Letās start with my main observation here ā Guatemala City is a breathtaking beast of a city. An absolute beast pumped to the max. The weird thing is a lot of backpackers, and especially luxury travellers like to give it a miss and use the āitās too dangerous says my mateā excuse. Quite frankly that annoys me and it doesnāt wash. No proof and just a lame excuse to give GC a by ball (Northern Irish slang for āthe balls gone out for a goal kick, stop runningā). Those who fly into Guatemala City and make a beeline straight for Antigua ā shame on you. Youāve missed the pumping heart of the country, the cultural capital of Central America (for 2015) and a city which is as diverse as it is dangerous (allegedly). Plus you avoid the hoardes of tourists who flock to Antigua, for no apparent reason. Antigua seemed to me to be a ānothing townā which just happens to be safe and with a load of cool bars and restaurants and old churches. Time to praise GC like I should.
Follow your wandering heart and stay in GC. This is the trendy, arty side of Guatemala with no frills attached. What you see is what you get here ā nothing geared for tourism or commercialism, which sadly doesnāt apply to places like Panajachel, Antigua and Flores. That hat trick seem to rely on tourism ā you know the old saying ātrade your passion for gloryā and then lose sight of your passion. GC has the passion and wonāt let go.
First things first with this beast though ā head to zone 1 to stay as itās just more central to the old historic quarter and choose the cosy Posada Belen Museo Inn, where I based myself for 3 nights. The city is massive and you want to be somewhere in the centre, so you can walk some of this on foot. Francesca at the Posada Belen Museo Inn is the most welcoming host and I loved my time there.
Iām giving you a quick top 15 here on this post, but you can also do the Guatemala City cycling tour with Marcos and see a lot more of the city, including some truly off the wall scoops that normal backpackers would never get to ā Marcos does tours to the dump, the cemetery and the finest coffee in town, if not the world. For now, hereās my personal GC top 15.
1. Parque Central
This is GCās centrepiece. Itās like any capital cityās main square except here there are no tourists. Walk round at your leisure and pose by the Guatemala City flag admiring the buildings all around. Colonial, religious and political Parque Central is a good place to start when walking your way around the capital.
2. Palacio Nacional de la Cultura
The National Palace is right here. You can get inside at selected times during the day between Monday and Saturday. Itās an elaborate building which was built during General Jorge Ubicoās dictatorship.
3. Centro Civico
The centro civic is the name given to the area featuring a roundabout and a load of really important buildings in GCās past and recent history. Take your time to look around ā the Palace of Justice is here, so is the bank of Guatemalaās headquarters and the City Hall.
4. Torre de Reformador
At first glance you could be forgiven for thinking youāre in France. This resembles the Tour Eiffel, but it was built in 1935 and therefore is an obvious ācopyā of its more famous French Tower. You canāt climb itā¦just stop by and admire it!
5. Museo de Ferrocarril
I love trains, and travelling on them. You might have read about some of the train journeys Iāve taken through the years, particularly trains all over China and on my early European backpacking days as well as my train journeys in Iran and Azerbaijan.
Here in Guatemala City the trains no longer run- trains are a thing of the past sadly in most of Latin America, but some places such as Paraguayās Asuncion (my visit to the train museum there) have kept good reminders of what once existed here.
Quite simply the Guatemala City train station museum is excellent. Entry price is RIDICULOUSLY cheap at 2 Quetzals. Thatās around 0.25 cents in the US.
6. Casa MIMA
Casa MIMA was close to my hostel and is a fascinating small museum with a real arty mix to it. Youāll get to discover art and Guatemala City go hand in hand. This city is the most artistic and cultural for miles and miles around it.
7. Catedral Metropolitano
The main Cathedral has already been kind of listed here as itās in Parque Central, but go inside and admire it. Thereās a Black Christ within and stunning designs. Sadly in August 2014 a car crashed into a brick at the front, destroying some memorials on the outer wall.
8. Centro Cultural Metropolitano
This building arches over the colourful colonial streets of the old town, near my hostel. A piece of extravagant architecture which screams at you ātake a photo of me, tourist.ā So I did. I didnāt go inside though.
9. SeƱora Pu
This lady, Senora Pu is a bit of a local legend. Her ākitchenā which is a tiny, cosy restaurant offers some of the best dishes in Central America. Most come away raving about it!! Some of the menu items she has invented the dishes herself.
10. Mercado Central
As with most main markets in Central America, this places oozes personality, diversity and flair. From food stalls to cafes to souvenir shops, you can find what you want here. For a really cheap meal, sit down in the cafeteria areas at the front.
11. Mucho Iglesias (More Churches Than Jesus Could Have Predicted)
Iām cheating here by just putting āchurchesā as a main sight. Actually not really cheating, but basically churches alone could have made their own top 15 churches post. I toured a load of streets near my hostel finding more Churches than I could believe. I bet even Jesus never knew it would go this global. Yes, Jesus was bigger than John Lennon and Paul McCartney. GC proves it.
12. Estadio Mateo Flores
You have read Donāt Stop Living before, right?? If not then youāll need to know ā I live and breathe football. Itās the peopleās game. I just had to visit the football stadium here in Guatemala City.
So I walked down on my own on a hot sunny morning and guess what? The nice officials on the door seeing that I was just a football loving Northern irish tourist, opened the doors and let me inside. I even stood on the pitch, kicked a ball and watched a friendly match take place on the turf.
13. Palacio de Justicia
The Justice Palace is in the Centro Civico zone.
14. Independence Monument
This monument is south of the city centre and we stopped at it on the bicycle tour. Worth a peek but actually in an odd location, away from the buzz of everything else.
15. Casa de Aguila
Eagle House is simply one of many many top drawer art galleries that grace Guatemala City. To find out more about Guatemala City, get in touch with local guide Marcos who will be happy to take you around.
Now what are you waiting for? Get yourself to GC and start exploring! Hereās a few videos to further whet your appetite: