to get front page in the local newspaper too. Nearby, I also visited the village of Rywald, the town of Tczew , little Kokoszkowy, famous Malbork and holy Pelplin.
Here are some videos from my time backpacking in Starogard GdaĆski:
Beetroot ice cream? I know beets are very common in Polish cuisine (my Grandfather came from here), but this just crazy! I hate beets, but love ice cream. I can only imagine what that tastes like.
Ray recently postedâŠNCAA Hall of Champions â A Look into American Collegiate Athletics
Hi Ray, the taste was brilliant, loved it, definitely give it a try if you are in Poland. Safe travels. Jonny
Hello Jonny itâs Nemanja again, my real name is actually Elliott (I said Nemanja because i didnât want to give away my name)
But iam going to Gdansk on Sunday and I was wondering how long you were staying in Gdansk
Maybe we could meet up at some place or something, it would be awesome to meet you!
Or maybe i will accidently see you
Elliott
Never heard of this spot in Poland, but Iâll definitely consider going there when I get my tour of Europe underway next year!
Hi Nemanja/Elliott. Thanks for the message. This is actually an article about Starogard GdaĆski, not GdaĆsk!! But yes, itâs only an hour from GdaĆsk! How come you are only coming to GdaĆsk for one day? Lots to see here, deserves a bit longer in my opinion. I wonât be around on Saturday or Sunday as Iâm touring Tczew and Pelplin, but Iâll possibly be back sometime next week as Iâm based here now. Tell me your exact plans and we can see if there is a chance to meet. Right now is not the best time for me, but we can see. Best wishes. Jonny
Dear Elaine thanks for the comment, your site is flagged as suspicious by the way and directs to gree fyl dot com so be careful of that. Safe travels to Poland. Jonny
Itâs actually pretty amazing reading such a positive opinion of a foreignerâs about my home town. When you are here on everyday basis, you somehow stop noticing the beauty which surrounds you, and you can see that there are people who would like to destroy it (nearby PaĆac WichertĂłw there used to be an old mill which was set on fire a few times, you probably saw the debris). Anyway, itâs great you enjoyed your stay here and I hope that more people will come here thanks to your review.
Hi N, DziÄkujÄ! Thanks so much for your comment. You didnât leave a name â I would love to hear from you and visit you there in your town. Starogard Gdanski is a great place, so are Tczew and Pelplin, I didnât realise about the Mill â a friend of mine that lives nearby is going to give me some more tips for my next visit. Safe travels. Jonny
Hi Jonny, Wow! I love your photos and your review of my town â I wish I could have met you for a coffee or a beer, and some pierogi, we could have toured the sights together. I saw all your photos of course. If I could rewind time, I would meet you for a coffee. If you ever come back to Starogard to write more stories, I will meet you this time for a coffee and show you the sights. Safe travels as always, Milada
Hi Milada, thanks for the comment. Maybe one day you will realise your mistake, do you treat all your friends like this? What if Luci, Truong, Woggy, Magda or Zhenya visited â would you also lie about a 91 hour a week job in Poznan? One day you will apologise and we can pretend this didnât happen â but you made a huge mistake to disrespect a person you claimed was a âfriendâ (your words) and a popular travel writer. I have been depressed for 7 months because of you. Safe travels. Jonny
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful information on this blog. I love to travel Poland. I am from London and will plan to spend holidays in Poland.
Hi Alex Kim, thanks for the comment. Yes Poland is a wonderful country to visit. I first came here in 2005 and kept returning. Two of my best friends come from Warszawa, but I also love to travel around the country, especially to lesser known towns like Starogard Gdanski, Kuklowka, Biskupiec, Grotowice etc. If you need any travel tips ahead of your visit, just email me, or check out my Polish travel blog here â http://www.northernirishmaninpoland.com/ Safe and happy travels. Jonny