“Down the waterfall wherever it may take me” – Robbie Williams.

On a hot Sunday, in the heart of Africa, in the centre of Africa and in the middle of Africa, we visited the Boali Falls. Welcome to the centre of the entire continent, if not the world. Central African Republic is a breath thefter. This was far too good. Far too good to be real. A waterfall in the heart of Africa, dreamlike, textbook backpacking tourism at life’s most beautiful. Yes yes yes.

Backpacking the Empi State Building, the Taj Mahal and even Belfast’s Stormont just couldn’t compare to this. I backpacked that hat-trick with wacaday aplomb in days gone hopelessly by. Hardly impressive when pitted up against the charm of Central African Republic’s waterfalls. Not even close to this wild beauty.

“Ride the wildsurf until the dawn is ushered in at your word” – Tim Wheeler.

Where you’re the only foreign tourist in sight.

Well yeah except for Marek😅my backpacking mate with whom I have now visited 19 countries with despite only meeting him in March 2024 at Sao Tome Away. We flew our flegs.

The journey to Boali Falls wasn’t plain sailing and easy though. It was at the fourth time of tasking we somehow wound up in the Central African Republic 🇨🇫. A hat-trick of visa failures had Marek and I’s dream of backpacking Boali hanging from a thread. But we did it.

“Don’t you ever consider giving up” – Ace of Base.

The idea here was to backpack the sights of Bangui (the capital city), head inland to Boali Falls and check out the Oubangi river border to two other countries – The Democratic Republic of The Congo 🇨🇩 (which I backpacked before in 2019) and Republic of Congo (where I still haven’t been, or seen!).

We had pencilled Boali Falls into our itinerary some 6 months ago. I had no idea of the magic that lay ahead…it was just an idea. We backpacked the river border the day before Boali, even that seemed tremendous that nothing could better this…

The Road To Boali

Getting to Boali isn’t easy. It’s made even more difficult by the facts that –

1.A visa to enter the Central African Republic is hard to get (as we learnt).

2.Once inside the country, the UK, Irish and Polish governments all advise you not to backpack Boali, nor to venture anywhere outside Bangui, the capital. In fact, they don’t even want you to visit Bangui or the country at all. It’s off limits. But the UK, Irish and Polish governments never backpacked it – they had no balls, they read some report online and fakpacked it. Perhaps scared by the threat of Wagner Group (Russian allies with Central African Republic, Niger and Burkina Faso). Shame on the “UK” government, given that they killed innocent civilians in Derry my home country of Northern Ireland in 1972.

“Sunday bloody Sunday” – U2.

We organised the Boali trip through Tognama at the excellent Gust Hotel in Bangui. Gust Hotel is by far the best place to stay in this country, simply love it and owe all of my blogs on Central African Republic to Tognama, the visa hero! Tognama will feature a lot on here and was even for this special day, our driver, guide and friend taking us to Boali. Wow!

The day arrived to visit Bangui, our third day officially in Central African Republic. We left Bangui by car around 8.00 a.m. on route to Boali – just three of us – Jonny, Marek, Tognama. The journey was magnificent.

The quality of the road was pretty good, especially compared to a lot of roads I have backpacked in Africa in DR Congo, Mauritania and Ethiopia. All along the roadside, people are working away, mostly with wood. Chopping wood from trees and selling it. Selling fruit and petrol are also common. This is a very hard-working country. The people are all working hard – it isn’t lazy that could be said about places like Mauritania and Sao Tome.

The views were magical, the road was better than we both expected, we admired the scenery and the people working in everyday life jobs by the roadside. We passed scattered villages. It only took just over 2 hours to get to Boali! We only had two stops – one at the entrance sign for Boali to take some photos and the other one at Martushi Village near Bangaladeke. A very smooth journey to Boali Falls in general. Brilliant.

Martushi Village, Near Bangaladéké and Cassava Bread

On the way to Bangui, we stopped roadside in Martushi Village near Bangaladeke. Here we saw the extracts from the Cassava plant, which is used to make Casava bread. The local lady here was happy to chat to us in broken French and broken English as we tried to understand how Cassava bread is made, a bread that is non-fatty and one I have tried a few times on my jaunts.

You can see the Cassava plant extracts in the bowl in these photos. It looks like popcorn there, but it’s a hard white substance up close. The locals enjoyed posing with us, but we didn’t linger long.

After that, we arrived at the entrance sign for Boali. A photo opportunity as the magic begins to rear its head.

The Jonny Blair Reminisce

My life came before me…as we neared the Falls, I remembered all those completely wild waterfalls I’d backpacked on my journeys. I’ve seen over 50 waterfalls around the world. You know, waterfalls have a kind of magic, here’s 12 for starters…

1.Saksun, Faroe Islands 🇫🇴

2.Git Git Falls, Bali, Indonesia 🇮🇩

3.Niagara Falls, Canada 🇨🇦 / Horseshoe Falls, USA 🇺🇸

4.Iguazu Falls, Argentina 🇦🇷 / Foz Do Iguacu, Brazil 🇧🇷

5.Kaieteur Falls, Guyana 🇬🇾

6.Jiulong Falls, China 🇨🇳

7.Emerald Falls, Dominica 🇩🇲

8.Agua Azul, Mexico 🇲🇽

9.Wentworth Falls, Blue🔵Mountains ⛰️, Australia🇦🇺

10.Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe 🇿🇼, Zambia 🇿🇲

11.Gullfoss, Iceland 🇮🇸

12.Diyaluma Falls, Sri Lanka

Life flashed before me as we meandered our way through the heart of Africa. Now, I was really travelling. I’d earned this, another waterfall but this felt slightly more special. We area in the middle of the continent. We are actually in Central Africa. We are in Central African Republic!

I considered how other continents don’t have a country named after the centre of it! Imagine if Czechia or Austria were to rename themselves “Central European Republic” or Mongolia, Nepal or Bhutan becomes “Central Asian Republic” – it would be nuts loyal. Here in Africa they have done it.

“Don’t go chasing waterfalls” – TLC.

Boali Village

Boali isn’t just the name of the falls, it’s the name of the village too. We drove right through the village of Boali down a long winding hill. The roads here are worse than the road between Bangui and Boali, but still pretty good. A 4 x 4 car would help. We had a simple Peugeot (The French cloud still lingers) – which had some issues (we’d breakdown thrice this day).

We didn’t pause or stop in Boali Village, for now…

It was straight down the muddy, murky road to the magic of Boali Falls.

Arrival At Boali Falls / Chutes De Boali

On arrival we park the car. We pay the 5,000 CAF entry fee per person (£6.43 in Northern Irish pounds). We are ticket numbers 12 and 13. We expect there were 11 before us that day snd then we see a school group, which was clearly the one before us. The ticket prices are up on a board. It’s Chutes De Boali in French.

We are in the heart of Africa and there’s a heart just after the entrance kiosk, plus a load of flags. I was surprised to see USA here next to Russia, but the UN have a high presence here, strangely so do Israel and Tunisia. The Russia flag is due to the influence here (and in Burkina Faso and Niger) from the Wagner Paramilitary Group. Northern Ireland all over again, I’d have my fleg (flag) too 😉

I’m surprised this isn’t UNESCO. It should be. There are some wood carved statue, a monkey hat-trick and suddenly some bars and restaurants and we are told there is a lodge here too for those staying overnight.

Marek and I start to hear the water falling bit we are of the same ilk; cut from the same stone. “Where’s the bar overlooking the waterfalls?” asks Marek. He beat me to it, I was about to ask the same question. The only questions to follow would be “how much is a beer?”, “is it local?” and the mandatory, “is it cold?”

Beers At Boali Falls – Village Samba

Within minutes we have a beer at our table overlooking the magic. Oh yes. This is a high and we know it. None of our friends, family, coworkers, previous work colleagues have been here. I don’t even think many other travel bloggers have been here. Does that make the beer more special? Actually yes! We head to Restaurant Village Samba, Boali Falls

I’m unashamedly selfish at the best of times and this is the best of times.

Village Samba is a bar built on wood and it overlooks the Mbali River which ultimately leads to the Boali Falls. There won’t be any trekking or hiking here. We’re already right at the waterfalls!

I opt for the local Chill Mocaf Citron.

Boali Falls

The moment comes. We finish the beer and now comes the short dander to the magic we craved.

Boali Falls are sensational.

There are five actual “falls” of water here so obviously you will see all 5.

The biggest one, the first you’ll see on the left is nicknamed BOYALI.

I made up my own nicknames for the other four falls…

1.Boyali Falls
2.Girlali Falls. (to even genders up)
3.Bogaty Falls. (Bogaty is the Polish word for dear/pricey/costly)
4.Bangori Falls. (Bangor is my hometown)
5.Starogard Falls. (Because I knew our Starogard Girl would never ever make it here.

We flung thon flegs. By that I mean “flew the flags”.

Marek as a dual national Polish and Australian gets the brace out to fly high low and proud. As a dual national who doesn’t support UK or ROI, I nab the entity on both my passports- Northern Ireland. I’m a Northern Irish nationalist and separatist. Together our six counties are everything; divided we are nothing and stolen. Out comes the Northern Ireland fleg. Proud and loud at Boali away. Gerry Armstrong loyal.

Marek retires to the bar while I basque in the morning glory. I’m front row loyal to view all 5 waterfalls but I decide not to swim. Normally I would but I’m followed down here by about 6 or 7 local lads. Money walks and talks at Central African Republic away and I’m a cheapskate whackpacker, I ain’t into your money or stalking gimps.

I savour my moment, this is the heart of Africa and it’s glorious. I virtually bring Starogard Girl here, I get my moment. Although my Starogard Girl had blue eyes!

“Slipping and sliding all along the waterfall with you – my brown-eyed girl” – Van Morrison.

But soon, I’m back in the bar with Marek for the next cold one. We’ve conquered Boali without flinching an eyelid.

“Starogard Girl; she’s my Starogard Girl” – Jonny Blair.

And you can still buy Starogard Girl here (This Is The Next Century Volume 2).

Mini Zoo At Boali Falls

After the next beer in the gorgeous location at Village Samba, it’s off to the mini zoo. Animals are caged up. We see crocodiles, turtles, 3 baboons and some chimpanzees.

One baboon comes right up to Marek in his cage. I feel sad he’s in prison. Marek is a calm gentleman. The baboon senses it.

Frm the caged animals, it’s a short walk through greenery with grass and trees to the Liane Bridge…

The Ironic CAR at CAR: Carrick A Rede Rope Bridge to Liane Bridge

After the mini zoo, it’s Bridge time with a sentimental affair. The Liane Bridge, they call it Lion Bridge but it’s bereft of lions (we saw them in Niger on this trip).

Why is this a CAR ironic bridge?? You see, one of the famous sights in Northern Ireland is the Carrick A Rede Rope Bridge, built from mainland Northern Ireland to connect to a steep island to aid fishermen. The irony is not just that the bridges are similar but that it’s CAR –

CAR – Carrick A Rede
CAR – Central African Republic

I’d backpacked that Rope bridge a few times, the Carrick A Rede. Here, this was uncannily similar and I even had the same flag and did the same dander!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is Liane Bridge. It’s a Rope bridge across the Mboli river.

The old bridge broke and is on the right, worse for wear. The new one looks decent. It’s on the left. We walk on it.

It’s way more shaky than Northern Ireland’s wild Carrick A Rede! I do the flag and the walk…

After the Rope Bridge, it’s time to bid farewell ot the marvel of Boali…Then as we go to leave, our car won’t start and we consider just never leaving here. Olsztyn and Bangor seem miles away. Oh dear!

I get out and give it a push. The battery was flat. At the start I thought it was a deliberate scam to get more money out of us, then I told Marek I noticed Tognama had left the lights on while we were parked for 4 hours backpacking waterfalls!

“He lives under a waterfall. Nobody can see him; nobody can ever hear him call” – Noel Gallagher.

I push the car with 4 others and jump in. We’re out of here!

Lunch After Boali Falls

Everyone employed in and around Boali Falls wanted money for everything so this is why we decided NOT to have lunch here. I ended up almost forced to pay 2 wannabe guides at Boali Falls who did nothing. I didn’t ask them to come down to the waterfalls with me, but they followed me like leeches and stalkers. Because of this, after you’ve had a beer and seen the falls, get out of there. We headed to an excellent restaurant and bar on the edge of Boali Village, called Pierre D’Onyx, they even have a hotel…

Lunch At Bar Pierre D’Onyx, Near Boali Falls

We went to Bar Pierre D’Onyx for beer and lunch, it’s in front of the gates to the hotel. This is a trendy wee restaurant, fairly upmarket I’d say and it’s on the periphery of a hotel here. We didn’t go into the hotel, which is Motel La Pierre D’Onyx. The Bar has seats with Onyx written on them but seems to also be called Chez Papa Elie. That said, their Facebook Page is Pierre D’Onyx and that’s what people know it by.

We ordered up the textbook local Mocaf Beers – standard for Marek and I. We ordered up a whole roasted chicken which came with sides of salad, dried then fried apples, dried then fried plantains plus spicy sauce. Tognama has a juice and we start chatting about life and travels!

In Central African Republic, food always takes at least an hour to arrive (except for breakfast at our hotel, which was basically ready for us at 7.30 a.m. everyday). After 2 hours, the chicken still hadn’t arrived and just before this, a chicken walked past us.

We joked that this was our chicken. It might well have been our chicken because about 10 minutes later, our feast arrived!

We had another beer and headed on our merry way, all the way back to Bangui, the capital city and our base at the Gust Hotel. There was another breakdown of our trusted Peugeot 306 on the way back home, but all was good in the end…

Oue car registration was oddly 30 3 as the first 3 digits – my date of birth is 30th March (30/3) so I knew this would be lucky, plus a 74 at the end for Northern Ireland’s leading goalscorer David Healy. Healy 74!

The Twist: We were NOT the only foreign tourists

That evening when we pondered over our trip to Boali Falls, we noted that we had ticket numbers 12 and 13 for the day and we expected we were the only foreign tourists. We certainly didn’t see any other foreign tourists.

There was a local school group in front of us and we assumed they had the tickets 0 to 11 that day. A twist came the following day…

We were at Bangui International Airport the next day and sat down in departures beside a lady who looked like she might be a backpacker. She was!! This was Laleena, a South African/ British backpacker.

When we got talking, we were shocked to learn that Laleena had backpacked Boali Falls the previous day too!! Except she had done it by local bus, wow! I didn’t even know there was a local bus option. When Laleena pulled out her ticket for Boali Falls she was number 11!! She had literally been there a few minutes before us, in the time after the school group and before us.

Marek and I wondered why we hadn’t seen her, then it became clear. On arrival at Boali Falls, Laleena must have been down at the Falls, while we headed straight to the bar for a pre-falls beer!

While we were having our beer, Laleena must have walked past the bar to do the mini zoo and Liane Bridge! We hung out together in Bangui and Addis Ababa airports at the tail end of our January 2025 Africa trip!

Here are the details of contacting Tognama:

[email protected]
+250 791 750 721

Here are the details for booking the Gust Hotel in Bangui, Central African Republic:

Address: 

Here are some videos from my trip to Boali Falls in Central African Republic:

Driving There:

The three car breakdowns:

Liane Bridge:

The Mini-Zoo:

Driving Back:

The Lunch at Pierre D’Onyx:

How to Make Cassava Bread: